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'86 K30 Crew Cab Build

Overview Gallery Discussion
I should post more i guess, struggling to get this post to go up here. Fixed the broken pics in the first thread.

So i bought a basket case '74 K5 that I'm just going to take the parts I want off of and decided to keep this K30. I have a ton of extra parts that came with the '74, two front radiator supports, several sets of doors, 2 tailgates, 3 fenders, 2 sets of good condition factory headlight bezels to fit the '74. If someone in the SE ID area can use them i'll make them a sweetheart deal on it.
 
Going to address the lack of park brake next, should I go driveline brake or line lock? What has been best for others?
 
My truck had a DIY4X disc conversion on it when i got it. The proportioning valve was never changed to the disc/disc version and my rear brakes have always come on a little too strong. I bought a replacement disc/disc valve years ago and never installed it. Today was the day.

Note to self, and anyone else that hasn't tried it, don't bleed hydroboost brakes with the truck not running, it pushes all the power steering fluid back to the reservoir and makes a big mess.

I installed this valve: Right Stuff Detailing PV72, it fit perfectly. The PN PVK72 just means it came as a kit with a bracket, bolts, and a new electrical connector.
IMG_5022.JPG IMG_5020.JPG
A test drive showed that the rear brakes are still coming on too strong, they lock up just before the fronts do on a gravel road. I can easily lock up all 4 37's on any surface, but i am going to have to add an adjustable proportioning valve for the rears.

My brake warning light is always on now, no idea why? I'm going to put one of those GMSports tachometers/fuel gauges in my cluster and eliminate that light anyways so it is no big deal, but I'd like to know why all the same. Any ideas?
 
Oh and my truck is set up with 3/4 ton calipers and rotors in the rear, it has the stock 1 ton D60 calipers on it, I'm also running a rebuilt factory master cylinder.
 
Did you accidentally shift the valve in the prop valve to cause the light to come on while you were bleeding it.
 
I've got 3/4 ton up front and half ton out back and a p30 disc/disc master with hydroboost and the same prop valve and I also has to add a manually adjustable prop valve to turn down the rear brakes.
 
82355 said:
Try a half ton caliper on the rear.

Martin
Click to expand...
Thanks, That's a good idea. I think i will try that. I'd like to avoid having any extra adjustable things in my brake system if possible.

I also has to add a manually adjustable prop valve to turn down the rear brakes.[/QUOTE said:
Any idea how much turn down you had to add to your rears? Do you have to fiddle with it to keep it happy? Does the factory P30 combo valve have that little plunger on it like the stock disc/drum one does? The one i'm using doesn't have one at all. If my master cylinder goes out again I'll probably put one of those P30 ones in.

I also figured out the warning light, my daughter helped me bleed the brakes and she fiddled with my e-brake pedal, which has no cable hooked to it, but it apparently still has the switch hooked up to it..
Click to expand...
 
I put mine on and played with it in the winter and ended up 8 turns out to get it pretty close to not locking the rears. 10 turns is all the way out. Still gotta watch out on ice and panic stops in the rain but ok. I turned it back to 6 turns out in the summer. I'm running a p30 mc off an 83 with 6.2 diesel and hydroboost to match the s pecs on my k5. Bolted right in. It does give a good stuff pedal which is what I like and I have braided stainless lines that add to that. The piston size on the mc might be a tad large if you don't like your brakes to come on without much pedal travel. I like mine how it is. The prop valve I have is an aftermarket disc/disc exactly like factory one.
 
I'm running C30 hydroboost/master cylinder on my K20 with 3/4 disk brakes at both ends and mine stops perfectly even even on ice in the winter, odd people have issues with rear disk conversions
 
Mine worked the way it was before i removed that lever actuated load dependent proportioning valve located on the rear axle. I ditched that hardware when I lifted the truck and had to add a longer brake line to the rear axle.
 
I posted this in the garage section but thought I'd throw it up here too, looking for some guidance.

My Dana 60 front axle has bad pinion bearings. You can move the pinion in/out 1/8"+ my truck has been a 2 wheel drive for too long.

There are no broken teeth or obvious signs of damage to the ring/pinion teeth. I'm concerned there still might be weird wear going on. I don't really want to use my brand new bearings just to set it up and see how jacked the contact pattern/wear marks look.

How can or should I verify that my gears are OK before just rebuilding it and hoping for the best?

If I need to replace the gears I'll probably go to a 4.56 or 4.88 (currently 4.10's) but if I don't need to change them, I'll spend the $ for another upgrade.
 
Just takes an experienced eye to spot the wear. Being a front axle and assumingly unloaded most of its life it's probably ok.

Got a picture?
 
obijuank5 said:
Just takes an experienced eye to spot the wear. Being a front axle and assumingly unloaded most of its life it's probably ok.

Got a picture?
Click to expand...
I'm kicking myself for not taking a few when i had the cover off, but I didn't.

I thought about trying to put some marking compound on it and spin it around with the yoke to try to see, but there is guaranteed too much play in the pinion?
 
obijuank5 said:
Just takes an experienced eye to spot the wear. Being a front axle and assumingly unloaded most of its life it's probably ok.

Got a picture?
Click to expand...
IMG_5024.JPG IMG_5025.JPG

I'm not a gear pattern expert, but there are some concerning areas to my untrained eye?
 
OK, in the interest of trying to make progress every week. I welded a 5/16" hole shut that a previous owner had drilled through the back wall of the cab right in the lower drivers side corner of the rear window. Probably a CB antenna or something, I cant imagine what else it would have been for. It would leak water if the rain was heavy enough. I put a piece of 5/16" round bar in it and welded it up, then ground it smooth.
 
Lane I need to stop by soon. I need the wiper mechanism from the blazer! And some of the front end bits
 
blazinzuk said:
Lane I need to stop by soon. I need the wiper mechanism from the blazer! And some of the front end bits
Click to expand...

Eric,
You can take whatever you need off of it. Not sure what of the wiper assembly is intact let me know what you need and I'll see if it is there.
 
I'll call ya this week sometime. Might could drop by Thursday evening. I'm headed to Salt Lake
 
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