'84 K10 The Animal- Now on Forty Two's

[skunked]

Sorry for the lost photos, slowly going through and transitioning them over to CK5 hosting.
Photobucket Can Suck a D!ck!


Specs:
84 C20 6.2L Diesel Cab
73-79 K10 Frame & Axles
454/350/203
View attachment 229942



We tried to start the truck but gas leaked pretty steadily all over one of the mufflers so we used a tractor to load the truck on the trailer.

As the truck sat I knew it had obvious issues:
Gas leak, one saddle tank worked, tires were weather cracked (right rear leaked out consistently) headlight pointed at the ground, rear axle housing was cracked and other general maintenance crap.

So I quickly found a pair of 10 bolts for 100 bucks with 3.4x gears on CL

at this point some needed maintenance with the usual snags such as an oil filter that would not f*kn come off.

and I fixed the fuel lines so they no longer leaked.

Had a load of household trash for the dump so I it's maiden voyage was to the local dump.

no spare tire so that...[/quote]

Read more about this build here...

 

[skunked]

Part 2

When my buddy bought this truck I was with him, the seller claimed it had 4.10's with a locker in the rear.

The truth

old crusty ass springs vs some F150 57" springs I bought at the local PnP

Installing the new bushings in the springs

Prepping for prime and paint

OE Rear Hanger

Now DIY4x’s installed

EZ Inch moving the axle back

RuffStuff is about ten minutes away so I ran over there for some U-bolts, plates and hardware. Gotta love those guys, even open on Saturdays!

back on the rubber after I found a couple used BFG 33’s on the cheap

 

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After more driving it started to run pretty poorly, several fuel filters later I noticed more and more crap coming up through the tank. It was clear at that point that I needed a new tank or at least clean out the tank(s) I had. In reality I didn't care for the saddle tanks and the switch didn't work (actually was missing) so I made the decision to install a K5 tank in the rear.

one tank out

I cut out the stock cross members, tire carrier, bump stops and then used angle iron to cross brace the frame and utilized the stock tank straps and the K5 skid plate.

While the bed was off I removed the 3” body lift and used new SS hardware to attach the bed to the frame.

Next up was to fix the headlights, grill and all the front end cosmetics that made it look like $hit.

Dipped the buckets in some evaporust and shot them with some paint

Bought some new headlights and hit the PnP for the missing trim around the grill, bezels, grill and shot it all black. Actually found that lower valance piece in white off a GMC, that worked out pretty good.

At this point it was driving better but the carb kept cutting out. Carbs are a bit foreign to me although I have rebuilt a couple. I tried to rebuild this one myself, it still cut out so I dropped it off at carb shop http://www.carburetorfactory.com/ Same day turnaround and $350 later the truck ran like a raped ape once again.

Did some other minor engine work such as full rebuild on the HEI distributor, plugs, wires, poly engine mounts, new master cylinder etc.

On CL I ran across a deal on some 35” BFG mounted on a set of Camper Special 16.5”x 9.75” (IIRC) rims for $250 so I jumped on those.

Couple had some minor weather cracks so I had my buddy pick up this pair down in San Jose as backups

 

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Now with 8 lug motivation I hit the PnP and scored a 14b FF with 4.10’s. While I was trying to wrangle this heavy bastard out of the 75 C10 it was under I found a guy looking for a 10bolt so he helped me remove the 14B and bought my 10 bolt for $100.

Pretty straight forward install and I was able to use the RuffStuff U bolts, plates and hardware I already had along with the 6 degree shims

Baby steps
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s411/1978scporsche/1984 K10/IMG_4003sm_zpsklosetmf.jpg
Meanwhile found a guy with a bumper/Ramsey winch for a couple hundred bucks. Turns out he needed stock bumpers so we made a trade

Next score was a 8 lug 10 bolt with 4.10’s

More DIY4x goodies (some reason I ordered two pairs of EZ-Inches)

Started to prep the 52’s off the rear of the truck for the front 52 swap, removed all the bushings, cut out the sleeves and then realized a hairline crack

Probably a good thing this happened now rather than later on the trail. Still pissed me off because I had done all that work. The next morning I hit a couple PnP’s and found a set of leafs on the back of a 75 K20 which already had the axle removed. On close inspection they appeared newer, measure out at 52” with no rust so I pulled them and brought them home.

After I gave them a bath I found plastic wrapped around them and a couple part numbers, one of which came back to a Pro Comp Part No. 13311 which are rear 52” leaf springs (2-4” lift). I later realized I was missing the 5th leaf but I wasn’t going to complain at that point.

More grinding, cutting and banging……

Primed and painted all of Kert’s parts

Drove up the hill a bit to my other favorite truck shop, WFO Concepts and picked up a pile of other parts needed for the front end swap.
4 Pro comp 932000 14” travel Shocks
F-250 Shock Towers
36” Brake Lines, banjo fittings and -3an adapters
U-Bolt kit with plates and hardware for the 10bolt/Dana44
4 degree shims
Also ordered new rear hanger poly bushings from Energy Suspension.

Front Axle rolled into place, with the EZ-Inch in the center position and no shim

 

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Checking the shock clearance, SS 36” brake lines installed

Now with the old shock mounts removed, F-250 Towers installed, new steering dampener, drag link installed.

Then I went and had the two BFG’s I picked up last installed on the front rims and the less of the weathered tires installed on my spare rim.

Picked up some 8 lug rollers for $60 so I could get the truck out of the garage

I quickly realized I had a serious issue on my hands, I couldn’t turn right. The axle location had moved back enough that it had made the drag link too short. I ended up using two of the longer halves of the drag link to make a longer link so I could turn right.

As it sits now….

Clearly need a crossover setup for this truck, this push pull crap is for the mall crawlers. Also need to figure out what I want to do with the body. It’s a 2wd cab so I can’t drop the body all the way down unless I cut the floor. I’m thinking about running the 1” ORD pucks. A serpentine belt setup is also on the to do list, nothing seems to lineup right off the crank pulley on this engine.

 

[munepit]

Awesome! Turning out to be a great rig!

 

[y5mgisi]

Subscribed!

 

[magik235]

Awesome! Turning out to be a great rig!

 

[LIVEAnimals]

Very nice so far

 

[454Sub]

Since your handy in the yards, you can pull a complete serpentine belt setup off basically any GM vehicle and walk out with it all for under 100$.

Using the newer alternator will give you more amps, but you have to wire it in or buy a special connector, no big deal and its quite simple. Remember to grab the right waterpump as well, v-belt pumps wont work.

That truck looks exactly like one I used to ride around in in HS all the time. Loved that truck. 10 years has flown by.

 

[skunked]

Thanks for the compliments guys

Since your handy in the yards, you can pull a complete serpentine belt setup off basically any GM vehicle and walk out with it all for under 100$.

Using the newer alternator will give you more amps, but you have to wire it in or buy a special connector, no big deal and its quite simple. Remember to grab the right waterpump as well, v-belt pumps wont work.

That truck looks exactly like one I used to ride around in in HS all the time. Loved that truck. 10 years has flown by.

Hitting the yards for the serpentine setup was my plan since all the kits seem overpriced in comparison to the local PnP's. The only thing I was wondering about was the alternator, I figured the wiring was a little different. I'll cross that bridge once I get the parts.

Decided to drive the truck to work today, almost ran over a prius when this dumb biaatch passed me on the outside of left hand turn

Crossover is a priority, just trying to figure out if I want to go with Heims or TRE's. Opinions?

 

[454Sub]

I prefer TRE's, as you can get them easily at a parts house. And if you search in the garage on here on how to wire up that alternator there is a step by step blog thread whatever on how its done.

And when you do it, make sure the ps pump you pull has the same fittings as the box you have or buy, there are o-ring and flare fittings. O-rings are newer, flares are older.

Buy or make ORD's weld in and bolt in braces for that crossover before you install it. Crossover will launch that box out of the fender well quite easily.

 

[78SWB]

Nice build! Gotta love a white short box . I like how you put the K5 tank on this, I will keep that in mind. Keep up with the pics

 

[Deuling]

Great work!


Keep at it!

 

[sokoloka]

Love the K5 tank in the rear. Do you have any pics of where you put the filler?
When's the body lift come out of the front half?

 

[skunked]

I prefer TRE's, as you can get them easily at a parts house. And if you search in the garage on here on how to wire up that alternator there is a step by step blog thread whatever on how its done.

And when you do it, make sure the ps pump you pull has the same fittings as the box you have or buy, there are o-ring and flare fittings. O-rings are newer, flares are older.

Buy or make ORD's weld in and bolt in braces for that crossover before you install it. Crossover will launch that box out of the fender well quite easily.

Thanks for the suggestion about the TRE's and the different hoses (had no idea about that). My frame is showing multiple repairs in the front PS area along with the crossmember having gussets. None of the work IMO is very good so I'll likely setup the crossover as is and build the other frame I have this winter. The plan is to box the frame with some real crossmembers and then I can install the 700/205 and have driveshafts made.

Nice build! Gotta love a white short box . I like how you put the K5 tank on this, I will keep that in mind. Keep up with the pics

I knew eventually I wanted rock sliders so the tanks had to go. Your truck is bad ass BTW

Great work!


Keep at it!

thanks

Love the K5 tank in the rear. Do you have any pics of where you put the filler?
When's the body lift come out of the front half?

I initially wanted to do a something slick using a filler from a K5 graft into the bed side but ultimately decided just to cut a hole in the bed and use the stock K10 filler behind the wheel well (see pic above with the 14BFF in the bed). A body lift would give more options so I'll likely revisit this once I build the other frame up. As far as removing the front cab body lift, I need to figure out if I can get away with the 1" ORD pucks. The cab is a C20 therefore it doesn't have the T-case hump in the floor that I need. Plus I want to use the 205 and I'm not sure if that will require more or less clearance? Likely try the ORD pucks for now, maybe with a side of BFH.

 

[454Sub]

The 205 might not require anything with a 1in lift if its not a flat belly your after.

 

[78SWB]

I knew eventually I wanted rock sliders so the tanks had to go. Your truck is bad ass BTW

That's one of my reasons of wanting to do the same. And thank you sir!

 

[82355]

Do the 1" body lift.

Martin

 

[skunked]

while I'm away on my business trip I'll be ordering those ORD pucks and poly mounts.

Need to figure out if I order the mounts that match the cab or frame? Frame is a 73-79 K10, Cab is a 84 C20.