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'89 Blazer LS swapped DD/Adventure Rig

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MAX89K5 said:
They are no worse than any other 35 I have seen come thru the shop. I may have to have them trued and road forced to get them perfect.
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Do you have 4 wheelparts out there? They balanced my 40s lol. smooth as glass and probably over 200 pounds a corner!
 
We do not... nothing even close.

Problem is there are no specialty shops that do off-road tires so honestly no one gives a sh*t!

How did they balance yours?
 
MAX89K5 said:
We do not... nothing even close.

Problem is there are no specialty shops that do off-road tires so honestly no one gives a sh*t!

How did they balance yours?
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Damn that sucks. Most shops here wont even entertain anything over 33s. Im not even sure how they balanced them lol. They have the rim weights like any other car or truck.

How about the golf ball trick? Seems like you could get more effect with those.
 
MAX89K5 said:
We do not... nothing even close.

Problem is there are no specialty shops that do off-road tires so honestly no one gives a sh*t!

How did they balance yours?
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was trying to figure out how to mount my gas pedal and your truck came to mind. how did you go about mounting the gas pedal in your drive by wire setup?
 
I cut the pedal off the DBW setup and welded the blazer pedal to it. It took a lot of trial and error to get it right, just tack it at first and play around with it til it feels right. (TWSS)
 
Something is up with those tires, I would call the manufacturer and see what they suggest.

I run around 8 ounces of .20 gram air soft pellets on 37" interco's with no issues up to 65 mph.
 
skunked said:
Something is up with those tires, I would call the manufacturer and see what they suggest.

I run around 8 ounces of .20 gram air soft pellets on 37" interco's with no issues up to 65 mph.
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I think that's what I'll do, before they get too old. The dynamic balance has definitely helped but they still aren't right. Its getting really irritating...
 
mrk5 said:
I have only owned factory equipped hydroboost setups. My current truck, 89 R3500 crew cab with TBI350, came with the aluminum master cylinder with plastic reservoir. If that's the reservoir you like you should be able to use that for an application reference.

The hydroboost unit I have now I had rebuilt and given a "high-flow" treatment by VancoPBS on Pirate4x4. That was done when I had my 84 K5 and it was a hydroboost I had pulled from another truck that I don't remember what it was. So my current hydroboost has been in 3 different vehicles which leads me to believe there's not much difference despite different part number listings.

Since I've only had factory equipped hydroboost trucks, I've never messed with proportioning valves.

I don't think there's any one hydroboost better than another.
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After running a cast iron master cylinder for the past couple months, It leaks like a sieve from the reservoir cap, regardless of fluid level. Its ruining my firewall paint and inner fender.

Parts houses don't show any listings for an aluminum master for hydroboost so I did some digging. I finally found one for hydroboost after I got a part number from a GM website. Although it look different from yours, it will work and most importantly it won't leak!!

Its a Cardone 10-2029, its the funky lookin kind with two separate reservoirs and caps

EDIT: This master cylinder did NOT fit a hyrdroboost unit. I ended up using a 3/4 ton master from a 88-98. It works great and doesn't leak.

Screenshot_2015-12-20-23-47-02-1.png
 
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MAX89K5 I was reading through your build, I must say I like it gives me great ideas. I already have an nv4500 in my blazer and planning to do an ls swap. I was wondering what kind of remote start system you used in yours, any info would be a great help
 
85K5Jake said:
MAX89K5 I was reading through your build, I must say I like it gives me great ideas. I already have an nv4500 in my blazer and planning to do an ls swap. I was wondering what kind of remote start system you used in yours, any info would be a great help
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Hey Jake, the remote start system I have is an Avital model 4103. Once I eliminated the wires I did not need, I was left with 12 wires. I made the connections and it has worked great for me. You can further simplify the wiring, but I decided to hook up the parking light and horn wires along with a few other additional features.

I don't know if you have seen it, but I have an entire write up on the remote start. It is linked at the beginning of the thread.
 
I just bought a Avital 3100LX and plan to install mainly for keyless entry and interior lights while entering. I had an old Clifford in there at one point and was fairly straight forward (but was like 15 years ago). Do you have some tips on color of wires you tied into and location?
Lock/Unlock wires
parking light wire
interior dome light
horn wire
I'll check out your link thread, thanks!
Any other help would be awesome!
 
jeff in co said:
I just bought a Avital 3100LX and plan to install mainly for keyless entry and interior lights while entering. I had an old Clifford in there at one point and was fairly straight forward (but was like 15 years ago). Do you have some tips on color of wires you tied into and location?

Lock/Unlock wires
parking light wire
interior dome light
horn wire
I'll check out your link thread, thanks!
Any other help would be awesome!
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Everything you need should be in the thread!
 
Got my transfer case pulled out the other day to install an output seal in the transmission and an input seal in the tcase....

Has anyone every tried to remove a seal that is 8 inches inside of the transmission case?!?! it was a biatch! I eventually got creative and found a 7ish" long self-tapping screw and ran it into the seal. Then I used a pry bar to grab the head of the screw and pry against the case to pop the seal out. I installed the new seal with a hunk of PVC pipe, gotta do what you gotta do, right?!

Anyway its been a few days and no leaks whatsoever (yet) so I am pretty pleased. I was tired of smelling that nasty synchromesh fluid!



Next up is finishing my tcase shifter....... its only been like 3 months lmfao
 
Not much to report here guys.

I do have a question though:

I need to build a 2" fuel line that goes from my fuel filter/regulator to the fuel rail. (Old one started to leak in cold weather)

I am AN fitting illiterate, I have researched for a while and everything I do I end up with a headache lol.

I am using a corvette filter/regulator so the line would need a male GM disconnect on one side and a female one on the other. Both 3/8" or the AN equivalent.

Does anyone know what I need? Or point me in the right direction please!
 
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Looks like the pieces I used but I bought them separate from summit.
 
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