CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
(80 K25) "Nigel" 3/4Ton of Fun
- Thread starter TreeFarm
- Start date
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Productive day today. Put another 30 or so miles on the truck. I'm getting used to the clutch and throttle, I think I can live with this throw out bearing for now. Ill just make sure to get a longer one next time something is out. I got my AC lines crimped and the trinary switch wired up. Now I just need to vacuum down and service the AC. Hopefully I don't have any leaks. Driving around I have yet to have a fan come on. It stays at 190* when I'm moving, got up to 195* in the drive through. I also did my first coolant drain and fill. one more straight water and then I will fill it with antifreeze.
Really the only things I have left right now are to put in the tie rod I made, align it, and get the exhaust done muffler back.
Really the only things I have left right now are to put in the tie rod I made, align it, and get the exhaust done muffler back.
We do A/C stuff at work. Not sure how well it would test depending on the temp.
Firestone in Roy
Firestone in Roy
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Did about 20 miles on the highway and then another 30 or so on the back roads around town ranging from 20-45 mph. Coolant seems to sit around 180-185 when moving. Seems a bit low to me but I am measuring from the rear of the passenger head. I'm not sure how much difference that sees from the ecm probe at the front of the driver head. I suppose I can hook up the scan tool.
Mount it in front of the radio opening?
185-190 is pretty typical.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Broke 1000 miles on the truck this weekend. Been doing great on the freeway, around town, and in the mountains. So far with some sloppy counting I’m gettinf around 15mpg. I’m doing my first full to empty run now so we will see actual numbers. I took it to have he AC serviced the other day. After arguing with the service writer convincing her that they can in fact service it and it wasn’t some rocket science she agrees to ask the tech if he was willing to do it. He about lost his shit popping the hood, and called all the other techs over to check it out. That was pretty cool Haha. Now I have nice 38* air just in time for winter. I’m more than happy with this truck and only a few issues to take care of.
Looks like I have a slow leak from the oil pan gasket. About a drip a day once it builds up enough to reach the low point, that takes about a week. It’s coming out from one of the oil pan bolts. I’m going to try pulling it and putting some sealer on it before I break down and pull the pan. I need to re seal the 205 too, that’s about a drip a day.
The cab is so noisy on the freeway. I already replaced door to cab rubber and insulated the floor and rear wall. I just ordered window run rubber and from precision and while I’m in there I’ll insulate the door. Seems like all my noise is coming from the windows.
I also ordered a 79 repop grille from LMC. I’m confused on if/how it will fit the 80 front end. I thought they were the same but apparently I need to have the matching chrome trim form the year for the grill. I guess we will see. Last resort I’ll order one of those ugly billet bar grilles. It’ll give me the added security of nobody being able to open my hood and steal parts. not even me.
The throw out bearing is too short. I was able to adjust it so that it works good. Good enough that it’s not an issue but the clutch fork is not in its comfort zone. The Long GM TOB shoud take care of that. Whenever I pull the engine or trans again I’ll toss one in.
Last thing is one of my tcase shifters vibrates on the trans tunnel when the rpm and load is just right. I guess I didn’t cut the hole big enough. I’ll have to open it up a bit.
Looks like I have a slow leak from the oil pan gasket. About a drip a day once it builds up enough to reach the low point, that takes about a week. It’s coming out from one of the oil pan bolts. I’m going to try pulling it and putting some sealer on it before I break down and pull the pan. I need to re seal the 205 too, that’s about a drip a day.
The cab is so noisy on the freeway. I already replaced door to cab rubber and insulated the floor and rear wall. I just ordered window run rubber and from precision and while I’m in there I’ll insulate the door. Seems like all my noise is coming from the windows.
I also ordered a 79 repop grille from LMC. I’m confused on if/how it will fit the 80 front end. I thought they were the same but apparently I need to have the matching chrome trim form the year for the grill. I guess we will see. Last resort I’ll order one of those ugly billet bar grilles. It’ll give me the added security of nobody being able to open my hood and steal parts. not even me.
The throw out bearing is too short. I was able to adjust it so that it works good. Good enough that it’s not an issue but the clutch fork is not in its comfort zone. The Long GM TOB shoud take care of that. Whenever I pull the engine or trans again I’ll toss one in.
Last thing is one of my tcase shifters vibrates on the trans tunnel when the rpm and load is just right. I guess I didn’t cut the hole big enough. I’ll have to open it up a bit.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
The truck has a grille now. I got a black one from LMC for a 79 Chevy. I found out the trim pieces they said I needed weren’t for the surround but for the cross bars in the grille itself. Or at least that’s the only thing I can see it fitting. Maybe Chevys have different chrome up front or its for a model that doesn't have the turn signals as part of the headlight bezel . Either way it fits pretty good and is almost even. Good enough for the rest of the truck
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Put my window rubber in today along with insulating the inside of the door skin. Took about an hour a door. Hopefully it will quiet down the noise on the freeway. It would be nice to be able to hold a conversation.
Where did you get the seals? I’m contemplating doing mine (even though my doors suck) so the winter is more pleasant and less noisy.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I bought directly from Precision Replacement Parts. I found ordering from places other than LMC they use Precision so I just went to the source. I have their rear window rubber, hood cowl seal and now the window run and wipers. They all fit awesome and went in easy. I cant comment on their vent window stuff as I didn't rebuild mine, I do know they sell them or offer a rebuild service if you send in the window. They also have a youtube channel where they show how to install all their crap
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
Filled up the gas tank earlier today. Looks like 15.2mpg out of 50/50 street and highway. I’m happy with it. Also decided to take a drive up in the mountains. Here’s after getting "stuck" and tuning around. Everyone can talk all the shit they want about maxxtraxx. How they are for mall crawlers and overlanders. They are a hell of a lot more convenient than pulling winch line or digging out with a shovel.
You guys got a lot of snow up there already. We just got our first white stuff in the mtns sat night down here by Price. Prob disappear right away I'm sure.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
The snow is confined to the mountains currently. It will be a bit longer until it makes it down to town.
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
I have a few questions for everyone. Do you guys have the part numbers for my driveshaft u joints. My front shaft has some cracked caps and the rear don’t seem bad but I have a bit of vibration I’m tracking down. Spicer preferably unless something is better. I have a one piece rear drive shaft.
Also, has anyone done weld on headlocks on the factory 16.5 safety bead Wheels? I’m considerig it to keep the stock hub caps since I can’t seem to find any 17” Wheels that will take the hubcaps and 16” tire selection is going the way of 16.5. I’m torn between buying the pvc inserts and putting in trail worthy fabs wheel centers for my H1s and trying to lighten them up/get rid of the wheel spacers. Or beadlocking the stock Wheels, painting them white and restoring the hub caps.
Also, has anyone done weld on headlocks on the factory 16.5 safety bead Wheels? I’m considerig it to keep the stock hub caps since I can’t seem to find any 17” Wheels that will take the hubcaps and 16” tire selection is going the way of 16.5. I’m torn between buying the pvc inserts and putting in trail worthy fabs wheel centers for my H1s and trying to lighten them up/get rid of the wheel spacers. Or beadlocking the stock Wheels, painting them white and restoring the hub caps.
I am eventually going to do them on my 16" wheels. I will be going with these http://totalmetalinnovations.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=7 cuz they have this fancy anti-coning thingy and it seems a lot of other people run into issues with the bolt on part coning in when they torque the bolts. They offer them for 16.5s too.
Oh and see @Greg72 for 17" hub cap worthy wheels.
Oh and see @Greg72 for 17" hub cap worthy wheels.
