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84 turbo diesel suburban

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The relay for the glow plugs is bad.
I am bypassing it to start.
It runs pretty good now, it drives well too looks like the transmission is still good.
I changed the mc and one front brake line that was leaking and I have brakes but not assisted.
Still working on bleeding the hydro boost.
I pulled quick on flat in 2nd gear and got the turbo up to 7psi.
Now it's a matter of cleaning up the wiring and then cleaning the interior.
Headlights, heater, electric windows and locks don't work, guessing a feed wire is bad.
I will work on the electrical and then take care of the shocks and she will be on the road.
 
imiceman44 said:
The relay for the glow plugs is bad.
I am bypassing it to start.
It runs pretty good now, it drives well too looks like the transmission is still good.
I changed the mc and one front brake line that was leaking and I have brakes but not assisted.
Still working on bleeding the hydro boost.
I pulled quick on flat in 2nd gear and got the turbo up to 7psi.
Now it's a matter of cleaning up the wiring and then cleaning the interior.
Headlights, heater, electric windows and locks don't work, guessing a feed wire is bad.
I will work on the electrical and then take care of the shocks and she will be on the road.
Click to expand...

Fantastic news.
 
AugustDiesel said:
Fantastic news.
Click to expand...
Now I am dealing with the same thing you did with the hydro boost.
I can't seem to bleed it right, unless it's bad and I need to replace it. :confused:
I am using atf instead of power steering fluid because it already was that way.
I am thinking about changing the hydro boost and flushing the power steering pump and putting power steering fluid.
What say the brotherhood?
 
imiceman44 said:
Now I am dealing with the same thing you did with the hydro boost.
I can't seem to bleed it right, unless it's bad and I need to replace it. :confused:
I am using atf instead of power steering fluid because it already was that way.
I am thinking about changing the hydro boost and flushing the power steering pump and putting power steering fluid.
What say the brotherhood?
Click to expand...

Seems sensible to me. Perhaps the wrong type of fluid caused damage to the hydroboost? I’m not sure. But worth a shot.
 
If you're running a good ATF like say Amsoil, it's rated to be used as power steering fluid.

It can be a bitch to bleed the hydro boost as both you and August have found out. Just have to keep trying it.
 
So 1 step forward and 2 steps back.
I started having trouble starting and checking the glow plugs shows they are mushroomed. :doah:
Should have changed them from the beginning but figured Colby had them for a while and they still looked good. :dunno:
Well now I have to figure out how to get them out, ALL 8 of them. :doah:

Still having a problem bleeding the hydro boost, not going down anymore but still not able to steer and brake. It's also very squishy while breaking.
Maybe a new booster.
Already have a new master, I might as well
 
imiceman44 said:
So 1 step forward and 2 steps back.
I started having trouble starting and checking the glow plugs shows they are mushroomed. :doah:
Should have changed them from the beginning but figured Colby had them for a while and they still looked good. :dunno:
Well now I have to figure out how to get them out, ALL 8 of them. :doah:

Still having a problem bleeding the hydro boost, not going down anymore but still not able to steer and brake. It's also very squishy while breaking.
Maybe a new booster.
Already have a new master, I might as well
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, I have had my P/S systems apart several times without requiring any special bleeding procedure. I'm not sure why it sometimes does require extensive bleeding, but if you've done all the steps I'd start looking at the booster. Do you have power steering? The booster is prioritized, it should always be the first thing that starts working. Even if the fluid runs low, it should be the most functional part, not the least.

If the whole system is non-operational 100% of the time, keep bleeding.
 
imiceman44 said:
So 1 step forward and 2 steps back.
I started having trouble starting and checking the glow plugs shows they are mushroomed. :doah:
Should have changed them from the beginning but figured Colby had them for a while and they still looked good. :dunno:
Well now I have to figure out how to get them out, ALL 8 of them. :doah:

Still having a problem bleeding the hydro boost, not going down anymore but still not able to steer and brake. It's also very squishy while breaking.
Maybe a new booster.
Already have a new master, I might as well
Click to expand...

Worst case for the glow plugs is removing the injector and extracting the broken tip out through the larger hole. It's inconvenient, but still manageable. And that's assuming you can't force the tip out the normal hole.

Let that be a lesson on the folly of using expandable glow plugs. Yes, I too learned this the hard way. :doah:
 
campfire said:
Worst case for the glow plugs is removing the injector and extracting the broken tip out through the larger hole. It's inconvenient, but still manageable. And that's assuming you can't force the tip out the normal hole.

Let that be a lesson on the folly of using expandable glow plugs. Yes, I too learned this the hard way. :doah:
Click to expand...
I didn't try for too long but I tried to get a feel for it and it is a sharp edge unlike previous case I had a decade ago where it was wedged and working it for a few minutes it squeezed out.
The driver side will be relatively easy to get the injectors out, the turbo side will be the challenge :doah:
 
imiceman44 said:
I didn't try for too long but I tried to get a feel for it and it is a sharp edge unlike previous case I had a decade ago where it was wedged and working it for a few minutes it squeezed out.
The driver side will be relatively easy to get the injectors out, the turbo side will be the challenge :doah:
Click to expand...

Oh. This is the ATS kit, isn't it?

That job is going to suck. :doah: :doah:
 
So I broke off the glow plug thinking I will pull it through the injector hole.
Well the tip wasn't as brittle as I thought it was and it pulled out of the fitting leaving a long piece in the tunnel too long to come out.
I tried to bend it break it twist it.
No way it's coming out of there easily. And that's the easiest one.
I decided I am taking the heads off.
...

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Well the heads are off, but I see it's not going to be easy.
I thought I had more access but the precup is in the way.
It might be time to upgrade to the biggest cups.
@AgDieseler ?
Also it's good I opened it because there were some head bolts that were not tight, same with the the rocker assembly bolts.
And now I will have access to everything and put it together in the right order, routing the wires the best way.
I also have access to the water pump, Colby had changed it but it sat for 7 years, I think I better change it now?
Also the turbo exhaust manifold is rubbing against the passenger shock mount, should I shim the motor mounts, I will check the height but I am sure that they are the right ones which are the tallest style.
Now comes the biggest question:
I have a set of felpro head gaskets, and I was looking at head bolts I was going to get the arp studs but they are 4x the regular tty bolts, is it worth it?
And is there a better head gasket?
 
I used Felpro +.030” thickness head gaskets on mine and they do what they are supposed to. Are you going to R&R the heads while they are off?
 
imiceman44 said:
and I was looking at head bolts I was going to get the arp studs but they are 4x the regular tty bolts, is it worth it?
Click to expand...

IMO they are vital! Especially if you go with the thicker gaskets. Thicker gaskets have more surface area pushing on the fire ring, the much higher clamping forces the head studs provide are cheap insurance for the job.
 
+1 on the thicker head gasket. Consider ARP studs while you’re at it - $250 is cheap insurance (but I’ve run TTY bolts exclusively to this point without a problem).

There are three precups to choose from:
  • standard 6.2 (economy, smallest)
  • Turbo 6.5 (markedly larger, made to balance power and economy)
  • Diamond (power, largest)
Each one will change the compression slightly. If you’re keeping the boost regularly below 10psi and prefer off-idle grunt, the economy chambers do that very well. I have the diamond cups, and before using this latest turbo, wished many times for the 6.5 turbo cups. With the ATS turbo, consider staying with the small cups. The TEO6H would pair nicely with the turbo ones. An HX35 or better running in its sweet spot (10-20psi) is needed to make full use of the diamonds.

David
 
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AgDieseler said:
+1 on the thicker head gasket. Consider ARP studs while you’re at it - $250 is cheap insurance (but I’ve run TTY bolts exclusively to this point without a problem).

There are three precups to choose from:
  • standard 6.2 (economy, smallest)
  • Turbo 6.5 (markedly larger, made to balance power and economy)
  • Diamond (power, largest)
Each one will change the compression slightly. If you’re keeping the boost regularly below 10psi and prefer off-idle grunt, the economy chambers do that very well. I have the diamond cups, and before using this latest turbo, wished many times for the 6.5 turbo cups. With the ATS turbo, consider staying with the small cups. The TEO6H would pair nicely with the turbo ones. An HX35 or better running in its sweet spot (10-20psi) is needed to make full use of the diamonds.

David
Click to expand...
Ok so I think I will stay with the same cups and stick with tty bolts.
As for the cups can I remove them to get the tip of the glow plugs out and just put them back in or I have to get new ones?
I could get the tips out another way if so but it is more complicated.
And those heads were rebuilt by Colby not many miles ago and they are good, if I didn't mess up with the glow plugs I would be driving it no and enjoying it.
 
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