88 K5 Diesel - Tranny/Trans Adapter Install

[82355]

And the heaviest pressure plate I've ever had the pleasure of trying to manhandle.

I don't mean to make fun of you, because it's all relative, but damn that made me laugh out loud for some reason. I am use to working on semis and tractors, so I am always amazed by how tiny these clutches are.

I like that you made the switch from the auto to an SM465. I would have looked for an SM465/NP208 combo. It is a direct replacement for what you have currently.

Martin

 

[tRustyK5]

I ran a SM465/205 for many many years with about 4" of suspension lift, a 60/14 and a 6.2 diesel. Rear driveline was never an issue, other than being long enough to easily bash rocks with it. Angularity wise it was A-OK. The front can be an issue where a high angle CV is a great idea, if your suspension is soft enough.

This was it's last iteration: 6.2 diesel, NV4500, NP203/205 with a NWF doubler. 1410's front and rear, front with 20" of slip rear with 8" of slip, both extra heavy wall. D60, 14 bolt with rear detroit and 4.56's in both. 6" custon Alcan's up front, 2.5" Alcan's in the rear with a shackle flip. Front diff 1.5" forward, rear 1.5" back. 12 point cage, full convertable. All sitting on some 39.5's. Cool, but unstreetable IMO which led to it being parted out. Sadly not much remains, although I do have a 1990 Blazer I'm working on right now that's much tamer and civilized.

 

[scottystills]

I don't mean to make fun of you, because it's all relative, but damn that made me laugh out loud for some reason. I am use to working on semis and tractors, so I am always amazed by how tiny these clutches are.

I like that you made the switch from the auto to an SM465. I would have looked for an SM465/NP208 combo. It is a direct replacement for what you have currently.

Martin

Oh trust me I'm well aware. It probably wouldn't be so bad, if I weren't hunched over in a dirt driveway. Waiting on my permit to pour a pad, then you won't hear any more complaining!

Wouldn't have minded another 208, I had no complaints with the one I took out, but $200 for a low mile SM465 and 205, I'm not going to argue. I was going to end up needing new DSs when I swapped the diffs anyway, and probably would have done a SYE, so it's a wash really.

 

[scottystills]

I ran a SM465/205 for many many years with about 4" of suspension lift, a 60/14 and a 6.2 diesel. Rear driveline was never an issue, other than being long enough to easily bash rocks with it. Angularity wise it was A-OK. The front can be an issue where a high angle CV is a great idea, if your suspension is soft enough.

Totally what I was thinking. 1410s are good to 28* vs 20* on a 1350 (IIRC) so the rear should be just fine. The intention is for 4" Alcans and the 4" shackle flips that are kicking around here somewhere.

 

[82355]

I was going to end up needing new DSs when I swapped the diffs anyway, and probably would have done a SYE, so it's a wash really.

For what?

Martin

 

[scottystills]

For what?

Martin

Two reasons.

1. With a longer travel suspension the slip on the 208 wasn't going to do it. Also with a SYE I would need a driveshaft with a build in slip.

2. So I can upgrade the rear to 1410 again for longer travel suspension and 8" lift vs 4".

 

[82355]

I wasn't aware you were going to lift it more.

Martin

 

[scottystills]

Well, after many months hiatus (I have no idea how to spell that) I've gotten back to work now that it's a little warmer out. Unfortunately didn't get my garage pad poured in time in the fall, and I'm too impatient to wait for it to dry up. Fortunately, I've gotten some nice parts in!

DIY4X Dash

Autometer "American Platinum" gauges

Luckily I've also taken down a donor vehicle, 1991 Dodge D250. Which gave me some fancy Autometer gauges, boost, pyro, and diesel tach. Also pulled the getrag and NP205, driveshafts (will need modifying obviously) and the Dana 60 front axle, Dana 70-2U rear axle! Not bad for $800!

Unfortunately, the axles are stock with the 3.54:1 ratio in them. I'll take it in to have the gears swapped and some lockers installed once it's put together.

 

[scottystills]

Today... Got rid of my old wheels/tires, and pulled the corp 10s. As you can see, not the best "shop" environment. But whatever. Exhausted and progress is better than no progress I suppose. Now as long as the thing doesn't sink to the frame rails like Luke's x-wing on dagobah...

Decided halfway through the day to pull the bilge pump out of my boat to drain my personal lake. Worked not too bad! Faster than evaporation anyway...

And yep, that's the new Dana 60 under the front (semi attached - I decided I REALLY needed a shower and a nap at this point). Gladly also came with some Warn standard hubs. Also some nice 2" wheels spacers, front and rear. Should get some parts money for them on Kijiji

 

[scottystills]

Oh almost forgot my question! That donor truck also came with a fairly new 5" BDS lift in it. Was going to use the springs just to get it out of the dirt for now, but starting to wonder if I should just use them. I've got Sky 4" shackle flips in the rear, could just use a zero rate or something in the front to match.

Thoughts?

 

[Russell]

Does the Dodge run the same length spring up front as a Chevy? If so, midaswell!

Also, just wanted to say hello from another Albertan! Have to get you to bring your K5 up to the Edmonton area for a couple runs this summer... You guys in Calgary have it way too good as far as places to go wheeling is concerened! I have to drive at least 7 or 8 hrs for any decent wheeling...

 

[scottystills]

Hey Russel! Once I get this damn thing together, absolutely! Always looking for new people and places to wheel.

Springs are the same length, but unfortunately have also discovered they're perched 0.5" wider than the K5 hangers (in the front at least, haven't gotten to the rear yet).

Given that the pass side perch is machined into the pumpkin, I'm guessing it's going to be easier to move the hangars. Anybody happen to know if anyone makes a kit for this, or shall I break out the welder?

 

[scottystills]

Axles are going in!

Well, got the front mocked up today. Tomorrow I'll drop the fuel tank and get the rear buttoned up. From the look of the front I'm not going to have enough lift with the springs I've got, but the rear has the Dodge factory blocks and we'll see how much difference the shackle flips make. Worst case I'll leave the rear as is (if it's higher of course) and if it's close go with an add-a-leaf in the front. Or order a front only from Alcan possibly...



Keeping in mind these tires are a little smaller than the ones going in. These are 37" Toyos. I'm still waiting on delivery of my wheels to get my Nittos put together.

 

[scottystills]

On a side note... I really don't want to put too much lift on here, 6-8" tops. The springs on the front have it sitting at about 5-6" right now and they're DEFINITELY going to need more. Not wanting to get too high, trimming it is. Looking at cutouts, but they really don't give too much clearance (Bushwhacker anyway). Any suggestions?

 

[scottystills]

So! Got my shackle flips bolted up today, went to put the new fuel sender into the tank to bolt it back up before the rear axle... Problem, the Autometer fuel level sender isn't anything like the one that's mounted into the tank. Is it a problem with diesel over gas, or am I losing my mind?

Existing sender including pickups:


New sender:


Anybody run into this before? Missed the Autometer tech support line by 20 minutes, probably won't be able to wait until Monday. What can I say, OCD is an EXCELLENT motivator! In lieu of the rear axle, started ripping out the old sub-dash so I can get the DIY in. It's just never easy...

 

[scottystills]

On a different note, got my crossover steering and hydro assist today! So many parts, so little time...




Also got in the clutch fork boot and bellcrank today.

Question: Has anyone converted a late 80s automatic trans to a manual using the linkage clutch setup instead of the hydraulic? I got the new bellcrank in thinking the one I pulled from the K30 donor was longer because the frame rails were wider. Now that I get the new one it's exactly the same dimensions, and not 100% if it's going to fit in there without some interesting mods. Any experience on this one?

 

[82355]

I have.

Just move your bracket on the frame till it works.

Martin

 

[scottystills]

Well I've finally gotten around to getting some work done. Never seems like there's enough hours in the weekend to get at it. So the done list:

Shackle flips
BDS Dodge 5" lift springs
New bushings/hardware (obviously)
Have the new wheels and tires on - Pro Comp steel wheels, 16x10, 2.5" BS with 385-70r16 Mud Grapplers
Original steering components are gone. New PSC steering box is in, have to get the pulley swapped then get all the plumbing done this week.


Here's how it's sitting today:



Dash is ripped apart, wiring's almost done - HVAC's been rigged to split between floor and defrost, no more vents (no sense with the top off all summer)


And the DIY4X dash is ready to go in. Masked off and coated the top in bedliner. Maybe this'll keep me from losing my phone all the time



Should have taken a pic probably when the mask had been removed, but it is what it is. Looks good at any rate.

On its way now:

Zone Offroad shocks
Cut out flares (creative installation required)

This week trying to the hydro steering in and plumbed. I've got the clutch and everything done but found there's a dent and cracks in the bellhousing that came with my SM465. Later this afternoong going to take a "crack" at banging it back into shape and welding the seams so I can get that mounted up and the tranny/tcase stabbed.

 

[scottystills]

I have.

Just move your bracket on the frame till it works.

Martin

Just going to weld an L bracket with a hole drilled to the frame rail to mount the bell crank.

Should the crank be out from the bell housing enough so the lever attached to the pedal linkage will clear the outside of the frame rail? Where it seems to line up the best to the clutch fork, the outside lever is catching on the frame. I'm not sure exactly what the range of motion needs to look like until I hook up the linkage, so I'll play with that tomorrow.

 

[82355]

That doesn't look tight at all, but it could be. I'll have to look at one tomorrow. The bracket for the ball is riveted to the top of the frame from the factory.

Martin