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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN

This is not a dedicated trail rig, but does trailer to the destination usually. I am currently in the planning phase of doing a 52/56" spring swap, and getting back to being more road worthy.
Overview Gallery Discussion
campfire said:
Didn't you know? The 700R4 is world rebound for its ability to endure big block torque... :rolleyes:
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I'm not saying nuthin. I know I got lots of static for using a 700 with my 5.3. But I'll say this it put up with my right foot quite well and I never used anything more than the trans cooler in the radiator. Nothing external. 4 years and 20,000+ miles without a hiccup and the fluid was just as red and clean as when I poured it in.

If he wants to run one it's fine by me. It's his truck after all.
 
I ran the 700r4 with my big block for a while. I know I'm not quite as cool as the 8.1L guys, but it's still a good deal of torque. I actually kinda miss it because I got better MPG with the 700r4 than I do now with the 4L80e. @6872xtc ran a 454 with a 700r4 as well.

I probably still have the flex plate if I can figure out which one it is. Can the 8.lL use the same flex plate as the 454?
 
As far as I know, you will need a flexplate with the small pattern, like a TH350 uses. The larger transmissions use a bolt circle that is larger. I was able to get a dual pattern flexplate for my old 454, but I don't know what you can get for an 8.1.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Say what? Never seen that combo before. What's going to happen for the TV cable or is it a manual valve body already?
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This is a manual valve body.
#Burbslut said:
Curious why it doesn't line up. If it must be a Allison specific pattern. My factory 8.1 flexplate bolted up to my th400, but it was for a 4l80e.
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You are on the money here. I didn't think about it, but my flex plate came off of an Allison truck instead of a 4L80E Suburban/Yukon.
 
GWeakland620 said:
As for usage or strength.

This will not be going rock crawling with this setup. This is just to get it mobile for a few months unit my shop is finished. I need the other side of my current garage to work on other vehicles.
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I was wondering if this was a long term deal or not.

I can confirm the 4500 does fall right into the same place as the 700 without any mods. No changes to driveshafts. Keep that in mind when you want to add the man pedal.
 
ZooMad75 said:
I was wondering if this was a long term deal or not.

I can confirm the 4500 does fall right into the same place as the 700 without any mods. No changes to driveshafts. Keep that in mind when you want to add the man pedal.
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I'm not totally against that either. But I do have a good 4L80E already lined up for it. BUT, then again, I do miss my sm465 in the Cheeto truck.
 
GWeakland620 said:
I'm not totally against that either. But I do have a good 4L80E already lined up for it. BUT, then again, I do miss my sm465 in the Cheeto truck.
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How's this for logic. If you stuff a 4L80 in there your truck the driveshafts are going to change. So by going to the 4500 you are saving money. :haha:(Not counting the 4500, clutch stuff and pedals of course):haha:
 
ZooMad75 said:
How's this for logic. If you stuff a 4L80 in there your truck the driveshafts are going to change. So by going to the 4500 you are saving money. :haha:(Not counting the 4500, clutch stuff and pedals of course):haha:
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But I could sell the 4L80 to pay for the cost of the 4500...
 
ZooMad75 said:
I'm not saying nuthin. I know I got lots of static for using a 700 with my 5.3. But I'll say this it put up with my right foot quite well and I never used anything more than the trans cooler in the radiator. Nothing external. 4 years and 20,000+ miles without a hiccup and the fluid was just as red and clean as when I poured it in.

If he wants to run one it's fine by me. It's his truck after all.
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mrk5 said:
I ran the 700r4 with my big block for a while. I know I'm not quite as cool as the 8.1L guys, but it's still a good deal of torque. I actually kinda miss it because I got better MPG with the 700r4 than I do now with the 4L80e. @6872xtc ran a 454 with a 700r4 as well.

I probably still have the flex plate if I can figure out which one it is. Can the 8.lL use the same flex plate as the 454?
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I'm not knocking the 700R4 as much as I'm harassing him for having bought a TH400 and then letting it sit for several years. If I recall, it was bought to replace this 700R4 whenever it failed (which it obviously hasn't done). And then, when he has a perfect opportunity, he grabs the old 700 again. It's not a BAD choice, I'm just disappointed I won't get to see the old TH400 live again. :D :saweet:
 
ZooMad75 said:
I was wondering if this was a long term deal or not.

I can confirm the 4500 does fall right into the same place as the 700 without any mods. No changes to driveshafts. Keep that in mind when you want to add the man pedal.
Click to expand...

I just swapped a nv4500 behind my 8.1. There was a th400 in it. No driveshaft length change. Isn’t the 700 longer?
 
ZooMad75 said:
How's this for logic. If you stuff a 4L80 in there your truck the driveshafts are going to change. So by going to the 4500 you are saving money. :haha:(Not counting the 4500, clutch stuff and pedals of course):haha:
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Is anyone looking for Hydraulic setup for a vacuum brake squarebody? I got a setup for sale.

4E87AFBB-37E1-4FBA-84DF-29C39A5EDDA7.jpeg
 
#Burbslut said:
I just swapped a nv4500 behind my 8.1. There was a th400 in it. No driveshaft length change. Isn’t the 700 longer?
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I don't have a 400 to measure, but the 700 and 4500 were within a 1/4" from the bellhousing flange to the t-case mounting surface. Interesting to know the 400 is similar in length.
 
Wiring harness we thought was complete. Still kept blowing the fuse for the main power to the fuse block for the harness. Finally figured out that 2 of the wires we cut were actually supposed to be the grounds, but were labelled poorly. Going to repin those and run them back in, then get the harness finished back up for install. Maybe by Sunday we can hear some open exhaust noises from the dusty big block.

For anyone following along that does not have a wiring harness yet, just pay the money and get the harness that is already done. Mine was free, but not worth it. :1zhelp::confused::doah:
 
GWeakland620 said:
Wiring harness we thought was complete. Still kept blowing the fuse for the main power to the fuse block for the harness. Finally figured out that 2 of the wires we cut were actually supposed to be the grounds, but were labelled poorly. Going to repin those and run them back in, then get the harness finished back up for install. Maybe by Sunday we can hear some open exhaust noises from the dusty big block.

For anyone following along that does not have a wiring harness yet, just pay the money and get the harness that is already done. Mine was free, but not worth it. :1zhelp::confused::doah:
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I'm all about saving money where you can, but sometimes you get what you pay for, no doubt about that
 
GWeakland620 said:
Wiring harness we thought was complete. Still kept blowing the fuse for the main power to the fuse block for the harness. Finally figured out that 2 of the wires we cut were actually supposed to be the grounds, but were labelled poorly. Going to repin those and run them back in, then get the harness finished back up for install. Maybe by Sunday we can hear some open exhaust noises from the dusty big block.

For anyone following along that does not have a wiring harness yet, just pay the money and get the harness that is already done. Mine was free, but not worth it. :1zhelp::confused::doah:
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Get that stuff hooked up. We want big block noises.

I do have to do a slight rework on my Howell harness. I didn't know they offer a sealed fuse block. It's not on the website, but they can add it if you call them. I had them do a couple custom items that Larry wanted for mine but forgot to specify the sealed fuse panel.

I'm not sending it back when we can redo it here. I ended up getting a Littlefuse sealed power distribution block and will wire it in place of the unsealed unit.
 
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