CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

84 Crew Cab Whatever Build

I know a guy here in town that has three dually chevys, one the brake backing plates are right up against the u-bolts and the other two have about 4" between the backing plate and the u-bolts. Sorry just googled it and answered my own question. His dually with the narrow rear axle must be a chassis cab truck, I guess they have a narrower rear axle and the regular pickups got the wider dually axle. Get a WMS to WMS distance for front and rear and see what would be the easiest to do to make single wheels work if you really want to go that route. I'd keep it dually other that you gotta buy 6 tires vs 4.

Yeah, that's it - most cab & chassis trucks had a real narrow rear axle, 63" or 65". I've rear they could have had the wide axle (real rare), I'm sure it all boils down to weird C&C option packages.
 
Thanks for the replies. I never really thought about keeping it a dually but I guess that is an option. The dually bed is sold though and getting fender coverage would be necessary. But really, making it SRW sounds better. I'm not a dually guy. So, what would be a good way to try out the H1s. It would seem like they would need a 12.5" width tire which means a 33" tall tire. Fitting that combo on a 2wd might be interesting but it would seem doable with some fender mods. The tires on it now are the metric equivalent of a 32" tire. Granted they are skinnier with more backspacing. I'd like to find a set of 33s just to try out. Then there would be the issue of the run flat inserts. These are 12 bolt H1s with rubber inserts. How hard is it to just cut down the run flats off of the inserts? Or would they be ok as is?
 
If you cut the runflats (which I would recommend for airing down) then be precise with the cuts as it will affect the balance of the tire/rim assembly.
This, and make sure to cut as much as possible. I left some sharp edges, and it cut my tire from the inside. Or run the PVC inserts.
 
Posting progress pics. It took awhile but I finally got the passenger side rocker replaced. It needed a couple of minor patches on the inner rocker and the replacement was adequate but not stellar. For this project it should be fine. POR15d the back side of the rocker, cab supports, and part of the floor. It is actually in pretty decent shape. Then the gas tank needed new holes for the mount on the leaf spring side drilled. In hooking it up, it became apparent that one of the POs had bypassed the dual tank feature and made it a single. There is another issue that will need to be solved. The tank I used is a plastic tank. It fit pretty well and seems well constructed.

Then there was the driveshaft. I had it shortened but there must have been a measuring error somewhere because it was still a too tight. The pinion flange mounting location on a 14BFF allows for about a 2" longer driveshaft. So, I went ahead and swapped the one I had in there. It is CUCV 14BFF. Should be an interesting combo with a SM465, lol. Put some 35s on there for fun. May actually leave them there. The other part of that plan is an NV4500 that was bartered for. It is a remanned unit with 0 miles but no bellhousing. Seems like someone on here was going to redrill an SM465 bell. Does that work?

IMG_2946.JPG

IMG_2942.JPG

IMG_2943.JPG
 
Making progress. Really digging the 35s on a 2wd. The front will be more interesting for sure. Front fenders were already hacked for some reason by the PO. So, no worries on trimming up pristine fenders. It felt pretty cool to drive it.

IMG_2951.JPG

IMG_2952.JPG
 
I'll watch:popcorn:. CCSB square bodies are my favorite trucks... I want another one
 
The only update I have is that I bought some new SRW front rotors. Hope to have some time this week to get them on. I am curious as to how the 35s will fit on the front.
 
The other part of that plan is an NV4500 that was bartered for. It is a remanned unit with 0 miles but no bellhousing. Seems like someone on here was going to redrill an SM465 bell. Does that work?

Yep, it does. I have pictures of the process in my M1009 thread. Running the bolts from the engine side into the tranny does mean that the unit hasta be installed together (like an integrated bell housing), rather than installing the bell and then installing the tranny. But otherwise it's pretty straight forward. Drill & tap new bolt holes, bolt it together and you are done. I did mine with a hand drill and a little patience. They're not perfectly square but close enough to have no issues assembling it.
 
Yep, it does. I have pictures of the process in my M1009 thread. Running the bolts from the engine side into the tranny does mean that the unit hasta be installed together (like an integrated bell housing), rather than installing the bell and then installing the tranny. But otherwise it's pretty straight forward. Drill & tap new bolt holes, bolt it together and you are done. I did mine with a hand drill and a little patience. They're not perfectly square but close enough to have no issues assembling it.
Yeah, that's what I was looking for. Thanks.

Were they both the same depth? I have a mechanical clutch SM465. Hoping this will work.
 
Yeah, that's what I was looking for. Thanks.

Were they both the same depth? I have a mechanical clutch SM465. Hoping this will work.

I'm running a hydraulic clutch bell housing (casting # is in the thread). It is the same depth as the NV4500 bell housing, and the unit bolted right up once I finally got it aligned properly. I have a mechanical bell housing and they appear to be the same height, but I haven't personally fitted those pieces together. Pretty sure those parts are interchangeable. Do you have the NV4500 bell housing lying around to measure?
 
I'm running a hydraulic clutch bell housing (casting # is in the thread). It is the same depth as the NV4500 bell housing, and the unit bolted right up once I finally got it aligned properly. I have a mechanical bell housing and they appear to be the same height, but I haven't personally fitted those pieces together. Pretty sure those parts are interchangeable. Do you have the NV4500 bell housing lying around to measure?

It didn't come with a bell housing.

Have you driven the M1009 with the NV4500 in it? Does it shift alright?
 
It didn't come with a bell housing.

Have you driven the M1009 with the NV4500 in it? Does it shift alright?

Nope. I've driven other rigs with NV4500s, but the M1009 is still in pieces. I did shift it through the gears last week (see thread), but haven't mounted the transfer case yet.
 
Nope. I've driven other rigs with NV4500s, but the M1009 is still in pieces. I did shift it through the gears last week (see thread), but haven't mounted the transfer case yet.
Well, thanks for posting all the same. I was curious how the bell would center up to drill new holes. Looks like it self aligns on the input shaft mounting plate. It went together fine too. Does the clutch feel alright? Which clutch did you use? One for the SM465?
 
Top Bottom