CK5
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86 Coal Burner ...

why ? I'm not gonna really be hardcore wheeling... did all that , and broke tons with the yota in my youth ... this is more for going down dirt roads finding cool camping and fishing spots ... throw my guest bedrooms top mattress in the back, cooler, camper gear and some rods and reels and giddee up and enjoy it ... the whole reason I got this , was it was big enough to sleep in.... so done with tents ...so just fix the steering box / draglinks, etc. do a little to the interior and go .... I so need it ... I've been working pretty much straight since Christmas ... and really the last time camping was last July ... so I'm camping deficient right now ... lol

It is just a better design, and steers better. Not required though.

Martin
 
so gonna save some bucks for the steering and just go ahead and replace what I have already...

I also need to get at least front shocks and maybe all four .... what brand makes the best for a 6" lift on these K20's ??? so obviously a longer shock ...
 
Question ?

Noticed the alt gauge ... goes up from at idle 13 volts to almost at high rpms 18 volts ... when I left off the accelerator it drops back down ... Is this something to worry about or is this normal ?
 
Noticed the alt gauge ... goes up from at idle 13 volts to almost at high rpms 18 volts ... when I left off the accelerator it drops back down ... Is this something to worry about or is this normal ?

This is not normal. My first guess is that the regulator in your alternator is misbehaving. Charging voltage for 12V lead-acid batteries is about 13.8 volts. A properly behaving alternator will produce a steady voltage that's just a bit higher than this (14V or so), regardless of engine speed. So your only voltage variation should be when your engine isn't running (you'll see the battery voltage of 12V-12.5V). If it's actually running at 13V during idle, your battery is not getting charged. And it should never get up to 18V. Checking your voltage readings with another voltmeter should tell you how accurate the meter on your dashboard is. But the voltage variation tells me that something is amiss either way.
 
it has 2 batteries ...

it has 2 batteries which I assume that it needs 24 volts to start then runs at 12 volts ? they are both brand new ....Does it require a different alternator withe the 2 batteries ?
 
They are wired in parallel, not series. It is a 12 volt system, with a standard alternator.

The military trucks had a bastardized 12v/24v system.

Martin
 
but does bounce alot on the road over minor bumps ... which i assume are the shocks ...

If it's "harsh" over small bumps - that's what lift kit springs will do for you - especially if they are Rancho or Rough Country brand. If it bounces multiple times after hitting a single bump, that's wasted shocks. If you do need to replace the shocks and want improved ride quality, consider Bilstein monotubes. But it will never ride great with stiff springs.
 
ok thanks Martin ! that makes sense... so I'll fix it next week, when I have some more time off ... thankfully this isn't my daily driver...

thanks Blue 85 ...
the bounce does seem to pogo a little after the bump... when I had my lifted solid axle yota it rode smoother, so I was assuming the shocks , were bad... and I did look at the bilsteins ... as the probable replacement
 
finally getting back to thinking about shocks and a double steering stabilizer

I'm pretty set on Bilsteins for shocks , but also wondered about Rancho RS5000's and especially wondered ... Is there any benefit to getting coil over shocks ?

I also assume certainly best to replace both fronts, but was thinking replacing all four as well as it currently has a dual stabilizer... so I assume a dual is the best ?

latest updates... finally replaced the steering column, got down to the ( 4 bolts) and was still way loose, so the whole column was bad, and replaced with a rebuilt one , where the ( 4 bolts) were put back in with red lock tight.

Also replaced the steering box... the adjuster nut on the top of the old one had already been adjusted from the previous owner... so a rebuilt box went on.

I also replaced the alternator, cause it would run at 13 volts at idle, but when running at 65 mph would read 18 volts... so a rebuilt one went on.

so here in the next week or so , I'll be doing the 4 shocks and steering stabilizer and my question above ... Are Coilovers worth it ???

Thanks for your help !
 
Do not do coil overs shocks. Shocks are not supposed to bear weight.

Do you have quad shocks on the front? If so, only running a single, longer shock, using the upper auxiliary mount.

Dual stabilizers are for showing your 80's pride, really nothing else. A single steering stabilizer, in the stock position is good enough.

Martin
 
Do not do coil overs shocks. Shocks are not supposed to bear weight.

Do you have quad shocks on the front? If so, only running a single, longer shock, using the upper auxiliary mount.

Dual stabilizers are for showing your 80's pride, really nothing else. A single steering stabilizer, in the stock position is good enough.

Martin

Ha Ha .. on the 80's pride deal !!! so single is good for the stabilizer even running larger tires / 6" lift ? ! Cool

No I have 1 shock per location and it looks like their older rs9000's... so hopefully the Bilstein 5100's will be the ticket !
 
I don't need new shocks !!! Doh ! ha ha

I looked at them , and there Rancho 9,000's and although there not Bilsteins , I decided to look at the adjuster knob on them ... the front two were set on their stiffest setting and the back 2 ... one was on stiff one was on soft ... doh ... no wonder it pogo-ed and rode like sheeeit !!! ha ... there all on the softest setting now ... wow what a difference ! doesn't ride like a Cadillac, but in comparison to before it kinda does ! the guy before must have been a dumb a$$ ! ;)

I bet my steering stabilizers are fine too ... just the bushings are smoked ... I assume I can get just the bushings ???
 
rancho is sending me free bushings ...

So I called Rancho... and they said they didn't have urethane bushings per say for the steering stabilzers , and that I wouldn't want them anyway, since they'd be too stiff ... so he sending me a set for free of rubber bushings !!! Cool !
 
now I need a set of front leafs ...

any preference on make of 6" springs , or the cheaper the better , etc. ?, also gonna swap out for steel braided brake lines.

Question any worries swappin' springs ( since they hold the truck up ) just jack stand the front axle I assume and swap them out right ?

and I almost want to do the rear springs as well , cause they have that stupid block ... but there ride height fine ... my fronts are saggin' pretty bad ... would like it to be level ...
 
any preference on make of 6" springs , or the cheaper the better , etc. ?, also gonna swap out for steel braided brake lines.

Question any worries swappin' springs ( since they hold the truck up ) just jack stand the front axle I assume and swap them out right ?

and I almost want to do the rear springs as well , cause they have that stupid block ... but there ride height fine ... my fronts are saggin' pretty bad ... would like it to be level ...

Assuming that you are also going to jack-stand the truck, that's about it, assuming you're not modifying anything. U-bolts should get special care. If they are rusting or damaged, throw them away. If the threads are banged up, throw them away (gnarly threads require additional torque to reach the same level of tension in the bolt, so they will be looser than the torque wrench thinks they are). Some folks say to always throw them away. :dunno:

Whether you replace them or not, you should also be aware that U-bolts often loosen after their first few road bumps. So recheck the torque after a few trips around town. You may need to tighten them several times, or you may not need to tighten them at all. But it is worth checking, as the results can be rather gruesome if they do loosen up.


Is the truck going to be riding significantly higher with the new (un-sagged) springs? If so, that would throw off the drag link angle. I'm not sure whether that would be noticeable or significant, but I can't think of any other issues you would run into.
 
Yes I will definitely be getting new hardware ... no keeping old crap for me ...

Good tip on rechecking the torque after a lil bit !

so since the springs are what holds up the truck... only do a side at a time , so the other side holds the truck up as you take the other one off ? I'm thinking I jack stand the frame as well ?
 
I just leave a set of rollers on the axle usually, so I can move it easily.

Martin
 
Next dilemma ...

wanted to buy some Bilstein 5100's shocks , but 4 wheel parts says they only have them for a 4" lift and mines lifted 6" ... they said call bilstein to figure out a cross reference, so I did and Bilstein said, that because of the cantilever mounts , that the shocks won't fit !!! wtf ! so am I slated to replace the rancho 9,000's with the same again ??? mine are shot ... I boing boing boing all over the road , have body lean real bad and it's harrowing at best just going down the freeway ... surely theres a shock better than Rancho's that would work ?
 
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