CK5
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I will tell you what I'm about to do. Cut an "access door", witha hinge and everything. For that fawking Crank position sensor.
If that thing goes bad, engine has to come out,or, cut an access door.
 
I know it the correct booster, it's new, and I ordered it as a 1973 booster. I didn't want any more surprises

I looked at the specs of a 73 and 84 booster, they are different. The shape and the angle off the firewall.

1984 K10 Booster
1984 K10 Booster.jpg

1973 K10 Booster
1974 K10 Booster.jpg

The way the earlier booster tilts up, is probably enough clearance.
 
I will tell you what I'm about to do. Cut an "access door", witha hinge and everything. For that fawking Crank position sensor.
If that thing goes bad, engine has to come out,or, cut an access door.

I've heard this from more than one person however it doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. It won't be fun but it's definitely appears to be accessible. I replaced it with a new AC Delco and put the OG sensor with the rest of the spare trail parts I carry.
 
Knocking items off the list, one at a time....

Fuel system plumbed
Bellhousing trimmed for oil pan clearance and installed
ECU mounted and harness layout complete (more on this later)
Spark plugs and plug wires installed
Injector and coil harnesses installed
New shift cable installed with 2 layers of heat protection
Engine oil dipstick installed
Oil PSI and coolant temp sensors (for dash gauges) installed
Exhaust cut up, stretched, welded, heat wrapped again and installed
Throttle cable installed
and probably some other stuff that I can't remember.

random pics from the weekend

Howell harness laid out on the floor.
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The PCM was mounted to an ORA mount and built a couple brackets and welded them to the A pillar on the passenger side.
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Ran the harness into the cab and mounted the Howell supplied relays. I still need to mount the OBD port/CEL and fuse block somewhere.
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During the harness layout I would loosely confirm the connectors on the harness would match the sensors and found this at the O2's. Apparently they use different connectors on the harness for O2's and I happen to get an harness that requires AFS75's rather than the AFS93's that I bought. New O2's will be delivered Friday.
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I went to install the bellhousing (after trimming) and realized one of the bolt holes wasn't accessible because the exhaust manifold was in the way. Right away that raised red flags because it wasn't like that with the 454. After a quick fit of the exhaust I realized the heads placed the exhaust manifolds in a slightly different location (wider) :doah:

I unwrapped the cross pipe, cut the exhaust in two locations and sleeved it. Below is a pic of the test fit before I tacked the sleeves while the exhaust was bolted to each manifold. Note: this is the second time I had to rework this section so it looks like legos now.
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and here it is welded, rewrapped and installed. Also installed the new shift cable with two heat sleeves.
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Routed the rest of the harness, shortened the lokar throttle cable, installed the dipstick and placed the cover on the engine for a motivation pic.
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I'm waiting on two coolant bulkhead adapters, coolant temp sensor for the ECU and the O2's I mentioned above.

I need to buy heater hose, upper rad hose, new battery and fluids (oil, coolant and ATF).

Getting closer and I might be able to fire it this weekend if all goes well.
 
I will tell you what I'm about to do. Cut an "access door", witha hinge and everything. For that fawking Crank position sensor.
If that thing goes bad, engine has to come out,or, cut an access door.
When we were reassembling my second 8.1 in my truck Larry and I talked about crank sensor replacement. I did get a new one btw. But with the intake off, the access to the crank sensor isn’t horrible. It would be working 100% by braille with the intake in if not impossible to do. The intake isn’t hard to remove since no coolant goes through it.

Important thing to know is if it’s an early 8.1 you should put the later crank position sensor in it prior to putting it in the truck. The early has multiple o-rings to seal it and makes it a bitch to remove and more common to break when trying to remove. The later style has less o-rings to drag on the way out and are less likely to break.

I’ve yet to have a crank sensor issue (knock on wood) with my old 8.1 and don’t expect to.
 
When we were reassembling my second 8.1 in my truck Larry and I talked about crank sensor replacement. I did get a new one btw. But with the intake off, the access to the crank sensor isn’t horrible. It would be working 100% by braille with the intake in if not impossible to do. The intake isn’t hard to remove since no coolant goes through it.

Important thing to know is if it’s an early 8.1 you should put the later crank position sensor in it prior to putting it in the truck. The early has multiple o-rings to seal it and makes it a bitch to remove and more common to break when trying to remove. The later style has less o-rings to drag on the way out and are less likely to break.

I’ve yet to have a crank sensor issue (knock on wood) with my old 8.1 and don’t expect to.

I can put my arm between the intake manifold and firewall and grab onto the crank sensor. I can also grab the sensor from under the truck.

I’m pretty sure I installed the later sensor and I noticed the plug was spun 90 degrees so it was parallel the head. The previous sensor had a plug that was perpendicular to the head.
 
At the firewall or where? This truck has an open cab with tube doors for 90% of the time I’m using it.
At the firewall. Ahh, okay. For some reason I thought you were running full doors more often than that. Hense the water proofing question. My mistake. Thanks for the feedback and it’s awesome you’re getting close to firing the 8.1.
 
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At the firewall. Ahh, okay. For some reason I thought you were running full doors more often than that. Hense the water proofing question. My mistake. Thanks for the feedback and it’s awesome you’re getting close to firing the 8.1 in The Animal.

The doors are on all winter and I'll do the occasional snow run. I'm more worried about water crossings so keeping the electronics up high have been a bigger priority.

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