CK5
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(80 K25) "Nigel" 3/4Ton of Fun

The replacement radiator just showed up. Summit sent me one out when I called them yesterday. I will have to keep researching a long term solution but for now I will just keep swapping in these Griffins. They flat out cool, ill give them that, This thing almost never sees above 195 unless I'm trying to make it hot.

Now, lets talk front suspension. I'm not really sure how I want to handle it. Currently I am on stock leafs with a 1" AAL pushing the axle forward 1" and I added a leaf to the pack giving me 1" So 2" total lift with 1" forward. I also extended the bump stops .75" Ride is fine at speed but slow speed bumps or gutters I hit the bumps. I had no rub with the 37"s with just the 1" AAL and stock bumps but I added the leaf and ford bumps to get the diff out of my ORD crossmember.

The front leafs at the very least need new bushings and the truck sags noticeably to the driver side. 1/4" measured at the frame rail. Looks like a foot if you just look at the truck. Another problem is I need 2" spring lift to clear crossover, so whats the point of rebuilding the stock springs if I cant upgrade with them. I have two options in my mind. I would like to get the front to 3" total lift. This would level out the truck with the stock rear suspension that I plan to keep for now

Option 1. 2" ez ride lift springs and my AAL pushing the axle forward. This will clear crossover steering and keep my axle forward at minimal lift. The downside to this is I'm still on stock length springs and still have a 1" block in the front. $350 for the springs, whatever I spend on hardware.

Option 2. 52" swap. B52 brackets and home made shackles. Keep the shackle in the stock place and mount the spring hanger 3-4" forward of OEM. this will push my axle forward something like 1.5-2.5" depending on where I mount the spring hanger. I will pull and add leafs to the pack to get me down to 3" of lift I read some people don't like the body roll of 52"s I have never been concerned about body roll before in my rigs but I could always add a sway bar. Pros, way flexier, all spring lift. Cons, Body roll, more work, potentially need longer drive shaft. $200 for the B52s plus bushing and hardware to rebuild the springs and maybe a driveshaft.
 
If a 1/4" lean bugs you don't go 52's

Its not that big of a deal, its not like anything else on these trucks is straight, hell the axle is offset 1" to the driver. I just figured if I was in there maybe the springs would fix it.
 
Just don't be surprised if you lean an inch. The way you drive the truck I wouldn't do 52's, just my opinion.....
 
Bumper didn’t turn out like I was hoping. I was planning on using the stock mounts, just cutting them out of the bumper and moving them. This was great in theory until I tried it. It would work but I have no way of getting to the bolts to actually mount it. The license plate recess hits the tank crossmember and that seals up the end of the frame rails where the bolts need to be. It also cant go as far forward as I was hoping. Looks like I will be building a bumper sooner than I was planning. I have it stuck on there to keep me legal, I just won’t be pulling anything with it anytime soon.

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Knowing how tight the K5 tank is on a shortbed (which is only 6" shorter behind the wheel opening) I'm not surprised how tight the bumper and tank were.

Looks good
 
Just found this thread. I like it a lot.

As for wheels, I recommend just running 16.5”x6.75” OEM wheels with safety beads.

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I have no issues losing by beads even at 6 psi.

Martin
 
Just found this thread. I like it a lot.

As for wheels, I recommend just running 16.5”x6.75” OEM wheels with safety beads.

View attachment 253468

I have no issues losing by beads even at 6 psi.

Martin

I've read through your thread a few times before. I still have my stock 16.5 safety beads in my shed, though I dont know the width on them off the top of my head. My hubcaps arent as clean as yours either. I suppose I can spoon the tires on and try them out. Not like I cant go back. Well I'll never get the run flat back in the tire but I can just buy the PVC inserts. It would allow me to try and sell the H1s to offset the cost of re centered wheels down the road if I want to go back.

The cuts were straight but the measurements were off haha. I had nothing straight to measure off of so I just made do. Did the outside cuts the best I could and based the inside cuts off of those. they are about 1/4" off side to side but the bed length ended up straight enough.

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Got the stock wheels broke down. They are in a lot better shape than I was expecting. Only one has a little bit of rust on the lip. Looks like they are 6.75 wide. I ordered up some .38G airsoft BBs and plan on 10oz in each wheel to start.

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