CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

This is one of the few garage threads I'm subscribed to. Absolutely fantastic work! I can turn a wrench, but that's about it! :bow: :bow:

But then again, this is all bolt-ons right? Anyone can do that! :rolleyes: (/sarcasm+joke)
 
hey, thanks guys... :D Glad some people are digging it... I can't wait to do the rest...

I'm very happy with the engineering... I tried to come up with the strongest possible avenues... the way the front sandwiches the horn seemed to be the most bulletproof solution.. You'll notice that inside clevis was shaped somewhat, that was to have it level and allow for some up/down angle movement when installing/removing, due to the bottom plate of the b-52 not being flat..

the clevis is 1 3/16" wide.. damn clevis's are about $50 a piece in that size... :doah::doah::(:(:haha::haha:

I'd like to have the bumper done by the end of the month so I can get the suspension and axle hung, steering, etc... start installing some "bolt-ons" and having it look like a truck again... :wink1:

next order of purchases...

1 - tube

2 - bender

3 - PRP Rhino's
 
Last edited:
Umm, can I just say JEEBUS :eek: ... you're gonna snap your frame off a foot back long before those mounts come loose :haha:

Of course you'd have to be trying to pull a stuck Abrams sideways to apply that kind of force :deal:

Wow.

-- A
 
:haha: haha, yup, I figure my axles'll rip off at the u-bolts before this fails getting pulled out of the goo... :doah::haha:

on a somewhat related note... I did take a lot of consideration into sheer points, a weak link theory, etc when I came up with this... The staggered "sandwich" mounting I think will really help avoid any stress riser type cracking... along with that interior part of the clevis mount being butted right up to the lower winch mount... I'm pretty confident you could drag the truck sideways and not hurt any of it.. :wink1::wink1:

The other train of thought thru the design has been the stiffening of the frame... I'm treating the bumper/winch effectively like a crossmember.... I'm hoping this will really "stabilize" the front of the frame without having any adverse effects......... boxing the frame was/is a project I didn't want to venture down...

I also have weight on the table.. believe it or not, I'm actually trying to monitor how much steel I'm throwing at it to keep the end-result weight reasonable...

I also plan to do an "over the engine" tube brace from one "Ford style" shock tower to the other... Thats the other project I'm stoked to get to, once the 60 is hung, my shock mounts... Think I have a pretty good concept for that..

btw, can anyone recommend a free cad type program for a noob? I REALLY want to learn to draw this stuff up in CAD, and know little to nothing... any help is greatly appreciated! :bow::bow:
 
Alibre is free, but it may only be free for 30 days or something. I downloaded it once and never got around to using it. Now it has expired. :doah:

I can't recomend it because I've never used it, but I know it exists. :dunno:
 
just looked it up.. full program free for 30 days, then you get the xpress version unlimited.. i'll try it, thanks!

i did poke around and find something called CADSTD and downloaded it.. i'll have to start playing around with em...
 
I finally finished reading and all I can say is WOW!!! This is amazing work, truely amazing. You were talking about producing dashes, what about the fan shrouds, that thing is awesome. Please post up a completed wiring diagram whenever it is completed as well as parts list, as I WILL be copying a great deal of that if you dont mind. Thanks for such a quality build. Subscribed.
 
btw, can anyone recommend a free cad type program for a noob? I REALLY want to learn to draw this stuff up in CAD, and know little to nothing... any help is greatly appreciated! :bow::bow:

sketchup

It really pretty intuitive & actually can be VERY accurate, with some practice.

Check it out.

Later,
Buddy
 
Not quite ready for a photo update, but soon I should have some good stuff to post.. I'm about 1/2 way thru the bumper at this point..

But I thought I'd mention another project I'm working out the details on these days..

once I knew I was gonna have OBA, welding and a high end ps pump, I decided I wanted to have a killer belt setup.. so I decided I would run a cog setup similar to what are run in most of the offshore powerboats, etc...

stuff like this...


Frnt_l.jpg


I do remember someone here runs a cog setup, maybe Greg? :confused:

anyway, here's the company I'm using... I dealt with them years ago on a race boat I was working on... way, way quality stuff... they do Nascar stuff too...

http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/

I'm piecing together a custom setup thru them... 2 30mm radius tooth HTD main belts for the major system, and then a 6 rib serp drive off the water pump to run my York... should be pretty trick... the pair of BB's that I rigged, thats what I ran the 30mm RT setup and it was pretty bulletproof and badarse.. apparently the radius tooth also wear about 5 times less than a regular serpentine belt too..

right now, it's looking like about a $400 commitment ballpark for everything I need.. not tooooooo crazy.... :rolleyes: the website is a little difficult to navigate, but look around, pretty cool company...

basically I'm gonna have 2 cogs on the crank with guides, one driving the water pump and psc powersteering pump.. one driving the 200 amp alternator and smog pump.. then an addition serp drive in front of the radius tooth pulley on the wp, to drive the york..

would have liked to run full cog, but doing the york clutch, seems problematic...

a real, pic type update should be up next weekend, eh maybe tommorrow... :wink1:
 
You still workin on some sliders to go with it? I need some ideas for mine LOL
 
yeah, I'm concentrating on the front right now...

I wanted to wait till I get my seats, should be here in a week or so, before I went any further with the cab structure, floor, tunnel gig... stoked on getting them...

now that I hopefully am ordering tube and a bender over the next few weeks, I can finish the bumper and get on to the cage, floor, slider deal...

thats what I've been working on, drawing up ideas for the interior.. console, cage seats, etc... so hopefully I'll be into it in a month.. the cage is gonna be tied into the frame, but the sliders are just gonna be 2 x 4 integrated into the cab support structure I'm building and the sills..

I think Colby and Shawn did a writeup on a similar slider job... only difference for mine is what the sliders are attached to in addition to the sheetmetal, mine will be attached to the custom 2 x 4 cab supports too...
 
here's what most of pulleys will be kinda like... 2 of these side by side for the crank...



bg6108s.jpg


running belts like this



30mm.jpg
 
yeah. I was gonna go with the 20's, then said screw it, might as well go beef.... should look pretty tough...

I just love that positive engagement theory of the teeth in a cog setup..

the other HUGE factor is that due to the positive engagement of the teeth, you run way less pulley tension, increasing bearing life considerably too...
 
true, the grip of the belt isn't based solely on friction like it is with V- or normal serp... never thought of that
 
thanks bud, I looked at that too at the time.. sexy... the reason I couldn't go with them is I couldn't seem to come up with the custom config I need...

then I remembered that job I did and looked up Jones... for me, their "buildability" works better...

I wonder if the Black Mountain one is square tooth, gilmore style or more like the radius tooth style... they say the square cut stuff wears out somewhat quicker...

I'd love to hear a review on how he likes his setup....
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom