CK5
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84 K5: The Buzzard
- Thread starter TerryD
- Start date
Ah, that's right. The 40mm and the 20mm are similar looking cans. Think mine must be a 40mm.
Swapped the tranny cooler lines today. Realized not long ago that I had it tubed up wrong for some reason. While I was waiting on the battery to charge so I could verify that I was indeed right about it being tubed wrong, I started working on the driver's side door some. Can't remember what possessed me to take off the door panel, but once in there I repaired the mounting for the window regulator.
I decided that the door needed to be removable, so I stripped the wiring out of the door (power windows and locks) and unbolted the door. Took the grinder and cut the top out of the three top bolt holes in the hinges where I just have to remove the bottom bolts and loosen the top ones and the door lifts off. Splicing in a 4-flat wire trailer plug so the power stuff still works, minus the power locks. Just pulled out all of the stuff associated with it.
Thinking about hanging out here tomorrow instead of going with the family to a friend's mom's wedding and getting the passenger side door fixed up to remove too and finishing the wiring. Maybe take the top off and ride up the mountain.
I decided that the door needed to be removable, so I stripped the wiring out of the door (power windows and locks) and unbolted the door. Took the grinder and cut the top out of the three top bolt holes in the hinges where I just have to remove the bottom bolts and loosen the top ones and the door lifts off. Splicing in a 4-flat wire trailer plug so the power stuff still works, minus the power locks. Just pulled out all of the stuff associated with it.
Thinking about hanging out here tomorrow instead of going with the family to a friend's mom's wedding and getting the passenger side door fixed up to remove too and finishing the wiring. Maybe take the top off and ride up the mountain.
I like the removable door idea but...
I was thinking 1/2 doors but removable doors could work good.
I was thinking 1/2 doors but removable doors could work good.
I like the removable door idea but...
I was thinking 1/2 doors but removable doors could work good.
If I had another set of doors, I would consider 1/2 doors as well. I think I'm going to do tube doors though, better visibility and air flow.
I'll get better pics of the hinges when I take the doors off again. I need to paint them but I didn't have any paint laying around except yellow. Not that I'm overly concerned about the looks of this thing, but yellow is a bit far fetched at the moment I think....
Started to swap out the rear lift blocks for the add-a-leafs I've had laying around forever today. Got it jacked up, rear wheels loose and realized that I had thrown away my new spring center bolts by accident a few weeks ago. They were in a bag with some loose wire and cable I had that had wound up on the back porch. Julie asked me about it and I said it was trash and she could throw it away. 
Have to get some new this week and try again next weekend.
Have to get some new this week and try again next weekend.
Grade 8 bolts work too.
I generally use Allen head bolts. They are rated at or above grade 8 and very little grinding is needed on the heads to make them go into the spring perches.
Anyways, have not done it yet. Have not gotten bolts yet and other stuff has been going on. Oh well, not like I have much of a call to go wheeling for another month or so!
Anyways, have not done it yet. Have not gotten bolts yet and other stuff has been going on. Oh well, not like I have much of a call to go wheeling for another month or so!
Finally went wheeling again. Candy striped about 10" of my rear shaft and rounded the heads off on the rear yoke straps. Anyone think a 1330 or 1350 u-bolt style yoke for a 12b is worth the money and effort?
Well after a couple years of whining about the cam that is in it, I decided I was going to pull the engine apart and check things out this evening. Turn out the timing marks are perfect so I will be swapping in the Lunati 00016 I've had laying around and sticking it back together. Being able to set the timing should make a big difference in how the engine runs and should improve throttle response.
Alex and Kaylee helped me pull it apart. They had a good time doing it and then had a good bath before bed.
Alex and Kaylee helped me pull it apart. They had a good time doing it and then had a good bath before bed.
Good stuff man.
Keep at it
Keep at it
Teaching them something that doesn't require brushing their hair.
I had to loosen the radiator support to get the old cam out of the block and the new one in. I also had to try to find cam break in lube. I had to settle with the PermaTex Ultra Slick assembly lube. I hope it does ok. I did a quick Google search and saw some people using it but no reports of cam loss after using it.
Ordered a new harmonic balancer as well. Should have most of it together tomorrow and hope to start it Saturday.
Ordered a new harmonic balancer as well. Should have most of it together tomorrow and hope to start it Saturday.
Got the lifters and push rods in, valves adjusted (except number 8 exhaust somehow?) and the intake back on. Also, it appears that I have a mid 70s timing cover and a late 70s damper which explains my timing mark mismatch. Dad is supposed to bring me the proper timing cover for it tomorrow so I can finish it up this weekend. Coming right along, hope it all works out.
IT LIVES!! Got it all back together this evening, started, the cam break in time run and even a quick test drive after setting the timing! It runs a LOT better now with enough power to spin the tires a little and good throttle response.
I've still got a weird popping sound. I had originally thought it was spark knock seeing as I couldn't control the total timing, but it is still there. Sounds like it is coming from the bottom end at the rear of the motor. Can anyone describe what a broken flex plate sounds like?
I've still got a weird popping sound. I had originally thought it was spark knock seeing as I couldn't control the total timing, but it is still there. Sounds like it is coming from the bottom end at the rear of the motor. Can anyone describe what a broken flex plate sounds like?
If the teeth are broken off wouldn't the starter spin without turning it or make a grinding noise?
One time a bolt fell off mine and was making a popping noise. it sounded like a the dryer running with a pocket full of lug nuts in it.
Scrape,cycle, KLANK KLANK, scrape, cycle KLANK KLANK.
The bolt was bouncing around the dust shield.
One time a bolt fell off mine and was making a popping noise. it sounded like a the dryer running with a pocket full of lug nuts in it.
Scrape,cycle, KLANK KLANK, scrape, cycle KLANK KLANK.
The bolt was bouncing around the dust shield.
There was no bolt in the shield and if there was, it should be gone now that I drive it with the shield off.
I was actually thinking about the huff of the flex plate being broke out or cracked.
I was actually thinking about the huff of the flex plate being broke out or cracked.
Ok, I've had all I can stand of the pull in the steering when I apply the brakes. Can anyone give me any idea of what could be causing it? It pulls really hard to the right when you step on the brakes, so hard it gets dangerous to drive over 35mph on the road.
stuck piston or clogged line on the left side?
