'83 K10 SB "L1TSBFIBBC" build

[79rustyk10]

That system, uses vacuum to run the advance?

I would have thought that it would be computer controlled. Is there alot of tunability with that system.

 

[folkenheath]

Shecksy!

Well then, safe to say you have the dream truck of 90% of people on here! I know that is my dream truck! Great work!

He just needs to link that rear and it will be perfect. Even having a straight body

Thank you guys, it's getting close to being able to wheel it this summer. I have been building up a little at a time for 8 years now, so it's been a long time coming to get to this point, but at least I got to wheel it and have fun with it while it was happening. Now I just need to make shock mounts, and bumpstops, then put the bed back on and mount the tailpipes.

Later on I may link the back too, for now I will see how the rear leafs do with some racing shocks and air bumps now that they have the proper shackle angle.

That system, uses vacuum to run the advance?

I would have thought that it would be computer controlled. Is there alot of tunability with that system.

Yes, most aftermarket fuel injection systems use a separate ignition system but still control the timing, until you get into the DIS engines that already have a cam and crank sensor, and separate coil packs. This system is self learning on the fuel so it's up to you to set the timing curve up manually. For my purpose 95% of the gain is in the fuel injection, I can adjust the timing manually as much as I want pretty easily, I have already recurved the distributor for performance, and I have an MSD 6AL on there too for more spark. I could buy an MSD Digital 7 programmable ignition system and put a crank trigger on there, but I don't see much of an advantage for what I do, it's not high RPM operation, I have the rev limiter on there at 5800. Also, until you go completely distributorless, you are still limited in how much you can vary the timing electronically anyway.

As for tuneability of the EZ-EFI, you can tune the A/F ratio you want at Idle, cruise, and WOT. Three numbers. You can also vary your idle RPM, rev limit, etc. It will also work on darn near any engine size provided you have enough fuel flow in the pump and injectors. The included throttle body will support 650 hp at 60 psi. More than that and you need two throttle bodies, or a multiport intake with injectors at each cylinder. But it does not have the fully customizable base fuel map/tables like the all out FAST XFI system does.

The A/F ratio numbers are easily changeable while the engine is running, and then the system creates it's own fuel map tables to reach your specified A/F ratios. Above 50% load, it interpolates between cruise and WOT numbers so that it is as full WOT A/F ratio at 100% load. The out of the box settings were 13.4 at idle, 14.0 at cruise, and 12.8 for WOT. I think they stay on the rich side for safety sake, because usually with FI you make power a little leaner than with a carb, but that's also partly because of the injectors being closer to the valves, not sure how much that changes with the injectors under the throttle plates...? I will play with it and see how it does once I get it all back together so I can really test it out.

 

[y5mgisi]

Man that wounds like fun! I would love to play with that system! Would also really love to see what it could do for a more DD/MPG build. Something like a 350 with vortec heads and a very mild cam.

 

[blazinzuk]

Running air bumps is no different with leafs than with coils or coilovers. Never ran em myself but I have installed a couple sets. Took some tuning to get one set to work really good but man it sure made that truck settle down after a jump

 

[y5mgisi]

for my own pleasure,

we tuned the carb as well as we could, then took the car on a 100-mile mileage loop. The carb delivered 13.2 mpg. With EZ-EFI, the exact same mileage loop brought home 18.5 mpg.

From here,

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0912_efi_system_conversion/index.html

 

[folkenheath]

Man that wounds like fun! I would love to play with that system! Would also really love to see what it could do for a more DD/MPG build. Something like a 350 with vortec heads and a very mild cam.

I plan to enjoy toying with the system. I think it's also cool that it gives you live fuel flow data in lb/hr. Which makes it easy to calculate approximately how many hp you are supplying at that moment. It's like a built in dyno estimator, just not quite as accurate.

Running air bumps is no different with leafs than with coils or coilovers. Never ran em myself but I have installed a couple sets. Took some tuning to get one set to work really good but man it sure made that truck settle down after a jump

I ordered a pair! I was very impressed with them on the front last fall. When I was goofing around on the bumpy sand drag track at bundy, I remember thinking, I can't believe I am not bottoming out. When I got done I saw the dust marks on my bump stops, I was using 3" of the 4" travel and I couldn't even feel it, talk about smooth!

Quote:
we tuned the carb as well as we could, then took the car on a 100-mile mileage loop. The carb delivered 13.2 mpg. With EZ-EFI, the exact same mileage loop brought home 18.5 mpg.

I don't expect that from my rig, in fact I didn't plan on any mileage increase, any mileage increase would be a bonus though! And it sounds to me like they had the carb pretty rich at cruise if they got that much of a difference. Anyway, I was only getting about 9 MPG highway before, so next highway trip I go on I'll get a mileage reading. I don't have a city MPG reading, and I don't want to know! There is another change though, right before I put the EFI on, I changed the converter stall from 2000 - 3000. So that may make my mileage go down more than the EFI could possibly increase it.

 

[folkenheath]

Here is the new shackle angle. Keep in mind the bed is still off, it's sitting at 20 degrees right now, so I expect it to increase a couple more degrees with the bed on.

I moved my old ORD shackle flip forward 1 7/8", because then I didn't need to drill any new holes in the frame on the bottom. I drill 4 new holes in the frame on the side. And oblonged one hole in the shackle flip on the bottom to use both bolt holes again. Also, I figured, since the frame already had two holes in the middle, I drilled two more holes in the shackle hanger, since I feel like the 1/4" plate helps support the frame. 8 bolts/side is overkill, but it shouldn't rip off the frame!

Then I added some 5" (1" longer) DIY4X HD shackles. With these changes, my straight vertical droop increased from 1.5" - 3.5". I still need to cut off the u-bolts, and add the shocks and bumpstops (old ones are coming off). Shocks are supposed to arrive today.

Also, I called Rancho about my 5 yr old RS9000 (11.5" travel) shocks that the compression valving was gone, and they are under lifetime warranty. So I am getting brand new ones. Since I already have remote rezi FOA shocks on the way, I'll just sell those new ranchos when they arrive.

Also, I tested the droop with the leaf spring crossbolts out, and it was only 3/8" more droop, so I am leaving them in to help keep the springs alive.

 

[folkenheath]

3" flowmaster exhaust

Well, I better catch up on my progress, I had the truck out wheelin at the dunes 2 weeks ago and haven't had time to catch up here, I was pretty busy with it for a few weeks before that.

I made some hand sketches and ordered a few custom bends/offsets from mandrel bending solutions, plus some 3" in/out flowmaster big block muffs, this is what I started with then...it's all 3" aluminized steel.

And these are the main pieces that slide in after removal and welding, the tailpipes just have one 60 deg bend after the muffs, and are held on with band clamps for when I have to remove the system. The O2 sensor bund is welded in right after the DS collector.

 

[folkenheath]

Then I started building the rear shock mounts and bumpstops and contact pads. I notched the frame on the drivers side for a forward tilting shock, similar to the passenger side, and also made the passenger side notch extend forward a little (the lift creates less shock angle). With the forward tilting shock you get more travel because of the arc of the front leaf spring hanger.

Here you can see my fab process for many of the brackets I make. These are the shock/frame braces I made to support the outshock bolt hole and bridge the frame notch.

Cardboard first....

Then use the cardboard to trace onto the metal with some soapstone, cut it out with the plasma by hand, then grind and flap disc until everything fits together, and tack in place...

While I had it apart I put a wire wheel on the angle grinder and cleaned the tubes off and welded the tubes to the center, and rewelded the factory plugs that have always seeped a little oil. I went with the keep it cool method, and only welded short sections and let it cool between each weld. Which is why you see the stop/start parts of the weld.

And this is what happens if you are using the wire wheel on a bracket and your shirt catches in the wheel. It actually flipped the grinder around in my arms while I hit myself, and wrapped my shirt up countless times before it stalled my 12A grinder, luckily it never hit my skin! Happened so quick I was standing there with the grinder still on, stalled, thinking, holy crap. Tim the toolman says, you shouldn't wear lose clothing while working with power tools...

I made a crossmember out of 2 x 4 x 3/16" wall tubing, since I moved the bumpstops out from directly under the frame I wanted to support the frame from the twisting forces there now. I also used that crossmember for the exhaust hangers.

Inside the frame notch after paint... (flat black over high zinc primer). I welded thick washers and nuts in the back so I didn't have to remove the exhaust to change the shocks/valving. This pic is also easy to see how I added a chunk of tubing and some flate plate to act as a large bumpstop contact pad directly above the leaf spring.

Here are the bumpstop mounts, the same 2 x 4 x 3/16" tubing, cut at an angle...

Here is the framerail and brackets with before reassembly. You can see I made rezzi mounts with some angle iron by cutting partially through it with the Milwaukee dry saw, man that thing is impressive with how well you can cut steel with it.

And the shock tabs I got from DIY4X, that I added some 1" OD x .25" wall tubing for spacers. I used those on the upper shock mounts in the frame too. Good way to space the tabs out so they don't hit the shock as they rotate, and easy to weld to.

 

[jekquistk5]

so how did it do???

 

[folkenheath]

Pit it all together and it looks like this...

The shocks are 2.0x12" travel FOAs with 2.5 rezzis for more oil volume.

The air bumps are FOA 2.5x4" travel.

 

[folkenheath]

so how did it do???

Better than I expected. It was a blast at silver lake. I was going 30 - 50 mph a lot of times just running around even over the bumps, sometimes 65 MPH at the sand drag area although it was pretty smooth at the drag area that weekend, only bumps at the end. I was very happy with the peformance, I didn't expect to be able drive like that and still feel under control and smooth. It was like it would float on top. My brother and father were surprised at how well it worked, and so was I. The air bumps would soak up the larger bumps, and then it would just "float" back to ride height, no bouncing! The shocks kept it under control.

Also, even with the 10" stall converter (which friggin' slips 400 RPM on the freeway instead of 100 RPM like the old one, much looser than I expected, but its in there now), anyway, despite that converter my MPG went up to 10.7 on the highway. That's an 18% increase from before, including slipping the converter now. The EFI was working! And the EFI didn't care if it was bumpy, or hilly, or I parked on a steep hill, it just kept running, I really liked it. Its like the best of both worlds, the the throttle response of a double pumper with better mileage than a vacuum secondary carb.
At the sand drags, it was awesome, the EFI kept the 489 fed, and once I got my launch technique down it felt good! It would just rip. I mean, it was no race truck, but it was a lot of fun. Put you back in your seat and just keep on truckin until it was time to let off, which isn't long on a 400 ft track or so. There was only one truck there that beat me and he had a 540 big block with a solid roller cam in it. It was a white 67 Chevy stepside shortbed with 36" IROKs on it that weighed 700 lbs less than my rig. Was a nice truck too, but I wouldn't of guessed 540 until he started it up.

No granted, if it was a big weekend I am sure there would of been other trucks there that could beat me, and that's fine, it's fast enough I'll have fun with it losing!

 

[munepit]

Damm, Nice work. Looks awesome. You have got some nice fab skills. I need to do my rear like yours. I like it a lot!!!!!!

 

[jekquistk5]

Better than I expected. It was a blast at silver lake. I was going 30 - 50 mph a lot of times just running around even over the bumps, sometimes 65 MPH at the sand drag area although it was pretty smooth at the drag area that weekend, only bumps at the end. I was very happy with the peformance, I didn't expect to be able drive like that and still feel under control and smooth. It was like it would float on top. My brother and father were surprised at how well it worked, and so was I. The air bumps would soak up the larger bumps, and then it would just "float" back to ride height, no bouncing! The shocks kept it under control.

Also, even with the 10" stall converter (which friggin' slips 400 RPM on the freeway instead of 100 RPM like the old one, much looser than I expected, but its in there now), anyway, despite that converter my MPG went up to 10.7 on the highway. That's an 18% increase from before, including slipping the converter now. The EFI was working! And the EFI didn't care if it was bumpy, or hilly, or I parked on a steep hill, it just kept running, I really liked it. Its like the best of both worlds, the the throttle response of a double pumper with better mileage than a vacuum secondary carb.
At the sand drags, it was awesome, the EFI kept the 489 fed, and once I got my launch technique down it felt good! It would just rip. I mean, it was no race truck, but it was a lot of fun. Put you back in your seat and just keep on truckin until it was time to let off, which isn't long on a 400 ft track or so. There was only one truck there that beat me and he had a 540 big block with a solid roller cam in it. It was a white 67 Chevy stepside shortbed with 36" IROKs on it that weighed 700 lbs less than my rig. Was a nice truck too, but I wouldn't of guessed 540 until he started it up.

No granted, if it was a big weekend I am sure there would of been other trucks there that could beat me, and that's fine, it's fast enough I'll have fun with it losing!

That is just awesome. You got me thinking about air bumps and better shocks. BTW where are the pics

 

[82355]

Damn nice work, as usual.

Martin

 

[nvrenuf]

Wow Really nice!

Now... lets start working on some video.

 

[folkenheath]

Damm, Nice work. Looks awesome. You have got some nice fab skills. I need to do my rear like yours. I like it a lot!!!!!!

Thank you, any questions shoot me a line.

That is just awesome. You got me thinking about air bumps and better shocks. BTW where are the pics

I don't regret putting them in. My brother said the suspension makes the truck more fun than the big block swap (and he loves big blocks too).

Damn nice work, as usual.

Martin

Thank you sir, appreciate it.

Wow Really nice!

Now... lets start working on some video.

Thank you, I took a couple videos and pics, but didn't get much, I was always in the truck or on my brothers/fathers quads and we only had one camera. The vids didn't turn out the best but I'll try and post them up later this week or something. At home they only play sound, or video, but not both depending on what program I use. But they work fine on the camera, and on the TV from the camera.

Also, I did try to take a video of the engine starting and idling, blipping the throttle just for the sound, but I hit the wrong button because someone called, and I lost it. Turned the camera back on and the battery went dead before I could record the video again.

 

[76zimmer]

air bumps are the shiznit huh Heath?

Great job on the fab mounting. How is the contact spot when flexing the axles in opposite directions (like offset moguls or the like) Just wondering how big of a contact plate is needed to make sure the piston hits it under extreme flexing?

 

[max 02]

Beautiful work!

I would love too see some video of your truck in action.

 

[shady]

To h3ll with video,,,, I wanna ride in it