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84 K5: The Buzzard

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Sold my BFGs and Boggers. I'm looking at a set of Goodyear's MT/R with Kevlar in the 35/12.50/15 variety. I'm gonna see what kinda prices I can get on them locally.

I'm also considering 37x12.50r17s, but I'm not sure. If I get them, I'll HAVE to lift it more and regear. Are there any factory style 17" steel wheels out there in 6 lug that'll work on these trucks?
 
I just looked at some online prices and for $100 more per tire for 17" 35s and a little more than that for the 17" 37s plus having to buy wheels, I think I'm going to stick with 35s on the wheels I have.
 
How do KM2s stand up? I'm still torn on what to get. I can get LTBs reasonably but wanted something milder for more street use and less wheel swapping.
 
Even against the advice of Richcz28 and ktmoutfront, I picked up a set of 5 Goodyear MT/Rs in 35x12.50x15. I found an almost new set on Craigslist for $700. The spare still has sticker residue on the tread.

I also found another full set of factory K5 wheels in good shape. I think I'm going to weld some rock rings on them and get the MT/Rs mounted up. I have the set of CUCV wheels, but only the four so I won't be able to rotate them and if I bend one I'm SOL.
 
I know you already bought, but since you had asked.... Mutt was eating the KM2's up pretty good... great performance, but where probably gonna be a 20k tire for me.. others have reported good mileage, but they/mine seemed soft..
 
Yeah, I've heard that on heavier trucks both the KM2 and MT/Rs are 20k mile tires. I had Boggers which would probably be a 10-15k tire but I don't really drive this thing that much.

In reading reviews I couldn't see where the KM2s seemed any better than the MT/Rs. Plenty of side wall issues with both and tread wear issueswith both but lots of great reviews on both too.

I'm going to run all five in rotation so if something does happen to one, I still have a set of four 35" tires I can sell. I'd love to be able to afford another set of Boggers, but it sees way more highway use right now so I can't justify them and I'm tired of having to swap tires constantly.
 
I'm pathetic, but I am consistently so...

Made the first cut on the floors today for clocking the t-case. The plan is to weld this piece back in and use the factory seat for now, just shorten the front mounts.

I also removed the t-case skid, drive shafts and all but one of the cross member bolts. It's rusted in the sleeve and won't let the cross member come out yet. I was hoping to get the t-case on the ground tonight but got hung up on the bolt and then the kids and dog all needed run in the house so I packed it in. I sprayed the bolt so hopefully it'll come out one evening this week.

I've got to finish a 600cfm Holley rebuild and trade it for a np241 that will be going back, clocked up and hopefully with a cable shifter.

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Cross member is out. Took almost a week of soaking in Kroil and beating it with a 4 lb mini sledge but it's out now. Most of my evening was spent helping the wife cut crown moulding for the bath room and hanging a new mirror or the transfer case would be on the ground too.
 
Is the factory cross member and skid plate worth anything to try and sell?
 
Got a little more done today. Cut out more of the floor where the front output will swing up and dropped the transfercase and adapter.

I really got to a point I don't have anything to do till I get the 241 and can get it, the clocking ring and mount assembled. After that I can start on the new cross member.

I did some drive shaft research for the front and I'm not any closer to knowing what I'm going to do there yet. I may grind out the factory CV and see what I can get out of it first. Some of you guys are over 4" of lift and running clocked so I should be able to run it on my 2" lift.
 
I just finished clocking mine.

One thing I see is you may want to reroute the speedometer cable around the rear output so it doesn't get in a bind with the front driveshaft and shifter linkage.

I have a 4" lift and clocked it all the way up. I chopped the shaft and made it almost 3" longer and cut off the stops.
It's working pretty good so far.
 
Good to know. That never really occurred to me that it'd be short, I was really more worried about the CV. I'll make some measurements as I go to make sure I have enough travel.
 
Picked up a mechanical speedo NP241 and a 88 model K case 700R4 today. 700 had some water in it so I'm gonna open it up this weekend and see what it's worth but the 241 was stored inside. Its got the short adapter on it so i may have mine up for sale soon.

I'm hoping to have the 241 back in this weekend and the cross member mostly done. Then I'll have to save up for my cable shifter and start rebuilding the floors.

How much oil do you run in a clocked case? I know filling it to the plug will way over fill it but I'm not sure how much I need to keep the pump working.
 
A typical transfer case requires 5 pints (not quarts).

A full time 4wd requires 8 pints.

The NP208 calls for 10 pints.

V15/10, V25/20- 10.4 pints

V35/30-5.0 pints

Reference: Chiltons GM 80-87 fluid capacities chart.

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Thanks! Got some done today. Progress is in my t-case clocking thread though.
 
Case is back in. Gotta sort the shifter out and get floors built back now.

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