Yeah, sounds like a bad caliper or something along those lines.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
84 K5: The Buzzard
- Thread starter TerryD
- Start date
For the price of brake hoses and reman calipers, I would just replace all four.
Martin
Martin
Yeah, i think the calipers are like 15 bucks from advance.
Ok then, I'll pick them up this weekend and give it a shot. Can hurt anything! Thanks guys.
So, new cam is in and broken in and now I have valve float. Stupid getting married and not having money for toys.....
So I replaced the front calipers and hoses today and it helped some with the pull but not as much as I had hoped. You still have to correct the wheel when braking or you head to the right. I did one quick, hard stop and it went fairly straight, but a slow apply still pulls pretty good. Any other suggestions?
I set it when I replaced the tie-rod end on it. I will check it again when I get a minute and see if it is still where it should be.
Started installing the CB today. Mounted the antenna on the rear quarter panel and pulled out the dash pad to make wiring easier. I'm going to put in a 4x10 speaker in the middle factory spot and use it as an external speaker for the cb. That should make understanding it a little easier on the road over the Bogger roar.
New front speakers and the CB speaker are all installed now. I've got to grab a mono 1/8" jack from radio shack tomorrow and finish wiring the CB up. Hopefully I can get it finished up tomorrow after work.
Finished installing the CB tonight. Got it all in and wired up, even the external speaker. It all works really well. With the 4x6 in the dash, hearing it over road noise should not be a problem. SWR is 1:1 and over all I'm pretty pleased with it all.
I need to swap the tach some time and when I do that I will tidy up the wiring a bit, but I was mainly interested in getting it all going.
I'm a little worried about it getting stolen, so I may get some regular screws to attach the radio to its brackets instead of the thumb screws.
I REALLY like this thing being a beater rig. I felt no remorse cutting the holes in it to mount the antenna or drilling into the dash pad to mount the radio.
I need to swap the tach some time and when I do that I will tidy up the wiring a bit, but I was mainly interested in getting it all going.
I'm a little worried about it getting stolen, so I may get some regular screws to attach the radio to its brackets instead of the thumb screws.
I REALLY like this thing being a beater rig. I felt no remorse cutting the holes in it to mount the antenna or drilling into the dash pad to mount the radio.
The old K5 did great this weekend. My biggest problem was again, clearance under the diffs and transmission cross member.
I got a short NP208 mount off of clarkjw24 a couple months ago with the plan to clock the t-case up and build a flatter cross member. I've got a couple things to finish up in the garage before I can tear it down but I was wondering if any of you guys who have put the shorter mount on or have the shorter mount factory could get me some pictures of the cross member you have.
I got a short NP208 mount off of clarkjw24 a couple months ago with the plan to clock the t-case up and build a flatter cross member. I've got a couple things to finish up in the garage before I can tear it down but I was wondering if any of you guys who have put the shorter mount on or have the shorter mount factory could get me some pictures of the cross member you have.
did the SC4WDA brain trust have any insight on your braking/pulling problem?
Nope. I also have not checked the toe yet either. The subject kinda got dropped because it is driveable and I didn't want to tear into it and wind up having to scramble to get it together in time. I need to stick the top and doors back on it and get it ready for winter so it won't be driven very much. I'll look closer at that problem this winter. After that I'm wanting to start on some projects on it.
Clocking the t-case is the first thing on the list since the only thing I really need to get to do it is the ring. On such a short lift, I think I can clock it up quite a bit and still have plenty of travel in the front shaft and greatly improve my break over angle.
Other things I'm wanting to do are cross over steering, boat siding it and adding a family cage and seats, but those are all more expensive and will take longer to get in the works.
Clocking the t-case is the first thing on the list since the only thing I really need to get to do it is the ring. On such a short lift, I think I can clock it up quite a bit and still have plenty of travel in the front shaft and greatly improve my break over angle.
Other things I'm wanting to do are cross over steering, boat siding it and adding a family cage and seats, but those are all more expensive and will take longer to get in the works.
I have another question about clocking my t-case. On 2" of lift will the factory 3R front CV be ok at those angles? I know alot of you run 6-8" of lift with the standard t-case clocking, so I don't forsee a problem, but thought I'd ask to make sure I didn't need to try to find some more pieces before I started.
Got some slot mags and a set of 35" BFG A/Ts for street tires. Need some thin wheel spacers for the rear where the wheels don't contact the flange in the drum but hit the outer ring of it instead but I think they look pretty good on there.
That looks sweet.
Thanks, I've always wanted a set of them for it and found these local. A few hours with a scuff pad and I think they look ok.
So...
I was kinda thinking about clocking the t-case up one position before the ride Saturday, but after looking at the floors I'd have to do a good bit of bending on the floor boards and I'm not sure I want to get into that the day before I go on a ride.
