And thermostatically controlled to boot. I think i'll squeeze a filter in there as well.
CK5
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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.
- Thread starter cybrfire
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- squarebody-avalanche
And thermostatically controlled to boot. I think i'll squeeze a filter in there as well.
Sounds like a lot of unnecessary complication and money... why run a cooling pump?
Jimbo*
1/2 ton status
The ZF-6 used in the Ford super duty series have an internal pump to a cooler next to the radiator; not sure if the Dodge/Cummins 6 speeds do also
The ZF-6 last a lot longer than the ZF-5 without a cooler
Past issues lol.
I like the idea of a thermostatically controlled cooler. Never have to worry about operating temps
Dang simple considering the super high tech super high dollar pump lol
Is fluid temp really a problem on the NV4500?
It was in his last one
Kert whats your plans for cross-members? Also it looks like you joined the frames at the Fush mount? I'm thinking I will due round tube for most of the cross members except the rear body mount.
Just about every tranny out there can run to hot and shorten the life span. The pump is less than $100, already have the cooler, the rest is some soft lines and some steel line. If it extends the life of the trans, i'll consider it a worth while investment.
Pump really isn't to bad. It's a constant duty low amp draw unit designed for cooling rear end gears in race cars. I think it'll work good in this application as well.
It was in his last one
Kert whats your plans for cross-members? Also it looks like you joined the frames at the Fush mount? I'm thinking I will due round tube for most of the cross members except the rear body mount.
My NV4500 used to get scorching hot. Unfortunately I never hit it with the IR temp gun after a tow so I don't have a number to put with "scorching."
I intentionally put the shackle eye hanger into my templates specifically for this purpose. Consider them my zero, zero, zero. From here on out, everything will be measured in to place from the center of that bushing on each side. The tube that goes across there now is just another piece of 2" x .250 wall tubing with a 1.5" diameter pin holding it in place. Just helping me align the sides.
The rear most crossmember will be a 2"x4" rect. tube. Pretty much know where that needs to go. The rest will be designed as needed. Some temporary's will be put in place for now.
Back to the cooler for a minute.
It's not a mission critical item. So, if this were to fail on the road.. OH WELL! What would be unacceptable is a leak. That could potentially threaten the transmission which is of course mission critical. I'll be using the highest quality tubing and lines I can get my hands on.
I love this thread, 8 pages and the frame isn't done yet... imagine how many pages/posts it will take to reach the "end" or at least running/driving.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Its definitely gonna be one of "those"
I only have 2 pages... Kert will get it done a lot sooner than most of us all while running a fab shop to supply the rest of us with parts.
Transmission wiring harness is finished and finally got rid of the last unused electrical connections on the engine. The fuel filter heater thing is gone.
We're starting to develop a plan for mounting the York and the auxiliary alternator/welder now.
We're starting to develop a plan for mounting the York and the auxiliary alternator/welder now.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sure is going to he a beastly short box!
All the parts in place for the wheels now. Monday another trip through sandblast and then off to powdercoaters.
Rear axle is in the shop. Bearings, brakes, diff covers, so on and so forth.
man your flying on this thing!!!!
Are those PVC's from Trail Worthy Fab?
Thank you sir!
Yep, sure are. Guys over there are good to work with. Talked about some options and they were here in short order. Also got some new O-rings from them and some flange nuts. Flange nuts, i'm sure I could have come up with, but for the price, they saved me the leg work.
I see a thread pop up from time to time about guys wanting to make the PVC piece themselves. This is one of those products, even if you have the equipment to do it, its not worth your time. Sourcing the material kills it right off the bat.
Not as heavy as our standard recenter. I shaved the weight on these pretty good.
Our standard wheel center is 3/8" thick. These are 1/4". The gussets have a bunch of speed holes in them. I'll have to weigh one of them.
Was just wondering if punching holes in the PVC piece would make it to weak....
If you are putting speed holes in gussets, you can probably remove the gusset all together and be nearly as strong. Stamped centers would be the lightest and stronger than plate thanks to the shape.
