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'88 K5 - Running Down A Dream

Ground up restoration of my '88 K5. The plan is to go through every inch of the truck and fix or replace pretty much everything that needs it. This will also be a full vert conversion and I plan to make the vehicle look more like a 73-75 than 88.
Things are moving along. Had a buddy help me the past two days. He's green at best but still very helpful. He cleaned the housing today while I took off the carrier and pinion bearings. There was so much mud in the pinion bearings. I put a bunch of extensions together and beat the old inner seals out today too. One had been replaced and the other needed it. I also removed the outer pinion races from the housing. I did the deep but not too deep diagonal cut with some heat method to remove the pinion and carrier inner bearing races after I removed the cages. You'll see it pictured below. I struck differential gold and salvaged an intact 0.033in pinion shim. It's now in the super top secret container so I don't bend it (a cool whip container). Tomorrow I plan to finish cleaning the axle, drive the inner seals in, drive in pinion races, and get pinion depth set. Hopefully 0.033in will put me in the game.

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Things are moving along. Had a buddy help me the past two days. He's green at best but still very helpful. He cleaned the housing today while I took off the carrier and pinion bearings. There was so much mud in the pinion bearings. I put a bunch of extensions together and beat the old inner seals out today too. One had been replaced and the other needed it. I also removed the outer pinion races from the housing. I did the deep but not too deep diagonal cut with some heat method to remove the pinion and carrier inner bearing races after I removed the cages. You'll see it pictured below. I struck differential gold and salvaged an intact 0.033in pinion shim. It's now in the super top secret container so I don't bend it (a cool whip container). Tomorrow I plan to finish cleaning the axle, drive the inner seals in, drive in pinion races, and get pinion depth set. Hopefully 0.033in will put me in the game.

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Things are moving along. Had a buddy help me the past two days. He's green at best but still very helpful. He cleaned the housing today while I took off the carrier and pinion bearings. There was so much mud in the pinion bearings. I put a bunch of extensions together and beat the old inner seals out today too. One had been replaced and the other needed it. I also removed the outer pinion races from the housing. I did the deep but not too deep diagonal cut with some heat method to remove the pinion and carrier inner bearing races after I removed the cages. You'll see it pictured below. I struck differential gold and salvaged an intact 0.033in pinion shim. It's now in the super top secret container so I don't bend it (a cool whip container). Tomorrow I plan to finish cleaning the axle, drive the inner seals in, drive in pinion races, and get pinion depth set. Hopefully 0.033in will put me in the game.

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Great photos. Is the last one a picture of the HF shop press?
 
Great photos. Is the last one a picture of the HF shop press?
No that's the HF bearing separator. The press is a big H frame setup. I couldn't get the pinion into the press in a way that made me feel safe since the bearing was bottomed out so tight and really needed a even larger separator. I might could have tried it with the cage off but the torch method worked for the most part. Took a lot a heat for the pinion bearing. About 2 minutes of it to move a 1/4in. Then heat and repeat. The carriers were a snap. I cut them with a Dremel. I'm gonna drop you some links.



 
Ok, so I got nothing done today. Ran into another one if those weird problems. Went to drive in the inner seals and it's near impossible to get them in straight. All the YouTube videos I watched made it look super easy. I even made my own seal installer tool. They make a tool just for these seals, it fits Dana 30, 44, 60 and GM 10 bolt, but I didn't really think it was necessary. My problem is, I cannot get the seals to start straight. I've tried several different attempts but nothing works and both Timken and National seals. I used my seal driver tool to center them but the still end up crooked. I actually destroyed two. I have also used a giant 1.5in socket that fits them perfect but no luck. Fortunately, I discovered the seals in stock at several parts stores in town. I have one good Timken left. I sanded it down by hand a few .001s with some 80grit and then polished it back out. I can start by hand now but it still tries to go crooked on either sides of the axle tubes I try. I put it in the deep freeze over night. I'm hoping it'll fall in there in the morning. I may put some silicone behind it once I figure it out. I know that eventually I'll sand it done to where it will fit or the freezer trick will work. Didn't know I'd get to play machinist today and lose whole day over two seals.

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It's the small victories that count. I wasn't able to get out into the shop until the afternoon due to church and the baby, but the first thing I did this morning when I walked the dog was try to tap in that seal after being in the freezer overnight. A few taps with a hammer and it went right in straight. I about stroked out and said prayer, then drove it back out so I could put some sealant around it. I went down to O'Reilly's Auto today and bought two more seals in case I destroyed another. The seals I got were National brand and were a bit larger in diameter. I got 2.283 for the Timkens and 2.291 for the Nationals. No way I was going to sand that much out by hand. I had to get them down to about 2.278 for them to fit. I came up with a way to do it on the bench vise with a Dremel and put a mark with a sharpie on there and counted how many rotations I did. I'd do three or four spins and then measure. Finally got it within a tolerance I could work with and shot the other one right in. The seals were starting to be a source of anxiety, I'm glad they're done. In other news, am I the only one that gets super nervous when they have to drive in bearing races? I shot both bearing races in for the pinion today as well. One of them started crooked but I was able to adjust it and get it to shoot straight with my seal driver. I even had them in the freezer for a few hours and they still were hard to get in. Knocking in and driving seals and races always makes me super nervous.

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Get some bearing race driver punches.

Martin

I've got a set from Amazon I used. They worked but I wish I had shopped around more, the fit was a little wonky.

Question for you, would you use Lucas Marine grease or Lucas Red-N-Tacky for the seal lips or does it really matter?

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Those are seal drivers, a little different than what I am talking about.

These are bearing race driver punches.

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Martin
 
Those are seal drivers, a little different than what I am talking about.

These are bearing race driver punches.
Oh I didn't know those existed and yes I do need those!

What grease would you use on those inner seals?
 
I went back to math class this morning. Figuring out the pinion depth wasn't as easy as I had hoped. Took four tries to find a shim depth that worked. What concerns me is that it's 0.048in worth of shims. That seems really thick considering OEM was 0.032. I used the tool Ratech makes to find the appropriate shim thickness. I'm not sold that it's accurate. It has mixed reviews online. I just really don't want to fork over $500 for a depth checker. The way the tool works is it references off the bearing journal from the pinion head and you subtract the number printed on the tool from what you get with a caliper. It's not the most accurate way to do it so you take about 10 to 20 measurements and then do the average before you subtract. You'll see on the notepad, if you can read it, how I did it. My thoughts are to get to the carrier setup and paint some teeth and just see how it looks. I'm tempted to not check the backlash this go around since I didn't change carriers. If it's a horrible pattern I can always do it again. In other news, you haven't lived until you've tried to torque a ring gear to a differential in a vice that's not bolted down. My other dinky little vice on my table wouldn't hold it well and the table has dolly wheels which I couldn't get locked so it rolled. I did it the floor with my Wilton. It was awful. I had to use my biggest torque wrench but I was finally able to torque them all. I really need an extra set of hands and a bigger shop table. Each bolt got a coat of loctite too so those bolts are not coming back out. The mailman delivered a nice little shim driver I got from eBay for $15 today too. This should help get the carrier shims back in the housing. Can't believe how much the Yukon Gear driver was. Glad I found this one.

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I got my feelings hurt today. My new shop press got it's inaugural first run and installing the carrier bearings was quick and easy. After that things took a turn towards the frustrating. Turns out my dial indicator was broke. The needle won't return to zero. Ordered a new one with better reviews. Then it gets wild. I installed the carrier and decided I'd at least check the contact pattern, maybe I'll be lucky. Once I snugged the carrier bolts it was so tight I could barely turn the yoke by hand. The gears were meshed. I'm about 99% sure my pinion is way too tall because if the backlash were off that bad how would that giant 3.08 pinion have ever fit. Unfortunately, the tool from Ratech can only be read one way so if it's off I have to rely strictly on contact pattern for pinion depth. Also, I don't have very many shims. I decided to take the carrier back out and take a break and order a shim kit. I've got a friend that may have an actual depth checking gauge that he used on his 10 bolt years ago. I'm going to wait and do it that way otherwise I could spend ages playing with shims. I guess the upside is, the rear housing should go quicker since I'll have some experience.

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My front carrier also had shims that went on before the carrier bearings, I'm guessing from your pics that yours didn't have them
 
yeah, mines a D44 and i just changed out bearings and seals on existing gears so i didn't have to do a gear set up like you're doing. if you found a friend with a good pinion depth tool thats a score cause those things are like $500+. sounds like you have a plan. look forward to seeing the contact patterns, good luck!
 
Not much going on here. While I wait for tools, I decided to go ahead and get the new front brake hoses and calipers attached. A little different job than the front axle I've been engrossed with, but I was getting bored waiting on tools/parts and had the time. Of course, the PO used some dinky bracket and bent the the hard lines instead of getting longer lines back when he installed the old 4in lift. I corrected these issues. The lines were corroded on there and I couldn't get them apart. Wound up cutting the old hoses with tin snips and using an impact and liquid wrench. Popped right off. I used the ORD SS steel hoses and jam nutted them to the correct bracket and attached the hard lines that I bent back to stock position. It was easy, and need I needed an easy job after getting my butt kicked by the front axle. Only thing that's odd is how long these new lines are. I hope that don't get in the way while driving and turning. Hopeful stuff will show up from FedEx this evening but I don't trust their tracking so it may be a few days yet. They're under staffed at our hub here so the tracking is rarely correct.

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