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84 K5: The Buzzard

I use Superior axles on my rig. I am on 35's and 1/2 tons. They are advertised as being 30% stronger than the stock axles.
I broke one but I was being stoopid trying to climb a hill with too much speed, got some wheel hop and my detroit locker snapped it.
I feel I was being abusive on them.Totally operator error.
The good part was Superior honored the 1 year warranty and Summit replaced the part and also gave me a refund.
I would say heck yea use superior, they make a good product & back it up too.

Their website says 10yr warranty, or does ORD sell a different axle than this?
 
The warranty I was referring to was from Summit Racing. I didn't know Superior's warranty was 10 yrs.
 
I took that shaft as a "production series" shaft and apparently Superior calls that one a discovery series, so the 10 year warranty would apply.

Here is their warranty legal stuff

Thanks again man. Good talking to you on the phone today! Figured that'd be easier and faster than messing around with PM's and replies. Hope I didn't interrupt anything!

The warranty I was referring to was from Summit Racing. I didn't know Superior's warranty was 10 yrs.

You said one year, Chris said two and the web site for Superior said 10. I was like :dunno: with a little :doah: and some :confused: thrown in for good measure.


Anyways, for the next month or so till we get moved into the new house, I'm still at the mercy of my buddy's schedule as far as getting welding/fab work done on the K5. This evening he had some free time so I ran down there and we stuck together a rear bumper for it.

We started with some 2x4 box tube. Bent the ends back about 10* at frame width and cut holes for some bar to come through it to mount it.

Mounting bar/shackle tab:
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Basic main tube with my daughter:

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After that we bent up some pipe to make a step down in the middle. This did 3 things: Allow me to mount my rear license plate, give me a step to help climb into the back of it with the top off, and add some protection to the gas tank. In the future, we're planning on some tubes running just to the side and down of the tank to provide a mounting place for a heavy skid.

Here's a picture of it upside down and backwards on the welding table. It has another piece of 2x4 welded to the mounting bars to keep it straight while welding. It still needs the ends cut off and capped off. I'm also considering a pair of tubes running forward under where I cut off the body to provide something to slide on to assist in departing obstacles.

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Hope to get it done this weekend and get the axles ordered from ORD so I can take it to the local clubs Meet-n-Greet wheeling event on the 10th. Guess we'll see how that goes.... :rolleyes:





*edit: A quick note for the 14bff guys from the Poll. I appreciate where you are coming from, but a 14bff on 33's (for an undetermined amount of time) is likely to cause me more problems than not. If I decide that the 12b isn't strong enough, when I'm ready to upgrade I can get a 14bff and the 8 lug stuff for my 10b and run 37-38" tires. Until that point, I can't afford 38's, new wheels, and all the other stuff that goes with upgrading that far. I can shove some good quality 12b stuff in it and get at least a few years of good wheeling in on my 33's. Thank you for your input though!
 
We went to the flea market in Hillsville today. Mom and Dad had the oldest two girls so it was just us and the baby. Found a bunch of kids clothing and bought me a set of transfer punches that goes up to 1/2". Be handy around the shop.

Anyways, after a bit of recovery time in the house after that I ran over to my buddy's shop and worked on the bumper for a couple hours. Woulda got it done, but I wasn't paying attention and cut one end off on the wrong angle and had to weld it back on and cut it again. Bout 8:30 I packed it in. Gotta weld the other end cap on the box, drill a couple holes for the license plate and then paint it. Think I'm going to run it as-is this weekend and then paint it one day after work since it will be going to the new house permanently after the ride. :dunno:

Anyways, PROGRESS!
 
The local club went out for a trip across Pott's Jeep Trail on Sunday the 11th. We camped out over night and started out about 10:30 the next morning. Here are some pics from it:

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Some of the other rigs in attendance:

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So I finally had time (and daylight) today to work on the K5 some. After the move, the most I've done is pump up the tires and move it around a little. I've had the new axles, bearings, seals and such for a while to put the alloys in, just not the time. With holidays, moving and all that it's been hectic.

So I put it on stands this morning and pulled the old shafts out. Used the c-clip groove on the ends of the shafts to pry the old wheel seal out of the housing. With both shafts removed and the mini-spool completely removed from the carrier, a piece of 1/2" pipe went all the way through the housing. Putting a slight bend in one end, I could lay it against the inside edge of the wheel bearings and drove them out. I used a front hub nut socket turned backwards with a 1/2" extension in it to drive the new bearings and seals into place.

Next, I put some oil on the new bearings and a little grease in the lip of the new seals and slid the axles into place, reassembling the mini-spool and putting in the cross pin at this time. Then, using an open-ended lug nut, pulled the new studs into place in the flanges of the new shafts. From there it was just putting back on the drums, cover and wheels and refilling the diff with oil. Gotta put a new exhaust hanger on it tomorrow and going to give it a test drive.

As it turns out, after looking at it and thinking on it some, the old bearings were probably not bad. It appears someone put bearings, shafts and seals in once before (probably bent from overloading, common practice for wood cutters around here) and didn't have the bearings all the way seated in the housing. This caused the seals to keep pressure against the flanges and prevented the shafts from coming into the housing enough to release the c-clip w/o beating on them. Oh well, won't hurt to have new stuff in there! :waytogo:
 
Little fender trimming today!

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Not too bad for my first attempt at wheel well trimming. :dunno:

Do you guys have your outer fender skins secured to the inner shells by anything at the pinch seam in front of the door? Mine is just hanging there now that the cuts have been made and I'd rather them not flap in the wind the way the door skins did on my 76 Scottsdale.
 
I gently welded the edge.
I can't find a picture of it. Want me to go take one?
 
I gently welded the edge.
I can't find a picture of it. Want me to go take one?


No man, that'll be ok. I was just wondering if anyone secured them in any way. I will just put a bolt through it. Thanks though.

Took a little time today and moved my transmission temperature gauge off the dash pad and into the old clock spot in my gauge cluster. Didn't work out too bad. I may try something else with it when I get a new gauge bezel and some more advanced fabrication tools.

Sorry for the crappy pic. It was dark when I was taking it.

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Started gather tools for the tool box last week. I had a Stanley ~20" plastic box I had kept my tools in before, but when I bought my Craftsman tool chest, all my tools got put in it. I've been picking up a few things here and there to put together a box to have in the Jeep and K5 again, and here's what I've got so far:

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Top Row: Small yellow bag: 1/4" socket set, small black bag: std&met combo wrenches, K5 hub socket, Jeep hub socket, 20mm deep well, 13mm 12pt 1/2 drive for XJ unit bearings, 6" adjustable, 15" adjustable, 1/2" ratchet, short 1/2" breaker bar. All that goes in the large black bag.

Middle Row: Pick set, extension magnet, allen and torx folding sets, vice grips, parrot jaw Channellocks, Craftsman channel locks, 420 Channellocks, slip joint pliers, 2x 760-X U-joints (fits both K5 and XJ front shafts), leather work gloves. All this goes in the large yellow bag.

Bottom Row: Tire repair kit, magnet backed LED battery work light, Rubbermaid tub with general misc (one wheels worth of lug nuts for each vehicle, tape, gasket sealant, washers, bolts, pocket multi-meter, and other stuff), medium ball-peen hammer, misc-length of 550 cord, and 40pc Kobalt 3/8" std & metric socket set.

Here's how it goes together:

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Socket set, Misc tub and hammer in first.

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Followed by the black bag.

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Then the yellow bag, 550 cord, work light, and tire repair kit go in.

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Then the top goes on and you have a water-proof mil-spec tool box.


I've still got to pick up a couple square sockets for drain plugs, a set of screw drivers, and some wire working tools, a smaller ball-peen and a couple punches. Then I should be able to handle most break downs. Nice thing is that it will work for any of my vehicles, including the old lady's Suburban and is shaped where it's not inconvenient to pack. Weight is kinda up there, and tool boxes only get heavier, but it's still a one person carry. :waytogo:

Gotta find something to get those stickers off of it without damaging the paint. May just sand and re-paint the outside of it. Put some stenciling of my own on it.
 
Nah I like the stickers. Adds character. I really need to do this for my rig. Great idea.
 
Agreed, i like this idea too. How big is the box dimensionally?

It is 18.5" L x 8" W x 14.5" H. I've still got room in it for another one of those large bags. I have my recovery stuff in a bag like that and I may put it in there too so I've got a full truck box for all my off-road mishap needs. Then I'm just moving one large box between trucks as I take them out instead of having two separately stocked trucks.

Speaking of my recovery bag, I'll just put up a pic of it's contents too:

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Then I have a receiver d-ring shackle mount that stays under the rear seat of the Jeep since the K5 has tow hook and d-rings built into it. Both the Jeep and K5 have High-Lift jacks in them 24/7.
 
Which ammo can is that?

Asking since if anyone wants one they are usually listed by most surplus sellers and retailers by which cartridge or shell they were loaded with.
 
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