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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

mofugly13 said:
By the way, that box is friggin awesome! Will the solenoid go inside?

Hey Matt, thanks... :bow:

yeah, the slave solenoid is mounted in there... all the relays for the h-lights, fans, volt gauges, etc go in there too...

Eventually an ACR, like yours sitting on my coffeetable will be going in there... :doah: :wink1:

haha, you don't know how tempting it is to rip it out of the package and put it in!!! :haha: I'll mail that tomorrow... :D
 
mounted in the truck....


boxin.JPG
 
:bow: :bow: :bow: LOOKS AWESOME!! I think the Lexan will be the perfect finishing touch. You don't want to cover up that wiring it's perdy. :D
 
mini_mull said:
:bow: :bow: :bow: LOOKS AWESOME!! I think the Lexan will be the perfect finishing touch. You don't want to cover up that wiring it's perdy. :D

Thanks Kristi :D

Yeah, kinda had to just throw it together and get it back up and running... As I finalize the relays, breakers, etc in the box I'll really take the time to route everything super neat and all....

Actually since installing it, I'm up in the air on the lexan... Tho it would be a cool novelty, and somewhat helpful in a diagnosis situation, I'm actually thinking a semi black top would look very cool in it's own right..

The secret black box thing... Plus it would make that corners look "flow" a little better... I'll more than likely just cut/fit both up, and over time figure out which I like better...

This will be how the quick access works for the cover...

The fender-side of the cover will have a length-wise spacer, then a wider one under it, so it slides under the lip... Like a channel... I want it to be easily removable, not hinged....So I can just yank it off...

Then to latch it down on the battery switch-side, I'm gonna run 2 of these in the corners.... Just push em down and they click/latch in, and 1/4 turn and they spring open...






MP-02-103-552.mdt.jpg


I've used em at work, they're slick.. Done projects with em on lexan, not on the composite, but they would work just as well.

I had considered other stuff, standard Duzs race car type stuff, but dig the look and no tool aspect of the pictured ones....


Or I could always go the mirror of it, satin cup and black handle... :thinking::haha:



MP-02-103-525.mdt.jpg
 
ryoken said:
Thanks Kristi :D

Yeah, kinda had to just throw it together and get it back up and running... As I finalize the relays, breakers, etc in the box I'll really take the time to route everything super neat and all....

Actually since installing it, I'm up in the air on the lexan... Tho it would be a cool novelty, and somewhat helpful in a diagnosis situation, I'm actually thinking a semi black top would look very cool in it's own right..

The secret black box thing... Plus it would make that corners look "flow" a little better... I'll more than likely just cut/fit both up, and over time figure out which I like better...

This will be how the quick access works for the cover...

The fender-side of the cover will have a length-wise spacer, then a wider one under it, so it slides under the lip... Like a channel... I want it to be easily removable, not hinged....So I can just yank it off...

Then to latch it down on the battery switch-side, I'm gonna run 2 of these in the corners.... Just push em down and they click/latch in, and 1/4 turn and they spring open...






MP-02-103-552.mdt.jpg


I've used em at work, they're slick.. Done projects with em on lexan, not on the composite, but they would work just as well.

I had considered other stuff, standard Duzs race car type stuff, but dig the look and no tool aspect of the pictured ones....


Or I could always go the mirror of it, satin cup and black handle... :thinking::haha:



MP-02-103-525.mdt.jpg

link to those??
 
I say go with the clear or a smoked lexan. Partially for the cool factor, but also to be able to glance in & determine if you have any leaks. Form follows function for me, but if you can harmonize the two.... :saweet: :woot: :pimp: :waytogo:

Totally dig the latches!! Super:pimp1: !!

Later,
Buddy
 
BUDDY said:
I say go with the clear or a smoked lexan. Partially for the cool factor, but also to be able to glance in & determine if you have any leaks.

Hmmm, I would be giving up the glance factor... :( Maybe a light smoke, so when you look in the box, you have no problem seeing, but from afar, it would give more of that solid black feel.... :thinking:

We have soooo much lexan at work it's not funny... I'll have to rummage around and pick out a hunk for $5... :D

I wont be waterproof, waterproof for awhile... Maybe 98%... The big battery cables seal without any help, but there are 2 of those bulkhead fittings that have smaller wire bundles coming thru...

I have some trick sheathing in store for everything outside the box that ties it into the bulkhead fittings.. But that'll be awhile till I finalize the harnesses...

So, in other words, submerged, yeah it'll probably get some water, for now... :wink1: Not that I plan on that happening!

haha, hey, where could I get some of those electronics moisture sucking packets? :eek1: :haha:

:haha: huh, huh, I said "trick sheathing" :o :crazy: :p:
 
IMO smoked lexan would be the perfect compromise. I agree the black lid would be most asethetically pleasing, but seeing is believing. BTW, those panel latches are trick, and I also like the flush M1 compression latches on their website. I'm getting some great sources out of your threads, thanks.
 
ryoken said:
I wont be waterproof, waterproof for awhile... Maybe 98%... The big battery cables seal without any help, but there are 2 of those bulkhead fittings that have smaller wire bundles coming thru...

:haha: huh, huh, I said "trick sheathing" :o :crazy: :p:

You got the "hook-up", use some elbow conduit for you're smaller bundles or even more tricker, one or more of these. I'm sure they aren't cheap, but they are HOT!! :bow:

BTW, you're a dirty, dirty guy. :wink1: "Trick sheathing", what does that mean?!? Sheesh!

Later,
Buddy
 
:D well thought out, clean clean aand sexy :)

im using the same cable grommets for my buggy, i got them from a circle track suppler.
 
supersize75k5 said:
:D well thought out, clean clean aand sexy :)

im using the same cable grommets for my buggy, i got them from a circle track suppler.

Thanks man.... :waytogo: I know your an "outside the box thinker", glad you like.... :bow:

It's funny, I knew I had used the grommet/fittings in the past, and knew I had em at work.. But never thought of where they might be other than marine sources... I was just perusing around and found em online..

from ancor marine, page 54 on the pdf.... called "liquid tight water seals"

http://www.anchoralaska.com/2003ANCORcatalog.pdf
 
Looks great Paul, Is the switch in the middle, on the outside of the box for the cab breaker? How many amps is it? And that will feed all cab wiring right?
 
Yeah, 80 amper, that feeds alot of the base circuits, ign, wipers, heat, horn, etc... Then each circuit is protected individually..

Tho, headlights, fans, fuel pump, and a few other things are protected seperately elsewhere...
 
After referencing the drawing again...will the fans and headlights be powered right out of the "power box" from one of the relays. And the slave solenoid is for the starter right?
How did you end up doing the ground cable where it attaches to the frame and block?
Sorry to be a pest, I'm still trying to learn.
Thanks Paul.
 
No hassle at all, thats what this thread is here for...

The headlights, fans, and soon, fuel pump, are all powered from a single buss bar connecting those 5 breakers (the red vertical ones) (basically a metal strip, 1/4" wide and the length of the breakers, attachs to power in for the breakers)

That bar is fed from the common on the selector switch, so is the cab breaker, and the feed to the slave... And yes, those breakers will feed the individual relays (they will be mounted on the vertical, fender-side wall...)

The slave is fired by the "crank" wire and then goes to the starter...

The selector switch will have #1 & #2 occupied by, feeds in from the batteries, send wire for each volt gauge, and some day the ACR leads..
 
76zimmer said:
How did you end up doing the ground cable where it attaches to the frame and block?
.

forgot this one... :o

My main ground is the bolt on the frame... has a 10" 1/0 to the block, the single 1/0 ground from the batteries, and a 4 gauge going up to a feed-thru connector on the bottom of the box, at the front driverside...

2205-2207_182x182.jpg


and there is a 10 gauge jumper from that post to the radiator support.... h'light and fan grounds now run to that post...

the only thing inside the box that requires a ground at this point is the slave... but i will need it for a few other things down the road....

more pics up in a couple hrs.... :wink1:
 
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