CK5
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(80 K25) "Nigel" 3/4Ton of Fun
- Thread starter TreeFarm
- Start date
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I'm with you on that one.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
so I just found a Ruffstuff Y link steering kit in the shed. I think Ill take some of the parts to make a tie rod for the 10 bolt. The dana 60 swap is no longer in the budget for anytime soon.
Do ES2234 tie rod ends fit the 10 bolt knuckles? Im never 100% as to what ends have the deeper taper or not. Just the pitman arm is deeper correct?
Do ES2234 tie rod ends fit the 10 bolt knuckles? Im never 100% as to what ends have the deeper taper or not. Just the pitman arm is deeper correct?
Before I ever heard exhaust bolts on LS engines like to snap easily I removed the manifolds from my LM7, with an impact. Never broke a single one...so my vote is zero breakage.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I hope for zero, the engine has just over 100K on it and spend its hole life in california so no rust.. we will see. I will be heating them up at the least.
Looks like my radiator is going to be bolt in using big block rubber isolators. I need to cut the lip off of the upper mount that the fan shroud bolts to just for piece of mind clearance.
I also made my first cut for my fuel filler. Its all good in my mind, lets see it come out to reality. I'm going to run the stock filler and cap. it will get welded to a cover panel to cover that hole. I will weld on some tubing going 45* froward off the bottom of it. then 90* inboard to the tank..
Oh, and the engine tracking says it arrives in SLC tomorrow. Lets hope I can pick it up tomorrow.
In Michigan they come pre-broken...
367k on the motor, and they've been like this for years.
Great project though! Love the work that's going into it.
-Rob
367k on the motor, and they've been like this for years.
Great project though! Love the work that's going into it.
-Rob
No leakage because your manifold is rust sealed to the head. LOL
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Today has been fun. I drove downtown to pick up my engine around 2. When I got home I quickly realized that gen 3 engines are fully metric. This being a non metric house(I only own old vehicles and am an aircraft mechanic) I had no 10mm bolts to use to hoist it out of my truck. After some research the motor mount bolts are 10mm so I used two of those. That also made me realize the bellhousing bolts would be 10mm too. So I ordered some ARP ones. Once I finally got the engine into the garage. I pulled the bed off so it would be easier to hang the tank and make the exhaust, pressure washed as much of the underside as I could, then pulled it in the garage and started ripping it apart. I got the core support off and the old engine out tonight. Interestingly enough its the original engine to the truck, and it doesn't look to have been rebuilt. Well the deck wasnt surfaced at least since the vin is still up front. being a 207 casting and a M code vin I'm going to guess its a 4 bolt main but I don't care enough to open it up. Tommorrow will be cleaning, painting, going through the wires, and bolting stuff onto the new engine
I always figured I had a toast clutch. I couldn't start out in 2nd from a stop. I would get wheel hop so bad it looked like I had hydraulics. I figured the rear main covered it in oil. This thing is toast
I always figured I had a toast clutch. I couldn't start out in 2nd from a stop. I would get wheel hop so bad it looked like I had hydraulics. I figured the rear main covered it in oil. This thing is toast
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Damn that rear main has been slinging oil for a very long time!!!
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Funny thing is. When I first started the truck it didn't leak anything, it took a few days before I saw the first drop. All of the seals were dry from sitting for the last 20 years and they started leaking more and more. I probably put 1000miles on it and added 10 or so quarts of oil.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I spent a ton of time researching how to mate the SM465 to the 5.3L. This is to document how I did it in case someone wants to copy me. I hope it works
Parts used
The flywheel is a BRUTE POWER/PERFECTION CLUTCH 502776
Clutch is a Luk 04-064
ARP 134-2201 flywheel bolts
ARP 330-2802 pressure plate bolts
ARP 134-0901 bellhousing bolts
GM 12557583 pilot bearing
The Flywheel is for a 2006 6.0 truck with a manual. The crank stick out changed in the 2000 for 5.3/6.0s and this is the correct for the short later style This flywheel will require you to remove the dowel pins for alignment the pressure plate. The bolt holes line up with our pressure plates but the alignment pins do not.
Clutch is for my K25. The bolt holes line up to the flywheel but you need to drill out 3 of the 6 holes to fit the metric bolts. I used a 12/32 bit. In my opinion it is important to use a 12" clutch. you will see in the pictures below that the flywheel has a large center cutout. this causes about 1/2" of the ID of the clutch to have no surface contact. you need to make up for that with OD. Also you could purchase a conversion flywheel from AA or Novak that solves this issue, but its 4 times the cost of a parts house flywheel.
The pilot bearing is and oem LS7 or ls2 part I dont remember. This is the only oem that fits in the outer portion of the crank and not deeper inside. This is important because the 465 input is not long enough to reach the inside. In fact its barely long enough to reach the shallow spot.
ARP bolts are self explanatory. I used Threadlocker Blue 242 on all the bolts as OEM calls for. On the flywheel this not only keeps the bolts from backing out but seals the threads as the crank holes are open to oil on the inside. ARP wanted the use of their lube under the heads so I did that.
Pressure plate got tightened to 600 in-lbs
flywheel bolts gm wanted 3 steps to 75 Ft-lbs, ARP wanted 85 ft-lbs. I did 180, 444, 900, 1020 in-lbs
You can see in this pic the two steps of the crank.
Parts used
The flywheel is a BRUTE POWER/PERFECTION CLUTCH 502776
Clutch is a Luk 04-064
ARP 134-2201 flywheel bolts
ARP 330-2802 pressure plate bolts
ARP 134-0901 bellhousing bolts
GM 12557583 pilot bearing
The Flywheel is for a 2006 6.0 truck with a manual. The crank stick out changed in the 2000 for 5.3/6.0s and this is the correct for the short later style This flywheel will require you to remove the dowel pins for alignment the pressure plate. The bolt holes line up with our pressure plates but the alignment pins do not.
Clutch is for my K25. The bolt holes line up to the flywheel but you need to drill out 3 of the 6 holes to fit the metric bolts. I used a 12/32 bit. In my opinion it is important to use a 12" clutch. you will see in the pictures below that the flywheel has a large center cutout. this causes about 1/2" of the ID of the clutch to have no surface contact. you need to make up for that with OD. Also you could purchase a conversion flywheel from AA or Novak that solves this issue, but its 4 times the cost of a parts house flywheel.
The pilot bearing is and oem LS7 or ls2 part I dont remember. This is the only oem that fits in the outer portion of the crank and not deeper inside. This is important because the 465 input is not long enough to reach the inside. In fact its barely long enough to reach the shallow spot.
ARP bolts are self explanatory. I used Threadlocker Blue 242 on all the bolts as OEM calls for. On the flywheel this not only keeps the bolts from backing out but seals the threads as the crank holes are open to oil on the inside. ARP wanted the use of their lube under the heads so I did that.
Pressure plate got tightened to 600 in-lbs
flywheel bolts gm wanted 3 steps to 75 Ft-lbs, ARP wanted 85 ft-lbs. I did 180, 444, 900, 1020 in-lbs
You can see in this pic the two steps of the crank.
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Justin, No
8.1!! FTW!
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Well the engine is in, turns over, and fuel pump primes, so close to starting up. I ended up having to take the hood off. The new engine was just too tall slung with the intake on. I also got the PCM mounted and wired, the battery cables hooked up, and the throttle pedal mounted. I still need to loom the wires, find a spot to put the throttle pedal computer thingy, wire the tach/fans, finish the AC, and make the exhaust. Other than that its bolting the truck back together now. I was not expecting the engine to be so close to the firewall. I have 1/4" between the heads and the lip on the firewall. Glad I put ORD comp motor mounts and a poly trans mount in it. Hopefully the engine wont migrate back any.
Oh and the throw out bearing isnt long enough. I may be able to use the linkage adjuster to get it good enough, or I may have to pull the trans and put a longer one in
Oh and the throw out bearing isnt long enough. I may be able to use the linkage adjuster to get it good enough, or I may have to pull the trans and put a longer one in
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Nice, what pedal did you use?
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
GM PN 15107594. Its what came out of the 06 Yukon that the engine and everything else came from
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Exhaust is almost done. I hate exhaust work. I always end up doing a bunch of pie cuts because I want it to go places bends cant go. I also was not expecting the passenger side header to dump right into the starter wiring.
