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85 Suburban. Back in the shop

In fact. Yes. There is some wood in the picture.

Hey. I was wondering what everyone uses for cross member bolts or transmission mounting hardware. A few questions for those who have done this before. Mounting a tcase with out a ratchet strap next time...ha.

I do have an ace headware, lowes, home depot or even a BigR (tractor supply) type place within a stone throw of my house or my shop. They all have a great assortment of nuts and bolts. Even lock washers and locking nuts. I'm wondering if I should use a lock nut with a lock washer...and of course a flat washer underneath everthing. :dunno:There will be some definite vibrations from the engine and trans and the last thing I want to do is have to retighten those mounting bolts all the time. I know the factory used 3 wedge lock nuts in many cases but I don't feel the need to hunt those down.

On that note. Is grade 5 strong enough or should I just go ahead and get grade 8, or stronger? The frame would have to be redrilled anyways so I can make it whatever size I want. GM had four bolts holding crossmeber to the frame. I'm at a point I can add more mounting holes just to be safe. Especially with the added torque of the doubler tcase in 4L 4L I don't want to take any short cuts.
 
Skip all the BS and re-tap to metric and use 10.9 bolts. and screw thiose hardware stores, Fastenal is the only place for quality stuff. Oh and its 4LL not 4L 4L :whistle::thumb:. And its not going anywhere anytime soon, I thinks it's one-with-the-lift now
63chevyll said:
In fact. Yes. There is some wood in the picture.

Hey. I was wondering what everyone uses for cross member bolts or transmission mounting hardware. A few questions for those who have done this before. Mounting a tcase with out a ratchet strap next time...ha.

I do have an ace headware, lowes, home depot or even a BigR (tractor supply) type place within a stone throw of my house or my shop. They all have a great assortment of nuts and bolts. Even lock washers and locking nuts. I'm wondering if I should use a lock nut with a lock washer...and of course a flat washer underneath everthing. :dunno:There will be some definite vibrations from the engine and trans and the last thing I want to do is have to retighten those mounting bolts all the time. I know the factory used 3 wedge lock nuts in many cases but I don't feel the need to hunt those down.

On that note. Is grade 5 strong enough or should I just go ahead and get grade 8, or stronger? The frame would have to be redrilled anyways so I can make it whatever size I want. GM had four bolts holding crossmeber to the frame. I'm at a point I can add more mounting holes just to be safe. Especially with the added torque of the doubler tcase in 4L 4L I don't want to take any short cuts.
Click to expand...
 
Hmm. Ill have to look into a larger metric tap and die set. I have a smaller set with 5 x .80 taper5 x .90, 6 x 1.00, 7 x 1.00, 8 x 1.25 plug and smaller. Up to now I've never broken a metric bolt. So that's a good idea.
I've always thought it would be useful to have a metric set nowadays. Especially since most newer vehicles have been using mm style bolts. I have a visit with the snap-on dealer later this week. MAybe ill see what he has on the truck. I've been wanting to see what they have for big torque wrenches also.
 
Cool thanks. Im actually ready to have some drivevshaft built now. Sldo progess for me but still some movement forward is better than none
 
Well. It took a month after I wanted but I got the rear shaft for now

Its 57 1/4 long 1410s with all new spicer parts

Bills Englewood drive shaft does great work.

He has a built.suburban also

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63chevyll said:
Well. It took a month after I wanted but I got the rear shaft for now

Its 57 1/4 long 1410s with all new spicer parts

Bills Englewood drive shaft does great work.

He has a built.suburban also
Click to expand...

super speedy expedited delivery though........
 
Sucks its been two months since any updates but tonight there was progress tonight.

The TNA crossmeber is, painted, and installed. Along with the comp mounts.

Two things,
one..im.glad I did the crossmember before my trans/doubler crossmember final weld up. The engine was crooked even with new mounts I put in last year sometime. The new crossmember centered everything up real nice. Measured and center of engine is center of frame...hmm, I always thought they were offset to the pass side a little bit.

Two...this thing was a bitch to put it. The frame moves, the rails kicked out. The upper triangular bracket bolts were tight to get at. Had to drill a hole, use a Porto power and a 3/8 turn buckle..but, its done and I dont plan.on taking out anytime soon.

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Good to see progress. How long until you think it will be wheelable? I would like to wheel with you guys sometime :thumb:
 
I hooe to be very soon. June at the latest. I have everything needed. But still need a long splinr.front shaft. Feels good to make progress
 
Damn, my crossmember was a little bit of work to install but nothing like that. I'm glad I had my sub torn down to the frame when I did mine. The hardest part was reaching all the bolts.
 
Ok,.trans and.tcase is in. New driveshaft in.

I pulled the pan on the TH400 to put a new gasket on it. I shoulda grabbed a filter also..oh well.

Next on the too do list.
Track bar mount on the front axle
Bump stops.

I specifically want to do the bump stops.before I do the shock mounts and make sure my shocks are long enough.
The list never ends. But so much of this build had certain things had to be done before other things were done. That and only being able to work on it 3 hours in last 4 days pisses me off also.
 
Well the Big One runs tonight. First time starting in over 6 months.
Ended up re routing the hot wires from the starter, and put a shift kit in the trans..seemed the pain in the.ass stuff was hardest to get motivated for.

Either way, the next few things will be funner to.do
 
Been driving around the shop a little bit just for fun. Havent had the time to take the lift for a few days. But today got some things done. Have a deadline I want to make.

Added the zero rate and a different lower spring. The spring feels way better with my cut one. Seems better a near as soft and zero tire rub on inner fender anymore...which was a problem with 40s and the 56's

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