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'86 K30 Crew Cab Build

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If you are gonna use it then stick to the long bed. I am always out of bed space when camping and hunting. I always have a good size tool box too though. If its a wheelbase thing then maybe do it or just bob the back off. I need to find a good deal on some of those Goodyears. I snagged sone really nice 16.5x9.75 chrome wagon wheels recently.
 
Truckman4life said:
If you are gonna use it then stick to the long bed. I am always out of bed space when camping and hunting. I always have a good size tool box too though. If its a wheelbase thing then maybe do it or just bob the back off. I need to find a good deal on some of those Goodyears. I snagged sone really nice 16.5x9.75 chrome wagon wheels recently.
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Boyce equipment in Ogden has a bunch right now, that’s where these came from. The new take offs like I bought are $400 per, the older ones are cheaper like $200 per.

when the military surplus dries up completely it will be cheaper to buy a new set of wheels and tires in a 17” rim and forget about the 16.5’s.
 
That’s how new these take off tires are. Perfect condition, except for all the crap they smear inside for the runflats. Used up a couple cans of brake clean getting that stuff out of there, after the pressure washer even.

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Nice! They're only a few hours from me. I was thinking I would have to get some swampers, which would be cool, but also expensive for a truck I dont drive much. I
 
Truckman4life said:
Nice! They're only a few hours from me. I was thinking I would have to get some swampers, which would be cool, but also expensive for a truck I dont drive much. I
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it’s with the drive just to look at their yard. The pile of GM Dana 60’s they have will blow your mind. They also have 5-6 Kaiser’s and 3-4 dozen 2-1/2 ton trucks there plus 2-3 CUCV 1ton trucks which have all oddly had their axles removed and they are just sitting in the dirt. I didn’t ask but I’m sure they want a fortune for the surplus vehicles.
 
Been busy over the holiday, steering and brakes just about done

Rebuilt my gear box, drilled and tapped for future hydro assist, installed a rebuilt hydro booster, ORD spec PSC pump and reservoir, new lines everywhere, new disc/disc master cylinder from a P30 van that I’ve had on the shelf for a long time, pressure reducing valve for rear brakes, and the thing I’m most excited about the ORD park brake manual valve.

I either lost a fitting or didn’t do something the way I was supposed to but I am one 8an adapter away from being able to put fluid in this thing. So no testing yet.

I’ll put some picture up.
 
Steering gear rebuilt and drilled for future hydro assist, I had this box and the one off my truck, I pulled them both apart and used the one in the best shape. I put some #6 JIC fittings in and capped them off for now.

It took me like 10 tries to figure out how to get those dang ball bearings in there, but once you catch the vision of how to do it, is actually pretty easy.

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ORD park brake kit, I stole this idea from YouTube (I think this gent is a member on here but I don’t know him) Pulled my long disabled park brake pedal that had no cable on it, drilled out the holes pit grommets in and mounted my valve under the dash where a previous owner had drilled a hole for a starter switch. It worked great, 3’ long hoses would have been better where mine ended up instead of the 4’ ones supplied by ORD. I had to round up a few fittings to adapt the pressure reducing valve into my rear brakes circuit. The manual valve is down stream of the reducing valve.

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The hydroboost was not fun to pull, it had been leaking for a while and was a big mess, had to drop the steering column to get to some of the fasteners, mine had 4 studs coming from in the cab to the engine bay and 2 going the other way from engine bay to cab.

I fought that stupid 4 sided nut for a long time and ended up building a socket out of a scrap of 1.5” pipe and some 1/8” flat bar, a pipe wrench on the 1.5” pipe took it right off.

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PSC pump and reservoir, pump went right in no problem other than it had spots for 4 bolts to attach to the bracket my stock pump only had 2. I have a bucket of hoarded bolts that I’ve pulled from squares that I scrapped once upon a time, that hardware is so handy.

I welded a small angle iron bracket to the radiator support to mount the reservoir, it looks like it is going to work great.

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I run that same master cylinder(P30 diesel van 4 wheel disc hydroboost) with my 6.2L and hydroboost. I have an 8 lug 10 bolt up front and a disc converted 14 bolt out back. I have 3/4 ton calipers up front and 1/2 ton calipers out back. I did a disc/disc combination valve in the factory location but ended up adding a manual valve also. I have to turn it almost all the way off to get the rear to not pass the front end on anything wet or icy. I love it otherwise. Nice firm pedal and stops no matter what.

I need to do that manual park brake valve on my 4 spd C30. It has no park brake.
 
I had no problems with my rears until I removed that load sensing valve at the rear axle. This is going to be a welcome upgrade. I think my D60 fronts might be a little more stopping power than yours, so maybe I won’t need to turn it down so much? In any case I will be able to turn this down as much as I need to with this new valve to balance it out.

The no park brake with the manual trans is a crappy situation. I think this ORD manual valve is going to be a good solution to that problem. It has more utility than just a park brake too. I think I will like it.

I saw the other day that Hillbillywizard sells a rear disc kit using 2009 2500HD parts, with the integrated park brake drum, if I did that I’d have to change the fronts over too because the rears already stop too good. He sells the kit for the front D60 same 2009 donor parts. Slip on rotors front and rear that way too. It would be worth the extra cost over the old school squarebody stuff if mine wasn’t already converted.
 
There was another company that used to do a rear disc kit like that but they went out of business. The newer big dual piston fronts would be nice.
 
I can confirm that the manual valve park brake I got from ORD is awesome. An added plus that I did not expect, my park brake warning light indicator comes on when I trap pressure in the rear circuit and release the pedal. The light goes right back off as soon as you release the valve and push the brake pedal again. That P30 disc/disc master cylinder gives a nice firm pedal and has no problem locking up all 4 tires on dry pavement.

It works so well I think you'd immediately know something was wrong if you tried to drive with it on. It holds way harder than any emergency brake I've ever used. I tried isolating the rear circuit and just stopping with the fronts, the pedal feels weird when you do that, but it also works. This is a great addition to a disc/disc setup. I don't have to safety inspect in my state (Idaho) so that is a non issue for me.
 
You are not wrong, that master cylinder is excellent. I now just need to mess with the rear proportioning valve on a slick surface if we ever get some snow up here this winter.
 
LNielson said:
You are not wrong, that master cylinder is excellent. I now just need to mess with the rear proportioning valve on a slick surface if we ever get some snow up here this winter.
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That's what happened to me. I had mine set up when I lived in Moab then I moved to Idaho and wrecked my super duty and had to drive my blazer in the winter. Stupid shitty plowing job they did up there and I tried to slow down for my driveway and spun around in a circle right into the ditch. Added the adjustable prop valve to the rear circuit and I have it turned out like 6 turns out of a total of 8 to get it to not spin in circles on wet or icy roads. I can turn it up a little in summer weather.
 
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