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86 Coal Burner ...

onedaatmc said:
and I don't mean to be a dick about chevys , it just pisses me off all the crap to fix ... But I do need something more reliable , and have had good luck with yotas in the past ... so why I didn't get one when I got this ... I wanted the large-ness of the suburban to put a bed in the back and the advent of no smog and 21 mpg ... all seemed cool at the time ... then things started breaking and it wasn't cool anymore. Hopefully that makes sense ! So I'll get the glow plugs between the 2nd- 8th of feb, swap out the bad ones, and hopefully it'll pop over !

I do notice when I try to start it , it almost goes, and when I give up after 4 or 5 times , I see all the smoke thats come out of the tail pipe and all the smoke thats still coming out ... so to me that means fuel is getting there , it's just not cranking over ... does that make sense Campfire ?
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If you're cranking and getting smoke out the rear, but still can't get it to run, you should look at your glow plugs. So I guess that's consistent with the other things you've said over the last few weeks.

Did you ever test the plugs to see if they're actually bad? Are you sure it's not the previous owner's sketchy rewiring of the GP controller (adding the switch) that is causing the plugs to not get power? Is your relay getting flaky? :dunno:
 
Some diagnostic skill, and mechanical aptitude go along ways in keeping and old rig going. Add in old, and problably neglected/poorly repaired, and the outcome could be poor. I dont think you would have any more luck with any other brand in similar condition, applying the same repair tactics.

Around here, 3 of those suburbans might add up to 5k, so if somebody will give you 5, thats a no brainer.

And thank you for your service to our country.
 
I can see a big air bubble in the line going to the Injection pump ! (and its $5,000 grand running ... can't get it to run) ... don't know how to bleed that line... , I assume pop off the end next to the IP , then turn the electric fuel pump on till its flowing out , then while flowing jamb it back on the Ip side ?

and if the fuel line needs to be replaced cause of a pin hole , can I use a plastic hose from the tank to the ip ? zip tied off here and there ...but I bet the outlet for the tank is on top of the tank , huh ?
 
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onedaatmc said:
I can see a big air bubble in the line going to the Injection pump ! (and its $5,000 grand running ... can't get it to run) ... don't know how to bleed that line... , I assume pop off the end next to the IP , then turn the electric fuel pump on till its flowing out , then while flowing jamb it back on the Ip side ?

and if the fuel line needs to be replaced cause of a pin hole , can I use a plastic hose from the tank to the ip ? zip tied off here and there ...but I bet the outlet for the tank is on top of the tank , huh ?
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How can you see the air bubble inside the lines? You should be able to fire up the electric pump and the air bubble will work its way through the recirc line. GM's official procedure is to disconnect the wire going to the IP and crank the engine to let the manual pump push the bubble back to the tank, but if you have the electric pump you are better off using that. If the air bubble hasn't gotten into the IP, the truck should fire up like nothing ever happened (I actually do this fairly regularly on one of my rigs due to having such a pinhole that hasn't been replaced yet). But you shouldn't ever have to break that line. Bleeding downstream of the IP is more of a pain, but you still shouldn't hafta crack the injector lines unless you're starting from dry (rebuilt pump or replaced lines).

If you have a pinhole in the line, it can be replaced with a rubber hose. But its lifespan will be short compared to the factory steel line. I'd use rubber only when needed, and keep the lengths as short as reasonably possible. Yes, the outlet is on the top of the tank.
 
It would be better to find the pin hole, cut it right across the hole and use a compression fitting.
 
And to reiterate everything you are describing for your no start condition points directly at a glow plug system problem.
 
well for one , the fuel line by the IP is clear ! can you see the bubble too ?


fuel%20line_zpshchvgg1n.jpg
 
That is the return not the feed. If you think you have an airleak, check the water drain at the filter and the plumbing where the electric pump was spliced in and the line rerouted from going to the manual pump. The other fact is most of the time you look at those lines with it running. With it off there is no pressure and could even be where some of the diesel evaporated inside the line causing bubbles.
 
To be clear you look at that clear return line with it running. Someone added that line, they are normally black rubber.
 
and got the new GP's today in the mail ... but my question on those is ... do I need to unplug them first before unscrewing the nut on the outside of the GP , and then undo the GP ?

Glows_zpswr9xwk4q.jpg
 
Nut? It should just be spade terminals you remove and screw out the glow plug.
 
80' 427 said:
To be clear you look at that clear return line with it running. Someone added that line, they are normally black rubber.
Click to expand...

well thats a problem ... it needs to be running before looking at this line , but it's not running so can;t look at it ... hmmm kinda a dilemma !

Well I don't even know where the electric fuel pump would be to see about a drain, etc. ... huh ?
 
so is the glowplug this thing with the line running to it with the nut ? or its the thing below that , I just saw in the pic ? see I told you I don't kmow squat !

GP_zps7g8biokg.jpg
 
The part below the injector (not with the nut). Pull off the wire, remove, install, tighten, replace wire. Repeat 7 more times.
 
ahh those are the injectors with the nut then ... ok glad I asked ! ...on tightening the glows is it finger tighten or tight with a wrench then 1/4 turn , etc... or just snug ? I don't want to fudge it up ...
 
Snug. The injector has the metal line, right below it is the glow plug. The other sensor I think is the coolant sensor.
 
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