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'86 chevy on rocks-2-14 Dovetailed bed!!

54inches said:
It is looking great!
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Thanks. The motors are really so much easier than I thought that it would be to wire up. It is really only 3 wires that need to be powered and 2 that get grounded and thats it.

Got a question for someone that may knows. On the back of the alt. there are 2 wires. One that plugs in that is pink with a black wire strip that just get 12 volts. I am assuming that is what control regualtor maybe?? Then there is a stud on the back with a nut that I am assuming is where the power that the alt creates is sent out?
 
Yea your right the lug on the back of the alt is the output wire and the larger of the two in the connector needs 12 volts. The small wire is a lamp control wire for the batttery light in the dash. 9 times out of ten it will charge just fine without the small wire hooked up but the other two need 12 volts. Make shure you use good size wire on the output 8 or 10 guauge will be fine. What a beast lookin good!
 
tvonloss said:
Yea your right the lug on the back of the alt is the output wire and the larger of the two in the connector needs 12 volts. The small wire is a lamp control wire for the batttery light in the dash. 9 times out of ten it will charge just fine without the small wire hooked up but the other two need 12 volts. Make shure you use good size wire on the output 8 or 10 guauge will be fine. What a beast lookin good!
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There are only 2 wires going to the alt. On that was a plug and one that connect to the stud on the back. I got the looking through the harness and the one that connected to the stud wasn't hooked to anything. The wire was cut. I am pretty sure it went to the battery though. So I hooked up the wire from my stock harness that was on the bad of the old alt to it. IT runs from that stud to the block on the firewall that gets 12V all the time. I will hook up my battery guage in the cab to the other spot and see if that works.
 
Well I have been working on the truck quite a bit lately. Trying to get it done before new years for a trip to gilmer. I am working on flipping the hubs in and gonna turn the wheels around so that I will get about 6"s wider stance and think that will help out a lot. I ordered my stainless steel twin stick shifters for the 205. I wont have time to take the t-case apart and grind the rails but I will at least be able to put the truck in 2lo. I also ordered a 1410 yoke for the rear output on the t-case. For the front I am gonna have to build a adapter to go from whatever it is now to a 1410 flange. It is pretty expensive to get a 1410 yoke put on the front output because you have to replace the front output shaft with a dodge or ford one so that it would be a 32 spline shaft. I may replace it later on but for now I will build a adapter. I am going in the morning to pick up a bunch of metal to finish up my front crossmember, build a tranny and t-case crossmember, and also the metal to mount my rock sliders and build the rear suspension. So I should start making some good progress in the next few weeks.
 
hey i have that same exact surp belt setup on the front of my big block. You wouldnt happen to know a part number or size for the belt without the bottom passenger side pump?
 
brunok5 said:
hey i have that same exact surp belt setup on the front of my big block. You wouldnt happen to know a part number or size for the belt without the bottom passenger side pump?
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I can get it for you. I tryed to remove the smog pump and a/c compressor but I needed a grooved pulley on the left side of the motor so I put the compressor back on. The belt would be easier to get on if it was 1/2" longer so I will get the part number and then just tell them you need one 1/2"-1" longer and they should be able to hook you up. I am gonna buy a spare to keep with me and it will be just a bit longer.
 
Well I worked on the truck a couple more hours last night and I got the front hubs flipped in. That was really a bigger project than I thought it would be. The rear will be a lot easier. On the front you have to cut off about half of the damn wheel stud to clear the bolt holding the spindle to the knuckle.

I also went this morning and picked up all the metal I need to build the rear suspension, mount the steering cylinder and orbital valve, and also finish up my rock sliders so I should have plenty to do this weekend if the whether permits. I ended up spending $250 on just metal.
 
Well I have been doing a lot of work on the truck this week. I got the plate that holds the steering cylinder tacked onto the axle. Built the t-case crossmember and then crossmember that the trailer ball will be mounted to for the rear suspension. I am gonna go tommorow and use a 220 Miller welder to weld up the crossmembers. Once I get that done I can bolt them back on for good and then I will start on the rear suspension. I was able to push the t-case up quite a bit since I have a body lift. The two crossmember are the lowest point under the belly. I may end up building a skid betwen them but dont think that I will really need it since I have so much clearance. I got my hiems and bushing to make a trac bar for the rear and a radius are for the front to control axle wrap. For the front radius arm it will have a mount on top of the driver side of the axle and the lower mount will be on the rear of the plate that the steering cylinder is mounted on. I also got my 1410 yoke for the rear of the t-case and I got another fuse block that will be wired up to where it will only get power when the key is on. It will be used to power the PCM, ignition coil, lights, and fans.
New stance with the hubs flipped in and the wheels turned around. It got a little bit wider.
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Here you can see how close it is to the wheel studs. You have to cut off about the inside half of the stud to clear those bolts holding the spindle.
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Before
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New stainless steel twin stick shifters
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Even came with a boot for the floor.
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Orbital valve mounted up.
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Steering cylinder plate tacked to axle. I will still be trimmed up smaller. I am not for sure exzactly where all the braces are gonna be so I left the plate a little bit bigger and will cut some off later.
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T-case crossmember. The end pieces are made from 1/2" plate. I went ahead and made it out of 1/2 because the 2"X3" tubing isnt actually up aganst the bottom of the frame rails so if it doest land on a rock it would of just bent 1/4" plate.
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The bolt that hold the t-case to the crossmember are inside the tubing.
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I used a set of daystar factoyr 205 mounts but when they are used on a stock crossmember half goes on the bottom of the crossmember and the other half goes on top. Well I just stacked them together and bolt it all up and it worked out great.
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This is the rear crossmember that will have the trailer ball mounted to.
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I took a piece of 3/8" plate under the ball to help strengthen it up. The tubing is 2"X3" 1/4" wall. There will be a lot of stress put on the ball so I figure it would be a good idea to put the 3/8" plate there too and have it weld on there. All of the rear axle and tires will be pulling on that ball.
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Tommorow I will be ordering my shocks. Just gonna get a set of pro comp 15" travel shocks. Then all I will have left to buy is power steering lines, brake lines, and exhaust. I also had to order a new set of header. With the long tube headers that I already had they hang down to low and are in the way of everything and just arent gonna work. So I started searching for some shorty headers for a 454 in a truck. Well they dont offer them. So I was looking at a pic of some monte carlo ones on summit and it looks like they will work perfect so I odered them last night. Bad thing is they wont ship out until wednesday so I probably wont be getting them til next week.
 
Nice work. Amazes me to see people actually making progress on their rigs.

Okay, so use little words for me...what part does the trailer ball play in the suspension?
 
AJMBLAZER said:
Nice work. Amazes me to see people actually making progress on their rigs.

Okay, so use little words for me...what part does the trailer ball play in the suspension?
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I figured I would have to explain that. I havent seen anyone on the forums use that suspension set up. Have you ever heard of a ball and socket? There is a company called longview drivline here in texas that sells them. This is real similar to that if you know what that is. Basicaly the 2 and 5/16ths ball is mounted to that crossmember. Then I will have a 2 and 5/16ths bulldog hitch that will go on it and the rear link bars will actually be welded to that hitch and to the axle. With that bars welded to the axle there will be no axle wrap. So all I will need is a trac bar to control the side to side movement. Normally with this set up what you see people do is mount the ball pointing down and have the hitch on hanging down. Well I am doing mine different. THe ball is pointing to the back of the truck. Once the hitch is over the ball it will be welded up so that it can not unlock but it will have the full range of slide around the ball. I will get some more pics of how it will be tommorow. It will make more sense once I start to get the link bar on there.
 
Yeah hook us up w/ some pics when you get a chance... I think I'm visualizing what you're saying but I'm not really sure since this is the first time I've heard of something like that...
 
here's a pic of it mounted:

Just imagine those two rectangular tubes on the right continue to the axle and are welded to the rear axle.
 
Yeah that is deffinatley a fancier and probably more expensive version. That does look good. Real the only thing bad about using a trailer ball and hitch is it will make some noise. But I will have a grease fitting on the hitch so I will be able to keep it greased so maybe it wont be to bad.

Who makes that one that you have pictured?
 
He's on pirate, just recently had a giveaway for one of these. They are $250 and they also have a mounting plate for $30. www.4x4laurentides.com is his website. He goes by the name ericrunner on pirate. Also have you seen the frankenheim that evolution machine sells?
 
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