CK5
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'86 K30 Crew Cab Build

That's what i hope for. keeping my eyes open for a local nv4500, the older 93-95 variant.
 
That's what i hope for. keeping my eyes open for a local nv4500, the older 93-95 variant.

That’s exactly what I used. Just an FYI if you have a long input round pattern 205 like I did. Getting the advance adapters 1.625” spacer is needed for it to be the same length as a 465/round pattern 205. I swapped a short input into the 205 and didn’t use the spacer only to have both driveshafts not work. With the spacer theyre perfect just like before
 
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That’s exactly what I used. Just an FYI if you have a long input round pattern 205 like I did. Getting the advance adapters 1.625” spacer is needed for it to be the same length as a 465/round pattern 205. I swapped a short input into the 205 and didn’t use the spacer only to have both driveshafts not work. With the spacer there perfect just like before

That is a pretty awesome detail right there especially since I had brand new front and rear driveshafts built last year.
 
@78K30 is your NP205 t-case twin sticked?

No actually embarrassingly enough it’s no-sticked right now and still in 2wd. I went ahead and ordered the advance adapters NV4500/205 shifter bracket and it’ll be in tomorrow. I was going to engineer my own but for $50 I’ll give theirs a shot. It’s a muddy harvest so I need to get 4x4 functional again

That is a pretty awesome detail right there especially since I had brand new front and rear driveshafts built last year.

I’ve got $350 in my rear driveline so I was in a similar situation. I didn’t want to have to lengthen a shaft I just had shortened so I ordered the spacer to make the lengths the same. I know my thread isn’t the most detailed but I hope it sheds enough light to do you some good. I’ve been driving mine for two months with no issues to report.
 
I’ve got $350 in my rear driveline so I was in a similar situation. I didn’t want to have to lengthen a shaft I just had shortened so I ordered the spacer to make the lengths the same. I know my thread isn’t the most detailed but I hope it sheds enough light to do you some good. I’ve been driving mine for two months with no issues to report.

Right on man, That's what I hope to accomplish by posting up about my heap too. That and to keep me motivated and making progress.

I haven't made it through to your trans swap yet, maybe tonight, so much to digest on this board.
 
Got the front axle out from under my truck and mostly tore down.

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King pins and lower bearings still need to come out. Looks like my wheel bearings and spindle bearings are still in good shape. Both my inner axle seal surfaces are pitted and grooved, I'm going to try those 2 piece F@rd seals there.

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My next step is to get it all cleaned up and painted. Then I'll start putting the pieces back together.

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The drivers side brake pad is held on by a single remaining rivet :eek: It wasn't making noise or anything?
 
About the gears, The axle had what I thought was a bad pinion bearing, and the races are pitted and worn, but everything was intact. There was 1/16" or so slip in the pinion when I pulled it apart. The rear bearing fell out in my hand, the pinion bearing surface had been turned down to eliminate the press on that bearing and it had a .085 shim stack in it? The carrier dropped out with zero prying too.
 
Previous owners, you’ve just gotta love em :angry1:

That can be the gift that keeps giving for sure. I've owned this truck so long it's hard to get too upset with the P.O. on this one. I should have fixed this loooong ago. I didn't realize how bad it was til I built the new drivelines last year. I never have installed my over a year old brand spanking new front shaft.

Most of the truck was completely unmolested when I got it. Besides this, probably the worst thing I discovered was butchered wiring in the ignition switch harness. Someone cut some wires and cobbled in a push button with some electrical tape as a bypass rather than just replacing the faulty ignition switch.
 
I was tickled to death that when I picked up the 79 C30 a couple weeks ago that it has minimal wiring cobble jobs. I have yet to own a squarebody with decent wiring
 
I was tickled to death that when I picked up the 79 C30 a couple weeks ago that it has minimal wiring cobble jobs. I have yet to own a squarebody with decent wiring

I'm pretty sure it is laziness, possibly ignorance, that leads to complete shit wiring work. Doing it right and routing things nice takes time.

I suck at cleaning and painting things. I'm going to make an attempt to take that up a notch and clean/paint the areas of my truck that I tear into. I think Ill reprint the whole truck next year. I painted my tailgate and rear cab orange just to see what it would look like, Too bright. I'm going to go factory color (Nevada Gold) maybe with a black stripe next year. Yes I will paint right over the dents and creased panels with zero hesitation.
 
Got the housing all cleaned out, my 8yr old wingman had fun pressure washing for a minute.
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Wire wheeled, primed, and painted.
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The axle tubes were lined with 1/2" thick mud nastiness that was a bitch to clean out.

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It's going to look funny under my truck being all shiny and clean.

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Look at that pic of my stub end splines please. This is the drivers side, definitely twisted/deformed. I'm guessing the consensus is going to be replace that part. I should upgrade to 35 splines right now, but my wallet already hurts...
 
Put it on the other side
:haha:



I think if you’re not going rock humping you’ll be fine for awhile.
Perusing the classifieds might help, in winter lots of guys upgrade, so these could become available
 
Put it on the other side

Is this a thing? The short side shafts will always be stiffer, but I'm scratching my head as to why that would change anything to do with the load capacity of the stub shaft splines?

If this is a just a funny, you got me good.
 
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