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80 k5 - frame off 6.0 LS swap
- Thread starter drew4x4
- Start date
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
hey man, so the issue is really with the height of the front of the motor not clearing it over top of the stock cross member? obviously as you push the engine foward, the oil pan becomes deeper... running into the top of the cross member rather then the back of it?
the stock cross member is arched foward, while the ord tubular is arched to bottom directly underneith the engine mounts, probably 3" or so towards the back of the truck. if the issue is height, the ord engine mount will give you a lot more clearance there. the only issue now with the ord engine mount (which i've already ordered) is me trying to push my engine foward to make room for the 4l60e and the lq4 truck oil pan running into the rear of it.
should have some room to work with though, hopefully, judging from clile's swap pics.
sweet.
kota, if you can, do it cheaply! don't buy a bunch of nice **** like efans... braided stainless hoses... aluminum radiators... digital guages.. $$$! its okay though. my budget is from my last deployment, so i'm doin good.
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Which motor mounts are you plaining on using. Does the ORD crossmember let you use the factory motor mounts?
Not sure if Drew you know about this but the cross member has some interference.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277324&page=17
check this out for the fix.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277324&page=17
check this out for the fix.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
i am planning on using an almost identical setup... ord big block engine cross member, ord competition style lower mounts, dirty dingo upper engine mounts.
from what my understanding, he had issues getting the cross member in, but once it was in, with ord lower engine mounts, the ls3 moved backwards and fowards as far as the dirty dingo mounts would let it.
from what my understanding, he had issues getting the cross member in, but once it was in, with ord lower engine mounts, the ls3 moved backwards and fowards as far as the dirty dingo mounts would let it.
Do you have the truck or can oil pan? How long until you set the engine in? I'll be watching this I need to order some parts and I'm hoping I can spare the change for the ord cross member
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
truck. my 02 lq4 is out of Yukon Denali.
I've got a lil while. sorry dude. Waitin on my ord lower mounts to come in, need to scrub/clean/paint the frame and engine bay, pull the old fuel system, and the old chassis wiring harness.
I've got a lil while. sorry dude. Waitin on my ord lower mounts to come in, need to scrub/clean/paint the frame and engine bay, pull the old fuel system, and the old chassis wiring harness.
It will be weeks or maybe a month before I order something. Just trying to get my ducks in order before I tackle everything.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
hey, what is the optimal operating temp for an 02 lq4?
i ordered a duel efan relay from painless that'll run the fans at 195f+, and then shut off once it cools to 185... should be good?
drew
i ordered a duel efan relay from painless that'll run the fans at 195f+, and then shut off once it cools to 185... should be good?
drew
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210 fully warmed should be the ticket.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
two questions,
1) ord twin stick for an np205.... what exactly does it do? does it just make it easier to shift the np205 from gear to gear?
2) whats the best way to go about cleaning and painting a frame? i can't pull it outside to pressure wash.. so what sort of sand paper should i start with? good primer? paint? can i get a good job with rattle cans?
thanks
drew
1) ord twin stick for an np205.... what exactly does it do? does it just make it easier to shift the np205 from gear to gear?
2) whats the best way to go about cleaning and painting a frame? i can't pull it outside to pressure wash.. so what sort of sand paper should i start with? good primer? paint? can i get a good job with rattle cans?
thanks
drew
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
mmmmmmm...... rebuilt transfer case. so clean.
also i ordered a frame paint kit from eastwood.
also i ordered a frame paint kit from eastwood.
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Case looks good.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
trying to get to the bolts on top of the frame, hidden behind a heat shield, holding the chassis wiring harness in..... decided to go with the ord 1" body lift.
it'll make it easier to rehook all this up.... and keep the frame clean..... and replace the body mounts.......
yuuuup.
it'll make it easier to rehook all this up.... and keep the frame clean..... and replace the body mounts.......
yuuuup.
doesn't look like anyone answered your questions, so here ya go.
twin sticking is so that you can shift the front and rear axles into into gear independently. this is useful when you want to pull with your front wheels only.
afa painting goes, thats a ryoken question. probably answered in the paint thread started by chief brody in the garage forum.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
thanks man. i appreciate it.
i ordered a twin stick kit from ord today.
dropped my cross over tie rod, drag link, engine cross member, fuel tank, and skid plate off to get linex'd.
and i may end up just rebuilding my tilt column based on yalls advice. read up on rebuilding the column, might be doable. i have already thrown away the stupid 8" grant steering wheel it had on it before. going back to the large stock wheel.
inside, its gunna be a mostly resto'd classic look. other then the digital guages. and linex'd floor.
i ordered a twin stick kit from ord today.
dropped my cross over tie rod, drag link, engine cross member, fuel tank, and skid plate off to get linex'd.
and i may end up just rebuilding my tilt column based on yalls advice. read up on rebuilding the column, might be doable. i have already thrown away the stupid 8" grant steering wheel it had on it before. going back to the large stock wheel.
inside, its gunna be a mostly resto'd classic look. other then the digital guages. and linex'd floor.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
two questions.
should i put a fuel filter on a return line? my return line is going to run the entire length of the truck.
the body mount on an 80 k5, rear most body mount in front of the rear axle. the last real actual body mount. its spinning. i've got about a half rotation of spin in it.
is it a captured bolt at the top that i broke? or is that flex normal? its got me concerned cause i have heard something about cutting the floor out and havin to weld the bolt in at the top....
should i put a fuel filter on a return line? my return line is going to run the entire length of the truck.
the body mount on an 80 k5, rear most body mount in front of the rear axle. the last real actual body mount. its spinning. i've got about a half rotation of spin in it.
is it a captured bolt at the top that i broke? or is that flex normal? its got me concerned cause i have heard something about cutting the floor out and havin to weld the bolt in at the top....
I'm curious also about painting the frame, anybody got any tips?
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
i bought some 80 grit, and some 180 grit sand paper, and a 3-step eastwood frame kit.
in between the sand paper, i plan on doing as much degreasing as i can with engine cleaner and these solvent wipes i found at autozone.
in between the sand paper, i plan on doing as much degreasing as i can with engine cleaner and these solvent wipes i found at autozone.
I dont think a filter on a return line is a good idea, but im not positive, I dont think they are really all that pressurized
