Thanks and I’m glad I took the time to fix it.
I’m ready but you want to do the rubicon
maybe I’ll try old sluice.CK5
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Thanks and I’m glad I took the time to fix it.
I’m ready but you want to do the rubicon
maybe I’ll try old sluice.
I’m ready but you want to do the rubicon
Yessssss! Old sluice! Shotgun? Throw the dented fender back on!
Forgot to post a picture of the FUSH bushings, hammered enough that my shackles were rubbing the frame.
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Look’n good! 
I did Old Sluice a few years ago when I still had my Jeep.......Got high centered on a downed tree at the top and lost my front driveshaft. I made it out in RWD/2lo, but had to be pulled over a couple larger rocks right at the bottom. That was a fun night!
only way to do it in my opinion looks good dude.next up:
3) Bent spring plates
4) Replace bump stops (driveshaft was self clearancing the exhaust at full bump)
5) FUSH bushings
Earlier this year I replaced the springs (new 52's up front/used 57's out back) and put new bushings in the 57's. I noticed the ruffstuff spring plates were bending and I've struggled with springs coming loose. Ruffstuff dion't have any D60 plates in stock so I used what I had on it and did a couple more trail runs. One of my ideas was to stack plates so they stopped bending and I noticed @America.Mike did that on his K5. I went ahead and bought a couple ruffstuff D60 U-bolt/plate kits and burned them together. I also had to add the square tubing for my bump pads to land on.
also used new WFO ubolt studs since the new ones I just installed were bent already from the bent plates.
Installed with new bump stops, plates an u-bolts/studs
old bumps
19Tim69
1/2 ton status
I have a 69 K5 that was on it’s way to becoming a 2WD conversion 25 or so years ago. I bought a 52” DIY4x front spring kit. I haven’t put the front group on it yet much less go it on the road. Looks like your truck is coming along nicelyNow with 8 lug motivation I hit the PnP and scored a 14b FF with 4.10’s. While I was trying to wrangle this heavy bastard out of the 75 C10 it was under I found a guy looking for a 10bolt so he helped me remove the 14B and bought my 10 bolt for $100.
Pretty straight forward install and I was able to use the RuffStuff U bolts, plates and hardware I already had along with the 6 degree shims
Baby steps
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s411/1978scporsche/1984 K10/IMG_4003sm_zpsklosetmf.jpg
Meanwhile found a guy with a bumper/Ramsey winch for a couple hundred bucks. Turns out he needed stock bumpers so we made a trade
Next score was a 8 lug 10 bolt with 4.10’s
More DIY4x goodies (some reason I ordered two pairs of EZ-Inches)
Started to prep the 52’s off the rear of the truck for the front 52 swap, removed all the bushings, cut out the sleeves and then realized a hairline crack
Probably a good thing this happened now rather than later on the trail. Still pissed me off because I had done all that work. The next morning I hit a couple PnP’s and found a set of leafs on the back of a 75 K20 which already had the axle removed. On close inspection they appeared newer, measure out at 52” with no rust so I pulled them and brought them home.
After I gave them a bath I found plastic wrapped around them and a couple part numbers, one of which came back to a Pro Comp Part No. 13311 which are rear 52” leaf springs (2-4” lift). I later realized I was missing the 5th leaf but I wasn’t going to complain at that point.
More grinding, cutting and banging……
Primed and painted all of Kert’s parts
Drove up the hill a bit to my other favorite truck shop, WFO Concepts and picked up a pile of other parts needed for the front end swap.
4 Pro comp 932000 14” travel Shocks
F-250 Shock Towers
36” Brake Lines, banjo fittings and -3an adapters
U-Bolt kit with plates and hardware for the 10bolt/Dana44
4 degree shims
Also ordered new rear hanger poly bushings from Energy Suspension.
Front Axle rolled into place, with the EZ-Inch in the center position and no shim
ekajkrats
1/2 ton status
@skunked so did you order one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/PRC-VHC-PreCool-Animal-GEN/dp/B081VVV9B5
Or pick it up from wally world?
https://www.amazon.com/PRC-VHC-PreCool-Animal-GEN/dp/B081VVV9B5
Or pick it up from wally world?
It’s funny to read those old posts, a lot has changed since then!
lol that’s awesome. I need to get one of those!
Below are some pics from the last wheeling trip in October. The truck did well, no major issues other than the ongoing neutral issues for the cases.
This winter I’m going pull the cases in effort to figure out why the 205 front pops out of gear and why the crawl box likes to go in neutral on deceleration at speed. The other K10 project is close to “finished” so I can focus some attention back on this one.
Can’t wait to get back out there good times . I had a similar issue with my cables to my doubler when some of the mounting bolts backed off.
For the 203? My crawl box has something internal going on and I spoke with NWF so I have some ideas what it could be. Luckily it works properly on the trail in LO, it just pops out on the street (high gear) so I use a bungie cord to keep it in gear.
Yes my transfer case to trans bolts were backing off.
I remember you talking about that.
My daughter wanted to scare the soccer moms at school so I installed a new (used) LR taillight housing and two new taillight lenses. Took the kid to school this morning and drove the Animal to work. Still dirty as hell from the last trail run and the mojave heater was kicking dust all over the cab 
Why you gotta park like me?My daughter wanted to scare the soccer moms at school so I installed a new (used) LR taillight housing and two new taillight lenses. Took the kid to school this morning and drove the Animal to work. Still dirty as hell from the last trail run and the mojave heater was kicking dust all over the cab
View attachment 365454
You hate door dings too?
Yep, and I also like being able to open my door all the way without worrying about hitting someone else. I need my space haha
Took the truck to ruffstuff last Friday to grab a couple sticks of DOM.
The truck still had trail dust and crud everywhere from the last couple trips so I dropped the belly pan & pressure washed it. The next morning the truck wouldn't start, specifically the starter wasn't responding. Last summer I noticed the push button start on the Quickcar panel had to be pushed harder than normal so I figured it had something to do with that. I used my remote start and pulled the truck into the shop. A quick test with a test light confirmed the switch took a shit which is pretty common now that I've read the summit racing reviews for the replacement switch.
The truck still had trail dust and crud everywhere from the last couple trips so I dropped the belly pan & pressure washed it. The next morning the truck wouldn't start, specifically the starter wasn't responding. Last summer I noticed the push button start on the Quickcar panel had to be pushed harder than normal so I figured it had something to do with that. I used my remote start and pulled the truck into the shop. A quick test with a test light confirmed the switch took a shit which is pretty common now that I've read the summit racing reviews for the replacement switch.
With the truck in the shop I could start the process of removing the t-cases for much needed maintenance and repairs. Keep in mind this was the first time I've removed the cases from under the truck so I wasn't really sure what issues (if any) to expect. Thankfully it all went pretty smooth and I had both cases removed (together as one piece) in about an hour.
I don't know what the hell I did to that body mount
I don't know what the hell I did to that body mount
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I have separate issues with both cases however I'll start with the NWF planetary box which goes into neutral from high gear whenever I decelerate. For whatever reason it started doing this back in June of 2017 when I first installed the box and it went away until last year. Now it does it enough that I bungee cord the shifter to the cage whenever I drive off trail. It's never came out of low gear btw. A couple months ago I spoke with Kris at NWF to find out what potential issues could be causing this so I could be on the lookout during disassembly and inspection. Some of those potential issues included missing, wrong (too thin) or improperly installed snap rings, damaged shift collar and or shift fork, planetary shims missing and or damaged etc.
So the NWF case was removed from the 205
on the output side I found something immediately that wasn't right.
size reference
Output bearing retainer was removed and I verified both snap rings were in place. Apparently this was a common problem as others have forgotten to install these causing shifting problems.
Removed the output snap ring and the six bolts holding the case together so the case could be seperated
and shortly thereafter I found the origination of the debris found
So the NWF case was removed from the 205
on the output side I found something immediately that wasn't right.
size reference
Output bearing retainer was removed and I verified both snap rings were in place. Apparently this was a common problem as others have forgotten to install these causing shifting problems.
Removed the output snap ring and the six bolts holding the case together so the case could be seperated
and shortly thereafter I found the origination of the debris found
