Gawdamn. My crew cab weighs 6540.
Between the tires, rim protectors, the cage,the doubler, I figured as much.I didn’t believe her and made her repeat the weight to me.
Between the tires, rim protectors, the cage,the doubler, I figured as much.
Forgot you also have a winch right.
It adds up quick
Adds up quickly, too! How did the 6500 lbs line up with your expectations?Yep and the boxed frame, added a bunch of crossmembers and skid plates too. Definitely adds up.
Yeah I agree we all are building for strength and longevity not weight shaving for racing.Adds up quickly, too! How did the 6500 lbs line up with your expectations?
There’s an ongoing conversation some friends and I had about weight, and how it’s hard to factor in wide ranging control when our formulas are all starting from a similar point - LS/400/Magnum/tons/40s/winch. That alone is 1/2-2/3 of the overall package in terms of weight. At that point, we only control the body and frame selection, material and design for any cage, bumpers; and we’re not race teams looking to rebuild a chassis every season, so durability is a concern.
This coming from a guy with a lot of steel and glass and an 8500 lb rig.
David
That reminded me of something back home, the army could afford to buy a dozen tanks with lightweight armor or 2 dozen without, so they bought 2 dozen.Yeah I agree we all are building for strength and longevity not weight shaving for racing.
I just like to keep it from getting too top heavy for stability off road and adding too much weight to negate all the power improvements we do.
Adds up quickly, too! How did the 6500 lbs line up with your expectations?
There’s an ongoing conversation some friends and I had about weight, and how it’s hard to factor in wide ranging control when our formulas are all starting from a similar point - LS/400/Magnum/tons/40s/winch. That alone is 1/2-2/3 of the overall package in terms of weight. At that point, we only control the body and frame selection, material and design for any cage, bumpers; and we’re not race teams looking to rebuild a chassis every season, so durability is a concern.
This coming from a guy with a lot of steel and glass and an 8500 lb rig.
David
I'd like to see how it works out, I'm considering taking the factory tilt column out of my k5 in favor of something more robust like thisAs I've mentioned previously, I have a tilt steering column that is absolutely hammered and following apart. It's to the point now that I have to tilt the wheel a certain way to get the ignition on and I need a pair of pliers to pull the linkage to kick the starter. The wiper, blinker controls are long gone and the ergonomics of the column has been poor since the PRP's have gone in. For ease of access I need a tilt wheel or removable steering wheel so I started by looking at aftermarket replacement columns however I quickly found those to be more than I wanted to spend. After looking at a variety of universal columns from Jeg's, Summit, Speedway, Sweet, PSC etc. I settled on a collapsible universal column from Speedway with a 20 spline output and quick release steering wheel hub. I need to buy the u-joints and a shaft to connect the column to the steering box, hoping to dig into that this week after the column is out and I have a confirmation the new column will work.
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