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'86 chevy on rocks-2-14 Dovetailed bed!!

I like what you're doing man. Looks good. Can't give any advice cuz you're way more talented than me:bow:, but keep it up man and I hope it all starts falling together:waytogo:
 
robert97dodge said:
I am going too. I just havent had time. The suspension is so soft just driving around the truck leans enough to both sides that the tires chew up the fenders.
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i know how that is, its mostly cuz you dont have shocks on it yet, once u do it will settle down
 
Got flex? Today I brought the truck up to my buddies shop for a customer appreciation day they had and parked my truck on a RTI ramp. It did really good. I still dont have everything completely done but it still pulled right up there with just front wheel drive. Also I noticed a new problem. The leaf springs are hitting the steering when flexxed out so I am gonna have to do something else on the front end. Here are some pics.
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Wait...I should show that thing to the mud guys up here. The mud truck formula up here is tall and stiff as a board.
 
I think I may try to do something like this soon.

Did you rebuild the rockwells?

I'm thinking about moving the front tires forward so that they stick out of the front of the body

I might be able to get the tires and wheels for free too because my friends dad is an army mechanic
 
howdiy said:
I think I may try to do something like this soon.

Did you rebuild the rockwells?

I'm thinking about moving the front tires forward so that they stick out of the front of the body

I might be able to get the tires and wheels for free too because my friends dad is an army mechanic
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All I did on the rockwells was pull the diffs and weld up the gears. Then I just repacked the bearing and put it all back together. One of the days when I get the extra money I will be some high clearance diff covers too.
 
Just to update everyone. I did some more flexing to see how far I could go until the springs hit the steering and when I pull up one something forward it doesnt hit. But when I back up something and all the weight is transfered to the left front that is what was causing it to hit so I really souldnt have to worry about it hitting to often. I will go ahead and add a bumpstop in case I do get in a situation where it might hit.

I put about 9 hours into the truck yeseterday. I got the rear of the frame cut off where I wanted it and also made the link bar for the front to control the axle wrap. I used 1.5" .250 wall DOM tubing for the link bar and the 2 hiems are 3/4" chromoly and the upper has a high misalignment spacer on it. I also got my exhaust done last week. It ended up taking him about half day and it turned out ok. THere really wasnt much room for him to run the exhaust. He ended up having to cut the ball and socket off of the header on the driver side so that he could start the tubing higher up. Then he added a slip joint after the first bend.

Still have to box in the ends of the front and rear 4x4 crossmember on the truck and brace up the trac-bar mount on the axle end but other than that it is just about ready. And still need to plumb the brakes. THe front just has a temporary hard line ran to it.

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I mounted the frame mount of the link bar on top of the crossmember under the t-case. It has a shackle on it so that when the suspension goes down it will still let it go forward.

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For some reason the truck looks extremely wide in this pic.

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howdiy said:
How does it compare price wise to a 60/14 bolt swap?
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Depends on what you are wanting to do with the truck and what size tires you are wanting to run. If you run rocks on the street you have to spend about $2K on disk brakes instead of the $150 or so for pinion brake like I got. Also with a D60 and 14BFF you will most likely need to regear them. Rocks have 6:72 gears already. They both have there pros and cons but for a strictly trail rig it is usually cheaper to go with rocks.
 
The exhaust had to have a y-pipe and go into one pipe before the t-case. THere is not enough room to under the transmission so it had to bend and go forward and under the motor like it does. This is the 3rd truck he has had to do like this that I know of. One is a '85 blazer with TBI350 and the other is a '93 suburban that we swapped in a vortech 454 in and by the time you get a stakIII or double t-case in there and brace it all there isnt usually room to run exhaust down both sides.
 
robert97dodge said:
Depends on what you are wanting to do with the truck and what size tires you are wanting to run. If you run rocks on the street you have to spend about $2K on disk brakes instead of the $150 or so for pinion brake like I got. Also with a D60 and 14BFF you will most likely need to regear them. Rocks have 6:72 gears already. They both have there pros and cons but for a strictly trail rig it is usually cheaper to go with rocks.
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Thats why I was kind of thinking

But instead of full hydro do you think a stock box and a crossover would work? Just for mud right now, until I can afford the hydro setup. I think a lot of trucks down here in FL are running stock steering only.

And it would be trail only, and 46" Michelin's


Another question if you don't mind, How is the steering radius compared to stock? I heard it was decreased
 
howdiy said:
Thats why I was kind of thinking

But instead of full hydro do you think a stock box and a crossover would work? Just for mud right now, until I can afford the hydro setup. I think a lot of trucks down here in FL are running stock steering only.

And it would be trail only, and 46" Michelin's


Another question if you don't mind, How is the steering radius compared to stock? I heard it was decreased
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Definately decreased!! It steers easier with just the front pulling because pull the truck. If you just have the rear pulling then it tends to just push the whole truck in a straight line instead of turning. Also if you are gonna use the stock steering I would at least get a TSC steering ram and put hydro assist on there.
 
the only thing is the rear bumper attachemnt to the frame, you could have put the 4x4 square tube in between the frame rails and made it alot stronger and had more surface to weld on.


killer project though:D
 
carpeonnel said:
Are you still getting the real bad lean when you turn, or did your shocks correct it?
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Still leans pretty good but the shocks helped some. It is just so soft. When I am sitting still I can turn the tires all the way to the left and it pushes the body over a few inches. And the turn it all the way to the right and it pushes the body the other direction a few inches.
 
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