You may find the drive shaft and 4 inch exhaust pipe may want to occupy the same space on the passenger side.
CK5
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80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.
- Thread starter cybrfire
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- squarebody-avalanche
Wait...what engine/tranny combination are you running?
The first gen dodge/cummins were passenger drop 60's with a getrag and 205 so it'll clear ok
They weren't high pinion Dana 60's though.
Martin
Martin
No they weren't but neither is the chevy front he may switch to so exhaust to driveshaft clearance on the passenger side should be a non issue. I'm sure Kert will have it figured out before we're done arguing about it
So, plan for the exhaust since its been brought up is to run it outside the frame on the passenger side of course. I did this on my last rig, the blazer, and was really happy with how it all worked out. Granted the 4" tube is a bit bigger in diameter than what the blazer had for exhaust tube but that's not to say it has to be 4" in diameter to flow what a 4" pipe will.
Concerning the axle, there are some options.
A person could use a hydraulic throwout bearing and cut the slave cylinder mounting boss off the transmission. Glaring downside to this would be if the hydraulic throwout bearing failed in the middle of nowhere, the only recourse to R and R is to remove the trans. I think that alone is the thing that makes this a no go.
I could simply switch to a GM dana 60. While this would solve the issue by putting the axle on the opposite side, I lose the High Pinion. My blazer had the high pinion and I really like what it did to the drive shaft angles. Another down side, my HP is freshly rebuilt with all new seals and bearings. That's not so bad. I also like the bigger brakes on the HP axle which would also be lost.
Third option would be to remove the tubes from the HP60 housing and swap them side for side. I'd also have to remove the spring perch from the tube and reorient that. Obviously the down side is the additional work involved. Upside is I can retain all the benefits of the HP pinion and bigger brakes.
Decisions, decisions....
Concerning the axle, there are some options.
A person could use a hydraulic throwout bearing and cut the slave cylinder mounting boss off the transmission. Glaring downside to this would be if the hydraulic throwout bearing failed in the middle of nowhere, the only recourse to R and R is to remove the trans. I think that alone is the thing that makes this a no go.
I could simply switch to a GM dana 60. While this would solve the issue by putting the axle on the opposite side, I lose the High Pinion. My blazer had the high pinion and I really like what it did to the drive shaft angles. Another down side, my HP is freshly rebuilt with all new seals and bearings. That's not so bad. I also like the bigger brakes on the HP axle which would also be lost.
Third option would be to remove the tubes from the HP60 housing and swap them side for side. I'd also have to remove the spring perch from the tube and reorient that. Obviously the down side is the additional work involved. Upside is I can retain all the benefits of the HP pinion and bigger brakes.
Decisions, decisions....
How far from the starter is the clutch fork?
It had been a bit sense I have looked at the set up but I think you will have the room.
It had been a bit sense I have looked at the set up but I think you will have the room.
FWIW, a 4" exhaust pipe will just barely clear between the frame and t-case.
Also, the Ford rotors are smaller than the GM and the Ford caliper has quite a bit less area (combined) than the single piston GM. The GM D60 brakes are definitely better.
Also, the Ford rotors are smaller than the GM and the Ford caliper has quite a bit less area (combined) than the single piston GM. The GM D60 brakes are definitely better.
The starter is on the passenger side and doesn't stick out nearly as far as the slave cylinder mounting boss.
Interesting mine was on the drivers side.
Hood stack!! 
Done!!! 
Done!!! 
That is interesting.
This is a 1992 and Stompers is a 1993. Both on the Passenger side but different starters physically.
EDIT: I may be misremembering.... Might be on the drivers side.
Quite certain Stompers is on the passenger side. Mine is on the drivers side.
Mine is on pass side but it is a Chevy adapter plate. Pretty sure yours is on drivers.
Yep, believe you're right. Just remembering how battery cables were run on the two.
Got the box lifter done today. Pretty damn handy, we made it telescoping so it can be used with other sizes of boxes.
I think I'm going to slide the box as far forward as possible as shady and I were discussing earlier. Maybe Saturday I can start chopping the back wall out of the cab.
Getting to a point now where I want to finish up some things that have been started to get back to a spot where moving forward makes more sense.
I think I'm going to slide the box as far forward as possible as shady and I were discussing earlier. Maybe Saturday I can start chopping the back wall out of the cab.
Getting to a point now where I want to finish up some things that have been started to get back to a spot where moving forward makes more sense.
I love your ability to adapt/fab yourself into the "work smarter, not harder" mentality
handloader90
Building!
What's the cost for the templates and angle gauges?
Templates and gauges should work fine for 2x4x3/16" and 2x6x3/16" rectangular tubing since the outer diameters are the same, correct?
The frame is for a '76 K10 SWB. If I decide to switch over to an '81-'87 cab (extreme body damage etc. from hard core carnage) in the future will the body mounts that I fab for the '76 cab work/ line up properly with an '81-'87 cab?
I plan on using a military trailer bed as the box and using body mounts to attach it to the frame.
Templates and gauges should work fine for 2x4x3/16" and 2x6x3/16" rectangular tubing since the outer diameters are the same, correct?
The frame is for a '76 K10 SWB. If I decide to switch over to an '81-'87 cab (extreme body damage etc. from hard core carnage) in the future will the body mounts that I fab for the '76 cab work/ line up properly with an '81-'87 cab?
I plan on using a military trailer bed as the box and using body mounts to attach it to the frame.
That's a lot nicer than my box lifter was, I ended up using 1 ratchet strap in each corner which was very slow. Are you going to put a cage back into the bed through the top of the cab? If not, it may flex a little more than you think, don't make the gap too small. Nice work as always Kert.
