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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C

Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup. 5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
He didn't say that he was dumping the manual trans, just took the pedals out..

Bluetooth clutch???

:rotfl:
I wouldn't give up now! Not this deep in!! But yea I got kinda mad.. lol next time I'll remove and mod the exiting pedal setup before I swap the pedal box again..
 
Also I cannot seem to find a diesel specific wiring diagram so I can de pin the engine harness properly. I have only been able to find the gas engine pinouts.
 
Also I cannot seem to find a diesel specific wiring diagram so I can de pin the engine harness properly. I have only been able to find the gas engine pinouts.
@mrk5 has one over in his crew cab build thread. I saved a copy of it but can't figure out how to attach it here cuz its in windows photo viewer when I open it.
 
I just had to swap out my pedals, booster & linkage, I can fully understand your frustrations with that.
 
No problem, I kept a copy too but I need to figure out how to send it and get a large version printed so I always have it.
 
Ok, got home late today from a nice weekend getaway in the big bear mountains. Stayed in a cabin with a jacuzzi.. was a good time.
Got home and promptly started on Ethel.
I got the hydro pedal mount in. I have to switch theaster cylinder support rods then I can tighten that up.
The advance adapters clutch bracket that does not fit a normal mech sm465 bell is easily modified to fit.
I actually started cutting the bell housing and realized the required cut was small enough to probably work!
It's literally to the face of the square portion or .34in
I was happier to cut the steel vs notching the bellhousing..
This is an easy mod anyone can do and I don't see the benefit to remake a bracket if this one fits.
IMG_3191.JPG IMG_3192.JPG IMG_3193.JPG

Now if I could find out what clutch fork to use, we'll be in business. There is no way with the bent arm it would work.. anyone have an idea if he hydro arms are different? IMG_3194.JPG

IMG_3196.JPG
 
Now if I could find out what clutch fork to use, we'll be in business. There is no way with the bent arm it would work.. anyone have an idea if he hydro arms are different?

Yes, the hydro arms have much less bend to them. The arm needs to match your throwout bearing, or else you'll wind up like I did (kinda functional, but not correctly adjusted).
 
Yes, the hydro arms have much less bend to them. The arm needs to match your throwout bearing, or else you'll wind up like I did (kinda functional, but not correctly adjusted).
So the simplest thing to do is buy the arm and bearing together or from the same application.
 
Make sure whatever arm you choose had the right amount of throw for the slave. I had a mess of trouble and ended up making a custom pivot ball to get it right. Used a centerforce throw out bearing and AA fork.
 
Make sure whatever arm you choose had the right amount of throw for the slave. I had a mess of trouble and ended up making a custom pivot ball to get it right. Used a centerforce throw out bearing and AA fork.
The aa kit came with the adjustable rod for this reason. I hope it works lol.
 
The aa kit came with the adjustable rod for this reason. I hope it works lol.

Do yourself a favor and make sure the fork can travel all the way back (toward the rear of the vehicle) and check if the bearing is contacting the clutch pressure plate fingers. If it is, you need a shorter bearing. If there's too much gap, you may need a longer bearing. Finding the right amount of "throw" on the fork is what i had trouble with. With the short bearing, The fork movement stopped before the clutch was fully disengaged. With a long bearing, it never was able to disengage.

I ended up shifting the fork pivot point to get things to travel correctly. I suspect the AA kit requires a centerforce clutch pressure plate to get the spacing right, but I didn't want to use it.
 
Do yourself a favor and make sure the fork can travel all the way back (toward the rear of the vehicle) and check if the bearing is contacting the clutch pressure plate fingers. If it is, you need a shorter bearing. If there's too much gap, you may need a longer bearing. Finding the right amount of "throw" on the fork is what i had trouble with. With the short bearing, The fork movement stopped before the clutch was fully disengaged. With a long bearing, it never was able to disengage.

I ended up shifting the fork pivot point to get things to travel correctly. I suspect the AA kit requires a centerforce clutch pressure plate to get the spacing right, but I didn't want to use it.
Ah that makes a lot more sense, sounds like an adjustable pivot is what I'll be ordering with the straight fork. I wasn't able to track down the dimensions of both bearings so I'll keep searching.
 

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