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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN

This is not a dedicated trail rig, but does trailer to the destination usually. I am currently in the planning phase of doing a 52/56" spring swap, and getting back to being more road worthy.
The 1.0 isn't bad at all. That's what Glenn is running. There is an upgrade available to the touchscreen in the first pic you posted. Way better than that handset in the pics he sent you. Allows you to view what the engine is doing real time while driving.
 
The 1.0 isn't bad at all. That's what Glenn is running. There is an upgrade available to the touchscreen in the first pic you posted. Way better than that handset in the pics he sent you. Allows you to view what the engine is doing real time while driving.
Oh that’s cool. Yeah I’ll be doing that upgrade then.
 
It moves! Unplugged the TPS and it started to idle smoother. Then took it on a test run around the yard. I’d say I’m 60% there. Need to track down a few leaks and some wiring issues still, but this truck hasn’t moved on it’s own in a year and a half. I wanted to get it moving with this efi before I switch to the Fast system so I knew if there were any other issues. Man I’m happy right now.

And wow this steering is awesome. 1/4-1/2 turn of the steering wheel and the truck is making a hard turn already. Super powerful system for sure.

The 40’s tuck real nice.

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So I am finally throwing in the towel with this Professional Products system. A buddy of mine just called and offered me his new Fast EZ-EFI system for a price that's about $500-$600 cheaper than new. The system is still in the box, he is just going a different route. More details to come.

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The FAST EZ EFI 1.0 is a good system but it has its quirks and limitations. First thing is no timing control so you need to have a good working and properly set HEI or similar. Next thing is no radical cams, it doesn't handle engines that idle with 10"hg or less.

Also a quirk of all TBI based self learning systems, they tend to like automatic transmissions better as there is less rapid and sudden throttle changes and no sudden loss of load when you press the clutch in while returning to idle. That causes some stumble issues but mostly can be adjusted for.

Additionally, I highly recommend a single plane intake. Or at the very least a large open carb spacer. Conventional hot rodding says single plane intakes are for high rpm only with a penalty of low end torque which is true for carbs but that is not the case with TBI. A large open plenum allows for better low end fuel distribution and actually gets you better low end response. Ironic huh?

That said it's easy to install and easy to setup. It just works, and the more you drive it the better it works. Its light years better than a carb but not quite as refined as factory EFI. I have had my 1.0 system since 2012 and Its only let me down once because of a bad crimp at the battery terminal connection but that's definitely not the fault of the system.

Cost:
Back when the 1.0 first came out it sold for around $2k. Today it goes for about $1k or less due to competition and the 2.0 being more expensive. So if your buddy is selling it for less than $1k, then I don't think you could go wrong.




BTW: the 1.0 system is upgradable. The analog handheld has a new touch screen that it much more user friendly and allows for more fine tuning of settings.
You can also upgrade to a MPEFI set up with the same ECU how ever your harness will need to change.
The ECU is also upgradable to the FAST Dominator Sportsman ECU, plug and play with the ability for laptop tuning and way more parameters.
 
The FAST EZ EFI 1.0 is a good system but it has its quirks and limitations. First thing is no timing control so you need to have a good working and properly set HEI or similar. Next thing is no radical cams, it doesn't handle engines that idle with 10"hg or less.

Also a quirk of all TBI based self learning systems, they tend to like automatic transmissions better as there is less rapid and sudden throttle changes and no sudden loss of load when you press the clutch in while returning to idle. That causes some stumble issues but mostly can be adjusted for.

Additionally, I highly recommend a single plane intake. Or at the very least a large open carb spacer. Conventional hot rodding says single plane intakes are for high rpm only with a penalty of low end torque which is true for carbs but that is not the case with TBI. A large open plenum allows for better low end fuel distribution and actually gets you better low end response. Ironic huh?

That said it's easy to install and easy to setup. It just works, and the more you drive it the better it works. Its light years better than a carb but not quite as refined as factory EFI. I have had my 1.0 system since 2012 and Its only let me down once because of a bad crimp at the battery terminal connection but that's definitely not the fault of the system.

Cost:
Back when the 1.0 first came out it sold for around $2k. Today it goes for about $1k or less due to competition and the 2.0 being more expensive. So if your buddy is selling it for less than $1k, then I don't think you could go wrong.




BTW: the 1.0 system is upgradable. The analog handheld has a new touch screen that it much more user friendly and allows for more fine tuning of settings.
You can also upgrade to a MPEFI set up with the same ECU how ever your harness will need to change.
The ECU is also upgradable to the FAST Dominator Sportsman ECU, plug and play with the ability for laptop tuning and way more parameters.
So it sounds like most of the points you hit on to watch out for, I already have the recommended setup.

Single plan intake with large open TB/carb spacer. Edelbrock performer cam, nothing crazy. Automatic and a new HEI dist.

With getting the truck running last night, I now know that I'm in a good spot to make the swap. Thanks for the input Glenn!!!
 
So I was having an issue with the battery going dead after a day or so, and also had a wire coming from the alternator that was really hot and kind of melting. Went and tested the alternator and it was charging at 15.5 volts. Voltage regulator must have crapped out. Took that as an opportunity to upgrade to a 100amp alternator from a 75amp. Now on to and oil leak.

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So I’m still having a weird wiring issue. The circled wire is power to that small junction. I haven’t changed anything and now it gets so hot that it melts the insulation.

I thought it was the alternator since it was over charging, but it’s still getting hot.

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I believe that is a fusible link. The black plastic should be the connector to the regular wire. So if it is hot, there is something pulling some decent amperage through it. Follow the 2 wires coming out of it to make sure that there isn't one rubbed and touching something.
 
Yeah the red wire on the left stud should be the power feed to that junction block from the starter I think and that is definitely a fusible link that feeds a couple things. And it looks like the alternator also according to Alldata but there diagrams are funky. I can try to find the ones in the Motors manual I have if you need them.
 
You know, I was honestly thinking it may be the starter. I've been having trouble with it sticking lately. I am going to pull the loom apart one night this week and see.
 
Got a red top from the wife for V-day. Whatta gal.

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And I found the source of my issues. Battery was fully charged when I took it off of the charger last night. With the battery completely unhooked, I just checked it and it’s reading 6.9 volts. Made it just a hair over 3 years. No more optimas for this guy.
 
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