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He was on here for a long time. And yes I lurk the internet lol
He was on here for a long time. And yes I lurk the internet lol
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87 Dodge Raider - Beadlocks & Grabbers
- Thread starter truck-oholic
- Start date
Stomis
Professional Amateur
So are you doing a TBI 350 also or holding out for an LS?
Looks like a lot of good parts!
LS. Keeping axles, tires, wheels, brake parts, shocks, np241. Selling everything else. Still not sure if I am going NV4500 or SM465, depends on what I have room for. Also thinking I want to do a NWF Eco Box in front of a stock np241 if I have room for it. Would put me at greater than 200:1 reduction in 1st gear double low and that just sounds cool as hell
If things play out right I may have a BIG surprise for the fullsize crowd with the body and frame.
Did some holiday shopping for the SAS since WFO and Ruffstuff were both running 20% off sales. Decided I am going to sell the complete ORD steering system on the donor 60 and go in a slightly different direction.
Got these in a 3/4" bore. I will run the tie rod on the bottom side and the drag link on the top so the passenger side arm will have the tie rod and drag link sharing a 3/4" bolt. What makes this really cool is that no matter what you are not going to have problems with contact between the two since they are not on the same plane but you still get the tie rod up high and protected. Not sure if this is possible just yet but I may also swap these side to side and run them backwards with the pitman arm turned 180 degrees from standard orientation to push the front axle forward ~12" and run reverse high steer like on my K5. This should work since the drag link would be pushing/pulling on the backside of the knuckle but the pitman arm is reversed by running it on the front side of the box. I would also have to reverse the hydro lines from standard tap orientation.
Hydro assist ram mount. Considered getting a standard DIY4X tower but this one was cheaper and will work no matter how I set the ram up (front or reverse tie rod)
Ruffstuff Specialties 7/8" heim steering kit
Also picked up a 1410 tom wood's superflex joint from WFO for the t-case side of the front HAD driveshaft for the K5
Got these in a 3/4" bore. I will run the tie rod on the bottom side and the drag link on the top so the passenger side arm will have the tie rod and drag link sharing a 3/4" bolt. What makes this really cool is that no matter what you are not going to have problems with contact between the two since they are not on the same plane but you still get the tie rod up high and protected. Not sure if this is possible just yet but I may also swap these side to side and run them backwards with the pitman arm turned 180 degrees from standard orientation to push the front axle forward ~12" and run reverse high steer like on my K5. This should work since the drag link would be pushing/pulling on the backside of the knuckle but the pitman arm is reversed by running it on the front side of the box. I would also have to reverse the hydro lines from standard tap orientation.
Hydro assist ram mount. Considered getting a standard DIY4X tower but this one was cheaper and will work no matter how I set the ram up (front or reverse tie rod)
Ruffstuff Specialties 7/8" heim steering kit
Also picked up a 1410 tom wood's superflex joint from WFO for the t-case side of the front HAD driveshaft for the K5
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Stomis
Professional Amateur
Ditch the panhard.
Yeah, that is getting sold off. I don't plan on going leaf sprung on either axle under the Raider. Definitely going double triangulated 4 link rear and not quite sure on the front, maybe 3 link, double triangulated 4 link, or parallel 4 link. If the front doesn't get double triangulated 4 link then I would be doing a new welded panhard anyway. Ruffstuff sells complete 3 & 4 link kits with tube for about $850 per kit normal price. When I am ready to purchase I will wait to catch them on one of their holiday sales and get them 20-25% off so ~$700 a kit. Whether I go coils, coilovers, or air struts/shocks is also yet to be determined. Lots of time before I am ready to do all that. Still have to gut the existing drivetrain and get the new drivetrain in before suspension work can begin.
Picked up the trans & transfer from the Fastenal store today. I am currently into this combo for $700 AFTER having it shipped from New Mexico. I will be selling the driver drop 241 since I now am committed to passenger drop front. I have two passenger drop 241s now and one of those may be getting tore down for Eco Box parts. I was happy to discover that the NV4500 is the same length as a 32 spline SM465 (~27") so that makes it a no brainer to go with the NV4500.
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Stomis
Professional Amateur
Ah I didnt realize you were going links. You'll need a panhard bar up front to push the suspension in the same geometry as the draglink. I would do a proper 3 link or even radius arms.
Yeah, after doing a little more research just now I am leaning towards 3 link up front with panhard. Evidently double triangulated 4 link on a steering axle does not work as well as the 3 link with panhard. This will be my first foray into linked suspension but i am trying not to become intimidated. Reason for going links is I want to push the axles out as far as I can to the front and rear. Just not possible to the degree I want with leaf springs.
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Why not just run the Suburban?
Martin
Martin
LIVEAnimals
1/2 ton status
Couple reasons.
1) Can't afford to keep it. Parting it out will pretty much pay for the purchase of the Burb and result in me getting all the stuff I want off of it for free. The Raider frame and body will be paid for by parting out the rest of the stock drivetrain on it. I gave $1,200 for the Raider and have made $700 back just from selling wheels/tires and original bumpers so I need to try and get $500 for the trans/transfer & axles. Think I can pull that off pretty easy. As is, the Raider isn't worth much if I wanted to sell it and keep the Burb which I don't anyway.
2) It's got body damage on the driver's side, is fairly rough on the inside besides the seats and dash, & leaks water into the cab thanks to the roof rack install
3) I like unique vehicles and the Raider is just that
4) I and someone I know have bigger better plans for the Burb's body and frame
Sweett i like where this is going!
Been reading up on link design and this stuff is cool. Lot to consider but I think I am going to nerd out on this build. Right now the plan is double triangulated 4 link rear and 3 link w/ panhard front using Jeep coil springs all the way around. Looks like I am a long way out from being able to crunch all the numbers though. Have to get old drivetrain out and new drivetrain in before I can see what my space constraints are and start taking measurements.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Yeah why not keep the truck thats 4 times bigger lol.
I believe I have a buyer lined up for the Suburban body and frame and best part is they are going to strip everything down for me so I have to do zero work to part everything out. Waiting to hear back about it still.
Stomis
Professional Amateur
Thats good. I was being sarcastic lol. Ive always liked the raiders. My VP in middle school had one and we thought it was just the coolest thing.
I thought you might be going for sarcastic but I still thought it was pertinent info
