Lathe restoration looks AESOME!! SUCKS big time about the loss of all the tools. That Sandy was a raging c**t. Glad to hear you're getting a good itch to get back at it considering what you had to deal with. Props to you brother 
CK5
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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...
- Thread starter ryoken
- Start date
ok...so...you don't sound like I imagined....I was expecting Capt. Quint...or maybe Rick Flair...
actually it sounds weird, not like me.. maybe cuz I was talking 6"s away from the camera... oh, that chuck, is like $148 now... 
oh, that chuck, is like $148 now... 
Pretty soon you won't know how you ever lived without it. I can tell you right now that if something changed and I wasn't a machinist I'd have to buy a small lathe/mill to have at the house.
Don't be intimidated by threading, the good thing is you can start slow, literally!
Once you have the correct gear-set on to obtain the threads per inch you want the spindle speed obviously doesn't matter since it's all proportional. So in the beginning you can cut REALLY, REALLY slow. Cut quality might suffer but it'll work just fine and all of the motions will be slow enough to let you think.
X2!
thanks...
next on the lathe, I'll start getting the saddle, etc together and running... need some tailstock parts too... parts get pricey in a hurry.. but for $50, I figure it was a good enough deal to warrant some schtuff..
ok... hood shaped
and a fair coat of cabbed vinyl ester....
time to go dust out Ryoken's Lab™
.
next on the lathe, I'll start getting the saddle, etc together and running... need some tailstock parts too... parts get pricey in a hurry.. but for $50, I figure it was a good enough deal to warrant some schtuff..
ok... hood shaped
and a fair coat of cabbed vinyl ester....
time to go dust out Ryoken's Lab™
.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I like the video! the sound reminds me of high school machine shop where i first learned to run a mill and lathe!
Reminds me of shop class / FFA...(Future Farmers of America). My instructor was an ex Navy and was a farmer...stout little man who whipped my @$$ in class with a piece of 2x4...
Those were the days
somebody throw rocks at my head, I'm about to order the remaining parts I need to do the vac operated flapper...
the side of the brain that says I should while I'm here fabbing is screaming on my ear drum..... it'll cost me about $200 to 250, and obviously some time...
but FUN time!
the side of the brain that says I should while I'm here fabbing is screaming on my ear drum..... it'll cost me about $200 to 250, and obviously some time...
but FUN time!
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Hmmmm. I I feel like it'd get annoying watching it go up and down every time you get on/off throttle... It is pretty cool though
magik235
Still Alive
Great videos. The lathe project is really progressing.
that's why you run an electric solenoid on the other side, so you can flip a switch and lock it out so it stays closed if you desire... it's a combo of factory parts and a custom install of them..
actually I may hold off... i might be able to keep the mod to repainting the inside black and custom bracketry.. that's $250 I could use for other stuff...
actually I may hold off... i might be able to keep the mod to repainting the inside black and custom bracketry.. that's $250 I could use for other stuff...
Ahh, I was thinking you meant it was purely vac powered. If you could run a switch that'd be cool. Could you then switch it to open when you want? ( I would imagine so)
I'm constempating taking out the narrow center raised section and having it flat across the top of the cowl? thoughts?
1, I think it will look better... and 2, it would make putting the flapper in MUCH more feasable, now or then.....
1, I think it will look better... and 2, it would make putting the flapper in MUCH more feasable, now or then.....
that's a bit more involved, but doable. different switch/wiring and solenoid.....
I'd say if your gonna do the flapper, do it. If not, I like the raised part.
Or maybe just take it out up to where the flap would go
Or maybe just take it out up to where the flap would go
I could live with it, or not... you could probably pull out 4" or so at the top to have flat for the door.. obviously that's a bit more structural and obviously a full repaint... now if you pull the whole peak out down to the front that brings in other factors too, structurally..
My first thought is only remove the raised line IF you put the flapper in....
My second thought is that is would look too "boxy" without the center line unless you did something unique in addition to the flapper....
