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87 K5 Build...Hmmm, whats that Ryoken up to? stay tuned...

i think youre totally right about it being original.looks like it should take a pretty good side shock load and not crumple.you triangulated it well also.it does look like the rear cage of a micky thompson truck.i watched those truck flip end over end,get flipped over on the wheels,and still finish the race.haha.
 
some of today's stuff... got the inner angle piece up to the b-hoop in... also the downtube to the wheelwell...



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rear018.jpg




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gonna work on it some thru the week.... I'd like to have the cage DONE by the end of next weekend.....
 
Looks excellent!!!:bow::bow:

How's the not smoking thing going? Hope all is well!:thumb:

really good... eating a bit much, but thats fine.... it really hasn't been that bad, surprisingly..

honestly, i'd have to go back in this thread to see when i quit.. it's at least 3 weeks, if not 4 or more...

thanks for asking! :bow:
 
I really like the cage, it doesn't look like you will lose too much room in the bed.

you bring up the build note of the day! :D

throughout the cage build it's been a design compromise....

if you go back and look at the overhead concept drawing, you'll see the inner angle one I put in today goes from the middle of the b-hoop to 1/2way down the long angled one...

I changed that.. I wanted to come out the back opposite the 2 overhead console tubes in the cab... this left me much more headroom up front by the b-hoop..

as the composite panels get done and the interior is coming together, lights, cage padding, etc I think keeping them "tighter" will have worked better...

I also kinda like how both corners will kind of surround the head area of the seat, if that makes sense...... :crazy::haha:
 
here's a couple other shots...





rear025.jpg



and a drawing of the next 2, and last pieces, to go on that side...


rear021a.jpg
 
for those of you wondering (as was I) the work Paul is doing would cost well over 3K to have done. I just visited a hot rod shop, (Jamieson Fabrication Unlimited) and he builds cages/frames etc. He said he built a 10 point cage with additional supports in the dash, and seat mounting bars, it was tied to the frame out at the radiator support and back to the wheelwells in a Ramcharger and he charged 2300$ for it, materials and labor. He charges 60$/hr. for his work. So what are you up to Paul, about 5K worth now?
 
every bit of that!

material - about 200' in the cage... (about 450 lbs for those who may be curious) about $1200.......

labor, sheesh.. I don't know, 120 to 150 hrs so far? if not a bit more... labor is the real killer... full, full shop, right tools, hydro, end-mill and such, 1/2 that time..

100 hrs at $50 an hr (usually what i charge for sidework.) thats $6200 right there... and i'll bet i have 200 hrs in it all said and done, if not more.. I wouldn't have any guilt charging someone 6g's for that cage...
 
here's a couple other shots...
and a drawing of the next 2, and last pieces, to go on that side...


rear021a.jpg
Very, very nice work! but...
It would be better to complete the "X" that is started on the bottom to the top. Instead of the offset that is there now. It will be less likely to fold.
 
I know.. more of the compromise gig... i figure the 2 "V's are relatively close on the mid bar...

i think the top looks killer and triangulates nicely... if i ditched that, and carried that lower X above the mid bar, 1 - the lines would look stupid above the bedrail, really stupid, and 2 - I'm not so sure it would be stronger... yes, there is an offset, but the top 1/2 would be triangulated waaaay worse...

i was gonna make those orange ones shorter, so the left one ends under the top "V".. but I need as much space in that lower triangle as I can for the sub on each side...
 
Paul,

Looks great! :waytogo:

One small change that might give you the same effect (better strength) is to change those small stubs coming off the wheelwells so that the run diagonally forward into the other cage "node" that is being created where the upper bars are converging.

Basically you'd move the mounting point about 8" forward on that horizontal bar and leave the mounting plate in it's current spot. It's a simple change, but it would be more "correct".

Having two different cage nodes within that small of an area will create almost a "shearing" effect in a roll. the horizontal bar will end up distorting into more of an "S" shape as the upper cage transfers energy to it.

Just a quick thought from an "uninvolved party"....sometimes an extra set of eyes can show you things just a little differently.

:D




:usaflag:
 
I know.. more of the compromise gig... i figure the 2 "V's are relatively close on the mid bar...

i think the top looks killer and triangulates nicely... if i ditched that, and carried that lower X above the mid bar, 1 - the lines would look stupid above the bedrail, really stupid, and 2 - I'm not so sure it would be stronger... yes, there is an offset, but the top 1/2 would be triangulated waaaay worse...

i was gonna make those orange ones shorter, so the left one ends under the top "V".. but I need as much space in that lower triangle as I can for the sub on each side...
Sorry, I was just curious. As long as it was a calculated decision. I don't want to be the "It needs more triangulation" guy. (thou I may have just started it.)
It does look really good. Maybe I'm just jealous.:bow:
 
nah, it's cool.. I appreciate the constructive criticism and don't want to seem unappreciative... no need to apologize to me, thanks for the input.... you guys are right, but I'm trying to find ways in my head to justify it, cuz it's the convenient way to do it..

honestly, the cage is waaay overkill as it is... the trucks not gonna see high speed rollovers or anything..... I'll play around with it in Paint tonight, maybe I can come up with something i like better......
 
alrighty....

haven't been able to come up with anything... mondays suck all the creativity out of me..... :crazy::doah:

anybody have any suggestions on where to go from here?



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correcting that downtube to an angle is screwing me up trying to tie those lower flange areas in... and I really wanna make that section in front of the wheelwell an area for a sub..

I can run that front tube in the same spot and tie into the angled downtube.. but I can't figure anything out for behind the well... and it also screws with a sub spot...


rear021c.jpg



right now I'm leaning toward the original plan of attack...
 
nothing full vert and a little hammer/dolly action wont fix... :wink1:
 
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