Had I left the bumper in it's factory location, it'd hide it a bit more. It's tucked in there good enough for my liking.
CK5
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86 K10-Orion
- Thread starter toomany
- Start date
Had I left the bumper in it's factory location, it'd hide it a bit more. It's tucked in there good enough for my liking.
Spooled the cable on with some weight, that's good to go now.
I've put some miles on it in the time I've been working on the body. Been having Bank 1 randomly drop out. It'd run on Bank 2 just fine. Ohm'd out the harness, pulled the loom back and couldn't anything wrong. Killing those cylinders in HpTuners when the problem was happening had no effect. Swapped out the rack of coils and the sub harness on that side and it seems to be cured for now.
Modified the rest of my hub caps and got those on finally too.
I've put some miles on it in the time I've been working on the body. Been having Bank 1 randomly drop out. It'd run on Bank 2 just fine. Ohm'd out the harness, pulled the loom back and couldn't anything wrong. Killing those cylinders in HpTuners when the problem was happening had no effect. Swapped out the rack of coils and the sub harness on that side and it seems to be cured for now.
Modified the rest of my hub caps and got those on finally too.
Finally put the door panels back on. Nothing special, just what was in the truck when I got it. Keeps my switches from bouncing around and the lock rods from rattling.
Girlfriend had a wedding to go to today, so I went out and hit some fire lanes. Did a little over 50 miles. They run in the network of Michigan's ORV trails. Some of the trails are dirt bike only, some are bike/atv, some are mixed use seasonal roads. Depending on the time of year, they can get pretty beat up and muddy. Today they were just sand, real deep in some spots.
Girlfriend had a wedding to go to today, so I went out and hit some fire lanes. Did a little over 50 miles. They run in the network of Michigan's ORV trails. Some of the trails are dirt bike only, some are bike/atv, some are mixed use seasonal roads. Depending on the time of year, they can get pretty beat up and muddy. Today they were just sand, real deep in some spots.
Went out on some trails again last night. Pretty uneventful for the truck. Had to pull out a guy stuck in his diesel Dodge. Had been there a few hours before we happened upon him. Was close to 9pm so I'm thinking he would have been there all night. His girlfriend was not at all thrilled with the situation.
Actually had to use 4 wheel drive to pull him out. Discovered I still have problems with the passenger hub not locking right away. Had this issue before. Took it apart, cleaned and reassembled. Couldn't find anything really wrong with it, just normal wear.
After pulling him out, I realized I didn't have any decent recovery point on the rear of the truck. Eventually, I plan on making a different bumper, but for now this will do. Bonus is I get a better spot to use to move trailers around with (had a 2" ball in the bumper, my stuff all runs 2 5/16"). I don't plan on really towing with this truck, it's easier to maneuver than the CCSB in the yard though.
Not a fan of how it hangs down, but once on the ground you really don't notice it.
Planning a trip in a few weeks that will require a flag on the truck. Whipped up a quick mount.
Also changed a few things in the tune. Raised the full throttle upshift rpm on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Lowered the temp that the fans come on at. I thought that the second fan wasn't coming on, it was, just at a real high temp. Dropped primary to 220*/210* and secondary to 225*/215*. Driving/moving slow down the trail it's fine. It's when you let it sit with no airflow that it starts creeping up higher than I'd like.
Actually had to use 4 wheel drive to pull him out. Discovered I still have problems with the passenger hub not locking right away. Had this issue before. Took it apart, cleaned and reassembled. Couldn't find anything really wrong with it, just normal wear.
After pulling him out, I realized I didn't have any decent recovery point on the rear of the truck. Eventually, I plan on making a different bumper, but for now this will do. Bonus is I get a better spot to use to move trailers around with (had a 2" ball in the bumper, my stuff all runs 2 5/16"). I don't plan on really towing with this truck, it's easier to maneuver than the CCSB in the yard though.
Not a fan of how it hangs down, but once on the ground you really don't notice it.
Planning a trip in a few weeks that will require a flag on the truck. Whipped up a quick mount.
Also changed a few things in the tune. Raised the full throttle upshift rpm on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Lowered the temp that the fans come on at. I thought that the second fan wasn't coming on, it was, just at a real high temp. Dropped primary to 220*/210* and secondary to 225*/215*. Driving/moving slow down the trail it's fine. It's when you let it sit with no airflow that it starts creeping up higher than I'd like.
Went out to Silver Lake sand dunes this past weekend. Spent all day Saturday and most of Sunday there. Believe I saw @Mr.Clean out there with his truck.
Truck did great. Had no problems with it what so ever. Went everywhere I pointed it.
Lake Michigan in the background.
Some thoughts after the trip. Need some kind of traction bar in the rear, was getting some wheel hop. I've wanted to put a converter in this for awhile, that will probably get moved up the list. The D60 is probably overkill for what I'm using the truck for, but being able to do full throttle 4wd doughnuts (or anything in 4wd) and not worrying about the front end is nice.
Truck did great. Had no problems with it what so ever. Went everywhere I pointed it.
Lake Michigan in the background.
Some thoughts after the trip. Need some kind of traction bar in the rear, was getting some wheel hop. I've wanted to put a converter in this for awhile, that will probably get moved up the list. The D60 is probably overkill for what I'm using the truck for, but being able to do full throttle 4wd doughnuts (or anything in 4wd) and not worrying about the front end is nice.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I f'in love this truck.
Nice work.
Nice work.
Thanks!
I'm real happy with how it's turned out. There are a few things I need to work on, but it's close to exactly what I wanted. Being able to get out and use it keeps motivation higher too.
Update time.
Haven't really got much time to work on this the last few weeks. Things are winding down at work and I ready to get back at it.
Few weeks ago the work truck died (6.0 Ford) and I used this to drag it back home a few miles. At one point the strap got a little loose and when the slack came out it jerked the truck pretty good. Results of that were a weak spot in the frame showing itself. I knew this frame was thin in the back, and probably should have done something about it when I had the body off. Behind the front spring hanger in the driver's side ripped apart. Rust took it's toll on that area.
This is after I pulled the braces off.
Can't really see it, but the crack runs up to the top. Ground out the crack, welded it up. Then some 3/8" angle iron and spanned across the bottom. Some 3/8" plate to go up the middle and another piece of angle on the top. Finished up with putting the braces back on.
Looking at the passenger side, found a crack behind the shock mount. This is most likely from stress. Common problem with these trucks.
Same deal, welded up and plated over. Can see where the shock mount ripped out once and a crack had been welded.
I'm going to keep an eye out for a new frame. See them pop up fairly frequently on Facebook.
With that out of the way, was time to start on pulling the transmission. About a month ago I bought a new converter. Stock one drives just fine but I wanted more performance.
Yank SS3600 is what I went with. Should drive almost like stock until I get on it and it flashes higher. Wasn't cheap, but I've found the converter is one place you get what you pay for. It's 100% new, billet internals and front cover.
Once again, not sure how I lived without the hoist before. Still easily one of the best things I've bought.
While the transmission is out, I'm going to re-do the cooler lines and add an external cooler. Wasn't too happy with how they were ran originally and now is the time to deal with it now that I can get at the fittings easier.
Haven't really got much time to work on this the last few weeks. Things are winding down at work and I ready to get back at it.
Few weeks ago the work truck died (6.0 Ford) and I used this to drag it back home a few miles. At one point the strap got a little loose and when the slack came out it jerked the truck pretty good. Results of that were a weak spot in the frame showing itself. I knew this frame was thin in the back, and probably should have done something about it when I had the body off. Behind the front spring hanger in the driver's side ripped apart. Rust took it's toll on that area.
This is after I pulled the braces off.
Can't really see it, but the crack runs up to the top. Ground out the crack, welded it up. Then some 3/8" angle iron and spanned across the bottom. Some 3/8" plate to go up the middle and another piece of angle on the top. Finished up with putting the braces back on.
Looking at the passenger side, found a crack behind the shock mount. This is most likely from stress. Common problem with these trucks.
Same deal, welded up and plated over. Can see where the shock mount ripped out once and a crack had been welded.
I'm going to keep an eye out for a new frame. See them pop up fairly frequently on Facebook.
With that out of the way, was time to start on pulling the transmission. About a month ago I bought a new converter. Stock one drives just fine but I wanted more performance.
Yank SS3600 is what I went with. Should drive almost like stock until I get on it and it flashes higher. Wasn't cheap, but I've found the converter is one place you get what you pay for. It's 100% new, billet internals and front cover.
Once again, not sure how I lived without the hoist before. Still easily one of the best things I've bought.
While the transmission is out, I'm going to re-do the cooler lines and add an external cooler. Wasn't too happy with how they were ran originally and now is the time to deal with it now that I can get at the fittings easier.
Damn midwest rust! I've cut up and thrown away frames that would probably be mint to you guys back that way. Makes me always wish I had the ability to set up a business hauling western low rust stuff back to my buddies place in southern Wisconsin and selling it off to people who need it.
The rest of the frame is mostly rust free. The front halves tend to get coated in oil so they hold up decent. It's the areas that can collect dirt/moisture/salt that rot out. Front of rear springs and shackle hangers are real bad for this. Same with the brackets that are on the gas tank straps. I drove the truck a little bit last winter, don't have any plans to do that this year. It might not get to stay in the barn all winter, but it won't be getting the salt treatment, that's for sure.
So is the permanent correct fix to back half it and just graft on a good rear frame? I see it was already fixed by that shock mount in the past.
Back half and cage it. Tube frame.
Keeping an eye out for a replacement frame. Ideally I'd find a 1ton frame and shorten it to SWB length. I have no problem cutting the back off and welding a better one on. Already did that with the front passenger frame rail/
I've got everything except coils/coilovers for links. Have axle/frame brackets, tube, bungs, rod ends, etc. Not sure I want to go that direction just yet with this truck.
I saw that. Getting it to me would probably make it not worth the cost.
On an unrelated note, I'm in the market for another VSS 241 case if you happen to run across one.
I think the "budget" part of this project is out the window at this point. When I spent $1000 on a converter and $400 worth of parts to put it in.
Russell ProFlex hose and fittings. With the exception of the Earl's fittings for the transmission and radiator.
Comparison between stock and Yank. Stock is a 12", Yank is a 10" and noticeably lighter.
Up in the transmission.
AN adapters for the transmission.
Lines made up to go to external cooler. I bought fittings for, and intended to use the factory radiator cooler as well. But, the way the stock fittings are, they seal the trans cooler to the end tank. Have and o-ring and a flange on them. The aftermarket fittings use a crush washer which doesn't seal all the way and let's antifreeze leak out. Will get some tube nuts and flare the stock lines to adapt to AN.
At this point I forgot to take any more pictures.
External cooler went between AC condenser and radiator. Will need to shorten one of the hoses and make another when I tie back into the radiator.
Initial driving impressions, definitely has more bottom end now. Idling around it is looser, need to give it a hair more throttle to get it to move now. Beyond that, I couldn't keep the tires from breaking free in 1st or 2nd when getting on it to really see how it is. We've been getting a lot of rain/snow mix today and the roads are all slushy. Even in 4wd it'd break tires free in 1st and on the 2nd gear shift.
I can already tell I'll need to raise the Rev limiter and adjust the shift points again. Will get some miles on it and see which way it needs to go. Right now, it hits the Rev limit (5900), shifts to second and hits the limit again right away.
This one hits the tires harder than the stock one. Stock STR (Stall Torque Ratio) is 1.7:1. Ratio on the Yank is 2.5:1.
So far I'm pleased with how it drives. Was pretty much exactly how I expected it to behave.
Russell ProFlex hose and fittings. With the exception of the Earl's fittings for the transmission and radiator.
Comparison between stock and Yank. Stock is a 12", Yank is a 10" and noticeably lighter.
Up in the transmission.
AN adapters for the transmission.
Lines made up to go to external cooler. I bought fittings for, and intended to use the factory radiator cooler as well. But, the way the stock fittings are, they seal the trans cooler to the end tank. Have and o-ring and a flange on them. The aftermarket fittings use a crush washer which doesn't seal all the way and let's antifreeze leak out. Will get some tube nuts and flare the stock lines to adapt to AN.
At this point I forgot to take any more pictures.
External cooler went between AC condenser and radiator. Will need to shorten one of the hoses and make another when I tie back into the radiator.
Initial driving impressions, definitely has more bottom end now. Idling around it is looser, need to give it a hair more throttle to get it to move now. Beyond that, I couldn't keep the tires from breaking free in 1st or 2nd when getting on it to really see how it is. We've been getting a lot of rain/snow mix today and the roads are all slushy. Even in 4wd it'd break tires free in 1st and on the 2nd gear shift.
I can already tell I'll need to raise the Rev limiter and adjust the shift points again. Will get some miles on it and see which way it needs to go. Right now, it hits the Rev limit (5900), shifts to second and hits the limit again right away.
This one hits the tires harder than the stock one. Stock STR (Stall Torque Ratio) is 1.7:1. Ratio on the Yank is 2.5:1.
So far I'm pleased with how it drives. Was pretty much exactly how I expected it to behave.
Would you happen to have the part #s for the Earls adapters?
These are the correct NPS thread for the transmission case. Some people have gotten away with NPT threaded in there, but I didn't want to take a chance and crack the case trying to get it to seal. I believe there is also a -8 version too.
I have seen it happen, thanks for the info.
