CK5
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454Sub
5/8 ton status
I did that on my disk swap in the rear. Didn't get fluid in it though but 40s suck to remove.
Yeah, I was asking because I didn't think you would have done something like that..... 
I thought it was a picture from the thread you referenced.
Hopefully that will solve your problems.
I thought it was a picture from the thread you referenced.Hopefully that will solve your problems.
Yeah, I was asking because I didn't think you would have done something like that.....
Hopefully that will solve your problems.
You thought wrong.
I even had the parts marked "D" for drivers side. Oh well.
Swapped everything over and vacuum bled it pretty well. Fired it up pumped the brakes a few times and the pedal stuck to the floor. At this point I'm wondering if I damaged the booster and need ANOTHER 
454Sub
5/8 ton status
In all my experience I have never had one stick to the floor like that. Go to the floor sure but never stick.
I completely forgot to put my calipers on one time. Left them sitting on the leaf spring. Yeah....
I don't think so, it's hammered and sat outside all winter.
Me either
I don't know. The only thing I have found is a different master/booster for JB5 brakes and those masters are the older cast style with the metal top. But really, the only thing left diesel on this truck is the sheetmetal, everything else is been replaced.
Had one come loose in high school, hit the brakes one side of the caliper came loose, wedged against the rim and locked up the tire. Scared the shit out me.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
And I keep going back to the first "failure" when the pedal stuck to the floor and I replaced the booster and it was fixed. Took it on a trip and it was fine....
Did a rear disk swap, bled the brakes and it does it again?
Can the booster get damaged from a repetitive low pedal braking?
Did a rear disk swap, bled the brakes and it does it again?
Can the booster get damaged from a repetitive low pedal braking?
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Just use a friction brake like a kids Sprint car. I imagine a nice piece of oak with a leather handle will slow her down nicely.
Hell, anything is possible. Where are you getting your boosters?
Here is something that will stick forever. About 15-20 yrs ago I had a 6.2 work truck that wouldnt start. Diagnosed it and replaced the glow plug controller.
Still no start. Troubleshot it again and everything pointed to bad controller. Warrantied it out and still no start. I warrantied it again. No start. I considered myself pretty sharp and could not understand what was wrong. I actually opened the phone book and started calling other diesel shops to pick their brains. I talked to one guy that asked me where I was getting the new gp controller from and i said Napa. Gp sorensen part. He said yeah I went through a whole case of bad ones. Get the AC Delco one. I said ok thanks. Called chevy and was actually cheaper than the napa part. Put it in and fired right up.... Moral of the story, don't ever assume a part is good because its new.
Still no start. Troubleshot it again and everything pointed to bad controller. Warrantied it out and still no start. I warrantied it again. No start. I considered myself pretty sharp and could not understand what was wrong. I actually opened the phone book and started calling other diesel shops to pick their brains. I talked to one guy that asked me where I was getting the new gp controller from and i said Napa. Gp sorensen part. He said yeah I went through a whole case of bad ones. Get the AC Delco one. I said ok thanks. Called chevy and was actually cheaper than the napa part. Put it in and fired right up.... Moral of the story, don't ever assume a part is good because its new.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
True enough
A few years back I had a coil failure on my cavalier. 3 days in a row on the exact same mile of highway the same coil failed. Replaced it at the same OReillys 3 times. Finally got one from the junkyard and it still runs.
A few years back I had a coil failure on my cavalier. 3 days in a row on the exact same mile of highway the same coil failed. Replaced it at the same OReillys 3 times. Finally got one from the junkyard and it still runs.
both have been A1 Cardone boosters. First purchased through Rockauto with the MS attached. Second was sourced locally through Napa. They seem to be pretty dominant in this market, Summit sells the same one. Maybe I can source a Delco or another better brand through Rockauto.
So with no mc and the engine off it depresses and releases fine? And I'm guessing the spring in the mc feels fine and piston returns fine when bench bleeding. The only thing causing it is the vacuum holding the booster in the applied position. How are they supposed to release? Does the spring in the booster and the one in the mc just overcome the vacuum to return everything to the normal position in combination with the valve thingy that puts vacuum back to both sides of the diaphragm?
with the engine off, MS removed I can depress the pedal all I want and it won't get hung up. Same with the MS on and engine off, it won't hang up. Also with vacuum removed and engine on (manual brakes) it won't hang up.
However with the engine on and MS off it will get stuck, well at least it did once so that's why I'm leaning toward a booster issue or some sort of pedal/booster problem since those are the only two mechanical parts being used. Vacuum is vacuum and I removed fitech from the equation to make sure something wasn't going on with that. Also bypassed the check valve for shits and grins, no change.
Basically the booster has two chambers and when you let off the pedal the vacuum applied is transferred within the two chambers balancing them out. Then the return spring in the booster, the MS and the pedal (spring) all return together. I feel the spring in the booster working so the only other failure I can see is the valve or whatever is in the booster transferring the vacuum between chambers.
Napa has a different brand booster available, I forgot what it was called but I'll have it this afternoon.
