Wow! look at those body lines all lined up in a flex pic! Nice! 
CK5
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Thanks for the advice, I was thinking that or a crush washer?
Go away camping for the weekend and come back to this! I feel like it went from being sick in the garage to hitting the trails all of a sudden.
Wow! look at those body lines all lined up in a flex pic! Nice!
The jury is still out for a real flex test but I could tell it was much more rigid after boxing the frame. I should mention there's only two bolts holding the box on too.
What fluid are you running in the '205?
Mine was curmudgeonly and wouldn't shift until warmed up and/or spun forward and backward a bit. On the advice of some threads on Pirate, I added like a quart of Lucas tranny additive to the gear oil, and now it shifts like butter right outta the gate.
OTOH, if you're already running ATF I donno that it would need the less-viscous addition
-- A
I use to run ATF but I put gear oil in this one.
RTV because the threads are tiny, no way you could crush a fly let alone a copper crush washer. Why Derale doesn't do this from the factory I have no idea.
Great point that is true
I went the other way. Jury is still out
You ran ATF? The only reason I ran ATF before was because it was mated to an auto.
I don't understand why all your friends let you skip leg day...
Figured I'd give that a go before I went syn 90
Did you make the fluid sight yourself or is it a kit?
I made it and just remembered I forgot to snag a pic for ya. It's basically a barbed 90 off the drain port and I tapped the cover for another nipple/barbed 90 combo. Add a piece of clear tube and a couple hose clamps. NWF sells a kit or you can buy their tapped billet cover if you don't want to DIY.
Nice update man. Glad to see things coming to a closer end goal. Keep up the awesome works of works.
last night I disconnected the cable linkage from the rear shift rail to make sure that wasn't causing a bind and tried to move the rail manually with a little crowbar. I was able to get it into low and neutral but not high. I put a pretty good amount of force on it and it's as if it's hitting a wall. I also realized I cooked a cable for the range box, it must have shifted at some point. Ordered a new cable from JB and a heat sleeve just a bit ago. I'm going to send Jon at JB fab an email to see if he has any ideas what could cause the case not to go into 4 high. To bad it's not the front output giving me problems, I could probably careless about the front ever being in high 
Just got off the phone with Jesse, new front 42 degree CV shaft with 12" of slip is ordered. Also ended up getting a different flange and he recommended a 1410 front yoke. Should be built by next Wednesday so I can run up and grab it from him.
That burned.....
need to figure out the yoke swap, I should have called him before I had a 1350 yoke put on the D60
That burned.....
need to figure out the yoke swap, I should have called him before I had a 1350 yoke put on the D60
Should be simple enough, D60 uses shims to set bearing preload not a crushsleeve.
good point.
Damnnn ballin! 
Jon at JB fab responded and said to look at the shift fork, could be installed backwards. I took that thing apart so long ago I can't remember if I took that out or not 
