CK5
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I've been needing a decent welding table so I ran over to blue collars supply in Sacramento and picked up a 1/4" plate, 2x2 .120 wall along with some wheels and hardware.

Basic frame welded up
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I wanted at least one receiver for a vise, notcher etc. so I picked this up from Harris Gas and welded a 5/8" nut on the side of it.
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I also wanted power on this table so I could roll it wherever I needed in the shop and then run a 12 gauge extension cord from the table to the 110v/25 amp dedicated circuit I have the in garage. So I decided to mount a coupe two gang boxes under the table and tie them together with some 3/4" conduit.

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next was to burn the top to the frame and cut some feet for the wheels so I fired up the new plasma for it's first cut. I hadn't used one of these in years and I had the amperage a little low on the first cut (1/4") so it was a little sloppy :D

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Drilled the holes for the wheels and welded the feet to the legs....

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Need to finish the electrical, round the table top corners, add some expanded metal on the bottom and throw some pain on it. All in all I'm pretty happy with it.

PS- Yes it's tall, I'm 6'4" so I make most of my benches on the taller side.
 
I was gonna say looks nice. Didn't even notice the height. Course my short friends curse me every time they use a bench I built. I'm close to your height
 
I was gonna say looks nice. Didn't even notice the height. Course my short friends curse me every time they use a bench I built. I'm close to your height

Funny you mention that, I sent a pic to my good friend (he's short) and told him I have a step ladder for him :D

It's about 43" IIRC
 
Power on the welding table. *&$@*)ing genius. Why didn't I think of that? :doah: What I really, REALLY hate about CK5 is all the good ideas I get here... which lead to more projects... :D

Coupla Q's, then:

Did you tack the boxes in place, or are they bolted on?

And why the offset for the conduit, instead of just straight across? Is there a clearance issue to a crossmember I couldn't see?

-- A
 
And why the offset for the conduit, instead of just straight across? Is there a clearance issue to a crossmember I couldn't see?
-- A

x2, as an electrician that is one of the first things I noticed . . . besides the romex, hahaha, I hate that stuff

Personally I would leave the corners as they are. Sometimes they come in handy. I realize you are probably thinking of them as a hazard though.

So how much force can you apply to the receiver tube attachment before it wants to pick the wheels up on the backside? Obviously the further out your vise, etc, goes from that receiver tube, the less force it will take to topple the table
 
Power on the welding table. *&$@*)ing genius. Why didn't I think of that? :doah: What I really, REALLY hate about CK5 is all the good ideas I get here... which lead to more projects... :D

Coupla Q's, then:

Did you tack the boxes in place, or are they bolted on?

And why the offset for the conduit, instead of just straight across? Is there a clearance issue to a crossmember I couldn't see?

-- A
I offset the conduit so it's out of the way

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boxes are screwed to the 2x2 with self tappers

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Ah yes, how to drive electricians mad ... run Romex through conduit. Even if it's over-sized conduit to code, they start making this "gleep" noise and waving their arms :D

Thanks!

-- A
 
The romex was laying around, it's a 30" run anyway :flipoff7:

the th400/np208 adapter showed up today. It's a little rusty so I submerged it in Evaporust at lunch today.

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So how much force can you apply to the receiver tube attachment before it wants to pick the wheels up on the backside? Obviously the further out your vise, etc, goes from that receiver tube, the less force it will take to topple the table

Missed this comment earlier today.

I thought about this but I don't intend on hanging a big vise or anything heavy enough to create that much leverage. The vise I have is pretty small, maybe 15lbs.
 
Time for some updates.

I tore down a perfectly good 32 spline 241 (if anyone needs some of this stuff let me know)

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set these to the side
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Removing the outer planetary gear was a little nerve racking. I made this cut all the way around and then some relief cuts. Broke off any excess casing with a hammer as I went.
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You can see the three relief cuts I made around the outside of the ring, little by little until the case cracked.
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Then I wedged a chisel in one of the reliefs and the ring fell out
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Dinner time
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I heard that, and pressing the planetary gear into the new housing is the worst part of the whole thing. Everything else seems pretty straight forward.

Looks sick!!
 
Next up was the 32 spline figure 8 Np205 which needed to be resealed and upgraded with 32 spline front output and twin sticked.

I should have taken a picture of this case before I scraped it and pressure washed it however I'm sure y'all could imagine what it looked like. The end product has a nice variety of red, blue and black paint with silicone (blue orange and gray) smeared all over it :D
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1976 case

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Started by pulling the front output shaft
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Side by side comparison

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I used some bearing grease to keep the needle bearings in place
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details....

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new seal with the flange temporarily in place while the hardware sits in the parts washer
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I heard that, and pressing the planetary gear into the new housing is the worst part of the whole thing. Everything else seems pretty straight forward.

Looks sick!!

Yep

Need to buy a press this week, haven't had any luck on CL so I'll probably buy the HF 20 ton unit that has pretty solid reviews.

Thanks.
 
I bought the JB Fab twin stick kit a year or two ago, sold the twin stick shifter's to my buddy (since I can't use those with the crawl box) and kept the shift rails.

John's products are tits, I can't say enough good things about his stuff and his service. His video was a helpful reminder because I misplaced the directions somewhere.

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Pulled both of the top two indent bolts/springs/balls
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You have to punch out both of the little inspection covers and the roll pins from the shift forks. Then hold the shift fork in place (I used a punch as pictured), remove the old shift rail, install new rail seal and slide the new rail in. Then press in the new roll pins (I taped the roll pin to a punch to get it started).

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Yep

Need to buy a press this week, haven't had any luck on CL so I'll probably buy the HF 20 ton unit that has pretty solid reviews.

Thanks.

We have that HF press. Probably one of the better products HF puts out. Been using it for a long time and keeps working as it should....good price too....as you would expect from HF
 
I slid one of the ORD output flanges on along with the NWF figure 8 to crawl adapter for a picture. This got me a little excited :saweet:

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I purchased the optional foot from NWF which I noticed won't lay flat against the crossmember if I go flat belly. I'm not sure how flat I'm going, this could be modified if needed pretty easily as well. More on that later.

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