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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

or you could not put in a radio and listen to the sweet sound coming from the engine.........not going to happen but its a thought :D

i'll probably be driving it around for 6 months with NO tunes.... done it many, many times in my life... :wink1:

but yes, in the end, I'd like a reasonable decent system in it for camping, working, skate sessions, etc...
 
oh, one more... I think I want a vise in the back of the truck somewhere.. i don't know, removable receiver hitch kinda thing?
 
FAIL. :D


Here's a seriously divergent thread topic, pasted from an old Lounge thread on magnetic recording and coercivity....written by yours truly:



There's no WAY any sort of speaker magnet can erase the data on a hard drive. That was an old floppy disc trick, but is completely ineffective on the HDD.

The coercivity (measured in Oersted = Öe) of the media inside an HDD is insanely high compared to a floppy disc. (One of our newer HDD designs is in the 5250Öe range vs. roughly 800Öe for a floppy disc. You'll never generate enough magnetic field with a speaker to change the magnetic domains on the surface of the disk.

Keep in mind, the actuator assembly (where all the read/write heads are mounted) itself is basically a magnetic "sandwich" that sits right next to the outer tracks of the disk. If simple magnetism was enough to erase data, you'd never have any data in the first few thousand tracks of your drive!! :yikes:

There ARE products that can actually erase a hard drive..... here's one for example:

http://www.fujitsu.com/us/services/c...asure-p3m.html


A bit more involved than the "speaker trick" but this thing generates enough magnetic field to completely destroy all the user data, as well as all the original servo position information, factory format, and even blows the read elements on all the heads! Very satisfying indeed....

It is interesting to note that with the increasing areal densities that HDD manufacturers are pursuing, the coercivities are being pushed much higher. So high in fact, that the magnetic domains won't even change state when a magnetic field is applied by the write element...the magnetics are simply too strongly biased in their current positions. The drive actually has to use a small heating element located just above the media to heat the appropriate sector just before it attempts to write data. This temporarily reduces the coercivity and allows the data to be written.

Seagate calls this technology HAMR (Heat-Assisted Magnetic Recording)...

Cool stuff.


:usaflag:

cool stuff indeed!

But I still question a strong magnet affecting the actual functioning of a computer as a whole. Maybe it wont erase the hard drive but sub magnets ARE powerful and I would think the possibility of it making problems is still valid, is it not?

Maybe not Im no expert....
 
Amps are fine near the sub no problem at all there. I would think it would be fine to run an amp near your computer as well, other than they put off heat.

I was ging to ask if you planed on some sort of ventilation for the comp as well as filtration. I know if I dont stay on top of it my home computers vent in the side of the case collects a lot of dust.


ONE MORE COOL THING! Liquid cooled computers and liquid cooled amps could share the same coolant. A bit of creative plumbing and lighting could make for a pretty awesome effect. And the coolant can be had in differnt colors such as...............orange
 
make the panel between the seats clear, pc components inside with orange led's... eat your heart out pimp my ride!!!!! :haha:

liquid cooled, heck I was scared to do it at home... but strangely enough, I'd consider it in the truck... :doah::wink1:

screw just the liquid cooled, i want liquid submerged! :pimp: :haha:



one_year2.JPG
 
the more I think about this, the more i like the idea of dedicating that entire area between the seats to the PC, probably the amp and associated components... isolated, roomy, easily filtered and cooled... and run the subs in the back... gonna have to figure out a spot.....
 
here's one I found when researching car pc's... controlling volume easily/quickly, as opposed to using the touchscreen or something..


these are pretty trick... put it down in the console somewhere....



powermate_1.jpg
 
That is cool. I have often thought it would be cool to have a PC based ster.......uh entertainment/nav/control/display ( I could go on and on here couldnt I?)

Anyway a computer to control as much as possible in a vehicle. USB power windows and locks? no gauges just a display? Im sure it could all be done with enough money.
 
I'm diggin the griffin knob for the volume :bow:

Lookin' awesome Paul, you never cease to amaze me :bow:
 
with wifi hooked up,you could get on here and update in between wheelin as you make videos.that would be really cool.if i was gona put in subs,i was gona use the space where you would have behind the b pillar between the rear wheelwell behind where the side panel sits.can be built waterproof with a boat speaker of some sort and never have an issue.when i was skatin,i had removable 6x9s mounted to my rollbar.i would just unbolt them and with extra long speaker wire put them outside my truck.definitely not as trick as your setup but it worked.a ten inch woofer only needs 1 to 1.5 cubic feet to move the air correctly.i found this site when i did a search to find air volume inside a speaker enclosure.
HTML:
http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.html
.every speaker design has its own volume needs,but this is a baseline.i built a few speaker boxes when i was a kid and used the speaker info on the box to determine the minimum space that the speakers will run correctly.sounded awesome every time.
 
with wifi hooked up,you could get on here and update in between wheelin as you make videos.that would be really cool.if i was gona put in subs,i was gona use the space where you would have behind the b pillar between the rear wheelwell behind where the side panel sits.can be built waterproof with a boat speaker of some sort and never have an issue.when i was skatin,i had removable 6x9s mounted to my rollbar.i would just unbolt them and with extra long speaker wire put them outside my truck.definitely not as trick as your setup but it worked.a ten inch woofer only needs 1 to 1.5 cubic feet to move the air correctly.i found this site when i did a search to find air volume inside a speaker enclosure.
HTML:
http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.html
.every speaker design has its own volume needs,but this is a baseline.i built a few speaker boxes when i was a kid and used the speaker info on the box to determine the minimum space that the speakers will run correctly.sounded awesome every time.



I've always planned on a pair of marine 6 x 9's mounted in the side panels all the way in the back.. probably wont do a "remote" capability, but that'd be a "fun" option for sure...

just sorta trying to find homes for stuff now, so I don't "paint myself into a corner".... i'd probably run a marine sub too.. just another reason for me to get the back cage in!!!!!!!!!!!! :woot::wink1:

I'm already drawing up an enclosure for the PC, etc.... filtered, fans, some cool lighting maybe, etc...
























gotta start playing the lottery........ :wink1: or at least working 55 hr weeks... :haha:

it's all cash baby..... the labor is the easy part... :crazy:
 
Paul,

Don't be shy about looking underneath for sub space either. There are usually some good "pockets" of space just behind the front seats as the rear floor steps up... on the outside of the framerails, and tucked just inside of the outer bedskins.

Not to give away TOO many of my secrets, but that's where my subs are going to be finding their breathing room. You can build the boxes out of steel, throw in a bunch of stiffening triangles on the interior of the box to stiffen it up, and then load it up with your favorite Dynamat / Brownbread or other panel deadening product.

The tradeoff is that the speaker is likely to be upfacing and will need a VERY strong perforated grille so that you don't crush it when you walk back there, but when you're fighting for every inch of useable space it's worth considering.

:usaflag:
 
yeah, I need to do some reading on enclosures, requirements, etc.... I'm pretty damn tight at the lower section behind the seats with the cage, etc.. my rear floor is actually moved forward about 4 or 5" from stock too, making even less space...

you can see in this shot, how tight it is behind the seats... not that there isn't room, but i'd like to leave it open.... even tho you basically wont be able to get to it once the wall and PC enclosure are there...


backcage003.jpg






the sub enclosure will be done in the composite glass I use no matter what.. I had decided years ago, that this stuff could possibly be an ultimate speaker cabinet material... you can't imagine how dense the composite is...

I think I have an idea.. gonna draw something up now...

question for the stereo guru's.... would it be a big/good/huge advantage to run a pair of subs over a single 10? either a pair of 10's, maybe 8's, something... 2 seperate enclosures? cuz I kinda like to keep things equilateral, paired up... one on each side of the bed?
 
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sheesh, I just came up with another one that's gonna kick my arse... :doah::crazy::haha:
 
question for the stereo guru's.... would it be a big/good/huge advantage to run a pair of subs over a single 10? either a pair of 10's, maybe 8's, something... 2 seperate enclosures? cuz I kinda like to keep things equilateral, paired up... one on each side of the bed?

Simple answer.....yes.

The cone surface area X excursion of cone = total displacement of air you get.

It takes a lot of air movement to give you convincing bass, so the more surface area you've got (whether it's more subs or larger subs) the easier it will be to get the SPL you want at low frequencies. Ported boxes will give you a greater output all other things being equal, but it's a lot easier to build a lousy sounding ported box than a sealed one. I'd go with a properly sized sealed enclosure (or two) and make sure to feed the subs enough power to keep them working efficiently and accurately.

It certainly looks like you could sneak a couple 'cubes of space behind your b-pillar cagework and tucked into each bedwall pocket...firing straight across at each other would work fine too.


:usaflag:
 
It certainly looks like you could sneak a couple 'cubes of space behind your b-pillar cagework and tucked into each bedwall pocket...firing straight across at each other would work fine too.


:usaflag:

thats what I was thinking... :wink1: :bow:
 
well, slow out of the gate this weekend, little under the weather...


here's some fodder for thought..... a very general design of the PC enclosure... fresh air from behind the seats, exhausted out the top...




consolemockup.jpg
 
just some general ramblings about the above depiction...

the amp/pc locations are subject to change... the PC may end up on the bottom, with the amp mounted to the back wall of the enclosure...

all walls made from composite glass.. the bottom and back will be fixed.... the fanned sides and front will be removable..

I'm thinking a piece of stout expanded steel for the top exhaust, with a light foam element on the inside..

opinions and suggestions appreciated....
 

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