80's short box, "S.E.R.E." Box permanently attached to the cab.

[folkenheath]

I see what you mean. I don't think I explained it better though, I kind of assumed everyone already knew what Kert was trying to avoid by placing the shackle eye close to the spring eye, you explained that rather well. I just went straight to the question of which is more important, eliminating spring flex or optimizing anti squat. Obviously a compromise is in order, but I think improving the anti squat while increasing spring flex a little will be a better setup.

 

[cybrfire]

It's still forward of the spring mount and actually a bit lower than our normal anti wrap cross member would have it.

I agree, a bit longer is probably a good thing but this will work for now. All of this is just mock up anyway.

 

[cybrfire]

I think my pickup box has a bit of twist in it or something. Body mount holes that I drilled in the rear are .5" out of whack compared to the frame.

Since I'm 100% certain the frame is straight,, I can only assume the damage to the passenger side of the box has caused some issues. I'm hesitant to go much further with the welding. Box has to be pretty much perfect. There is plenty of adjustment in the body mounts but once the cage in the rear gets attached to the frame, all that adjustment goes away.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Your's is gooder Dave!

Although this is a different topic, GTBD#2!



I disagree with that sentence, but I agree with the rest of what you said pretty much, the length (particularly the location of the shackle attachement to the frame) does matter, because it sets your antisquat. The traction bar is much more rigid than the leaf spring, so the spring will flex to match the angle of the bar without much trouble. Add the more travel the leaf spring has, the more flexable it must be to travel that far. The IC will be the exact spot the bar shackle is attached to the frame. Im my opinion, too much antisquat is worse than flexing the leaf spring a little because the shackle isn't inline with the spring eyes. It may cause you to get wheel hop not from the usual spring wrap, but because lifting of the rear end may cause the whole truck to jump up and down as it gains and loses traction.

I get this with my anti wrap bar under high traction conditions. The anti squat will force the rear axle down until the tire slips then it falls. Not horrible, but I gotta watch it on rocks. My crossmember is just aft of my t-case output, and my shackle mounts up. Pretty similar angle to my driveshaft.

Sorry for the hijack Kert! Carry on! Truck is looking great!

 

[folkenheath]

It's still forward of the spring mount and actually a bit lower than our normal anti wrap cross member would have it.

I agree, a bit longer is probably a good thing but this will work for now. All of this is just mock up anyway.

I am sure you will get it working the way you want.

I think my pickup box has a bit of twist in it or something. Body mount holes that I drilled in the rear are .5" out of whack compared to the frame.

Since I'm 100% certain the frame is straight,, I can only assume the damage to the passenger side of the box has caused some issues. I'm hesitant to go much further with the welding. Box has to be pretty much perfect. There is plenty of adjustment in the body mounts but once the cage in the rear gets attached to the frame, all that adjustment goes away.

Vertical twist or front/back twist? I would think vertical twist would pull the bed straight when you tighten it down. Obviously the other would make it so you can't start the bolts. I am sure you will find a solution either way though!

I get this with my anti wrap bar under high traction conditions. The anti squat will force the rear axle down until the tire slips then it falls. Not horrible, but I gotta watch it on rocks. My crossmember is just aft of my t-case output, and my shackle mounts up. Pretty similar angle to my driveshaft.

Sorry for the hijack Kert! Carry on! Truck is looking great!

The more antisquat you have the easier that will happen. What causes that is the pinion wants to ride up the ring gear under power. This makes the axle housing want to twist up in front. (which is why you get spring wrap without it) So the closer the track bar mount on the frame is on the axle(shorter track bar, or lower mount, etc), the more force it will exert on the truck to lift it up. If you move the mount forward or down, it will reduce that effect. (Or in the case of a typical 4 link, it extends to the intersection point of the two arms way out front).

Anyway, truck is turning out awesome Kert, I look forward to seeing more. I like the fast pace of the build too!

 

[cybrfire]

Pretty much got the body mounts all set up. Have one pair to tack to the frame yet. I put a set in the middle of the box outboard of the frame. basically in line with the middle of the wheel well.

Been going back and forth on steering boxes lately. Looking like the best option is still the 88-98 Chevy pickup box.

Got an AC compressor on the way, need to get that mounted up so I can get the belt on and then I can work on the additional engine accessories mountings.

Be looking to get the radiator, AC condenser, Power steering cooler, trans cooler and Inter cooler in the core support over the next while.

Some other things that need to be tackled soon, inner fender wells, exhaust and engine cage.

 

[stumpjump]

Kert, something I just learned while going through sourcing a steering box for my straiggt axled GMT400 Blazer was that 90s dodges share the same steering box and because of crappy steering geometry the dodge cores are basically trash. After talking with PSC it sounds like all of the big name builders buy all the good cores and the ones they rejected go to the parts house for rebuild. I went through 2 Napa steering boxes with a tapped top plate and bottom cap from you before finally buying a PSC box and it is a night and day difference, the truck handles amazingly now, even on 38s.

 

[cybrfire]

Just trying to figure out the best one to use right now. Each one has its pros and cons. While the one i'll probably end up using just fits better.

I'll probably have to do a little notching of the core support but shouldn't be too extreme.

Kinda want to get that done so I can get on to the radiator stuff.

 

[rdn2blazer]

First I've looked in this thread. Awesome build Kurt. Kick ass job as usual.

 

[cybrfire]

First I've looked in this thread. Awesome build Kurt. Kick ass job as usual.

Thanks!

 

[POORBOYK5]

.....and is still an automatic.

Martin

He did have a late model GM NV4500 kicking around..... An input shaft and bell housing swap would mount it to that Cummins. Then attach GM T-case..

 

[cybrfire]

This project is somewhat on hold due to finishing up Stompers ride.

We have gotten as far on the steering box mounting as we can. Decided today we really need to raise the engine up just a bit higher. Using the inside the frame rail box, with the engine sitting as low as it is, the front of the pan is just to close to the drag link. In this instance, a bent drag link does no good to help clear the pan.

Waiting on parts to install the AC condenser, radiator and the other coolers.

 

[rompinstompinmudmonkey]

Have you seen my engine accessory mounts I made for my swap? I used a Sanden compressor, the GM alternator, and added an idler pulley. The lower water neck is incorporated into the bracketry as well. Everything clears the frame, the compressor and entire AC system is designed for R134A, and a belt off a 94-02 dodge is used. I have the dxf's saved. I should see if I can find them. I'm sure Dave could utilize a set for his build too.

 

[rompinstompinmudmonkey]

Here are a couple pics

 

[cybrfire]

Looks like a great setup.

I don't have any concerns about clearing the AC anymore at this point. I'll be fabbing some brackets for mounting a York and an additional alternator.

 

[boonedog]

Here are a couple pics

I would love to get the files for the brackets. Pretty please

 

[cybrfire]

New mounts for the engine have been fabbed up to lift the motor up 1.5".

 

[cybrfire]

How it sits now for comparison.

New block side mounts,

 

[y5mgisi]

Good work!

 

[cybrfire]

Here's a shot with the engine in the new, higher location,

Got the steering box in place yesterday. Then we set the AC compressor on the engine but discovered, I was given the wrong one. Mine is for a later year and the bolt up is close but not quite right.

Now we're working on the On board air compressor mounting and onboard welder/auxiliary alternator mounting.