What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'89 K5 The Bulldozer

1989 K5, linked, caged, backhalfed, LS3, Hero case, on 42's
Overview Gallery Discussion
Fastereddie said:
Are you saying 2.2 degrees bent? Because that’s a lot.
Click to expand...

Yup, 2.2 degrees camber difference between driver and pass. 1.9 at the tubes and the rest from spindle. I don't have an alignment bar or a precision ground bar that's long enough so I'm just going off of angle measurements. Which of course can mean little, especially with manufacturing variances etc...
 
Tnsejed said:
Yup, 2.2 degrees camber difference between driver and pass. 1.9 at the tubes and the rest from spindle. I don't have an alignment bar or a precision ground bar that's long enough so I'm just going off of angle measurements. Which of course can mean little, especially with manufacturing variances etc...
Click to expand...
What is the camber measuring on the good side? .5 degree or less I would think?
I think 2.2 degrees is almost a 1/2” per foot. In my noodle it seems like that would be really trying to deflect that axle shaft.
 
Fastereddie said:
What is the camber measuring on the good side? .5 degree or less I would think?
I think 2.2 degrees is almost a 1/2” per foot. In my noodle it seems like that would be really trying to deflect that axle shaft.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay. I only get about 5 minutes every now and then to work on it until something else needs my attention around here. God damned orange light has to be green or else skynet doesn't approve.

2.2 degrees camber difference from one end to the other. So its not like a straight line, cause they never will bend that way. Over 87" a 2.2 degree incline would garner about 3.340" of vertical distance. But that's not how they bend. I'll say I'm not the master of bending axles and haven't been through a shitload of them to know, but the spindles are a weak point, and the tubes. This could be anywhere in that area. Not to mention already having two trusses on it etc. That all warps axle tubes. I'm also just slapping an inclinometer on shit. It's about as accurate as a red ryder BB gun.

My angle measurements now are different than whats in my notebook from when I built it this last time, but only by a degree. Passenger side is different. But I don't think this is the cause. Axles go in and out like butter etc....

For some Lulz: @Fastereddie I just checked my Duramax AAM. 1.9 degrees camber difference. Tubes are .7 degree


Took some measurements with my indicator. Crosspin is .008" bent, chucking one end in a collet on the lathe. In the carrier the crosspin can be forced up and down .008" (with gear oil still in there and just using my fingers, so under load probably way more). We're at .016 of movement with no real load other than my finger force.

I'm reluctant to say the .008 play of the crosspin in the carrier is from enlargement of the bore. Any tighter and they'd actually have to deburr by hand the crosspin screw holes, which they did not do.

332272-fa244822c5356f04e8c42ce1c26ec3d0.jpg


332273-cb181eec183f27cc64bb45726dc75b86.jpg


Axle shaft measurements: Inside of flange (with gasket) to end, Drivers: 33" Pass: 38.645" ish. A smidge over 38 5/8". Based on chamfer dimensions I'm saying the axle shaft lost .010 from rubbing.

Probably going to chalk this up to tolerance stacking from wear and the crosspin tweak. I'm still curious about that specific axle though.... Let me know what you guys think.
 
Haha, I know how ya feel! Well if the shafts slide in and out easy it must be in good alignment. Send it! No?
 
Tnsejed said:
I'm definitely in a send it mode, with new collar, locking gear, crosspin, and new axle shafts. But should I stick Mark Williams shafts in it.....
Click to expand...
Do you use the metal shim gaskets on the axle shaft or just rtv?
 
Tnsejed said:
I'm definitely in a send it mode, with new collar, locking gear, crosspin, and new axle shafts. But should I stick Mark Williams shafts in it.....
Click to expand...
Does Williams make shafts for that? I tried to get them to make em some 20 years ago and got a big NO. And I had a connection
:popcorn:
 
Bent77 said:
Does Williams make shafts for that? I tried to get them to make em some 20 years ago and got a big NO. And I had a connection
:popcorn:
Click to expand...

Yup. Double splined with bling outer caps (30 or 35 carrier spline with 40 spline outers). No gaskets needed with the integral o-rings. 4340 or 300m. Solid not gun drilled, HT done in-house (which for me is a big selling point, As I too am a HT in-house shop and know what that takes and the benefits you can get from process control). 2 week lead time.

I've got no connection, but I'm very handsome, and they offer it on website. :haha:
 
For S&G i pulled the hubs off. They're good to go. Look immaculate.

New locker is coming. Once you need the spider gear which the locking collar goes over its a major cost increase.
 
Tnsejed said:
There's the locking problem. Shitloads of wear on the sliding collar. All those years will take a toll...

332265-1e28c4e5dd4f1c594dfe752f1cd2d6c7.jpg

332263-ab115f58a8ff6d5a0307c18fed10099b.jpg

332264-a18310001ba1ccf385a61e98a8d4d25a.jpg


But what's up with the axle shaft? It came out and the axle shafts and housing were cleaned and inspected before last season. Something happened there since that time. Splines have maybe .002 of twist. I'd run 'em if I had an answer for this. Crosspin has super minimal rubbing from this axle. The axle end itself has quite a burr from this. Torsional bending in the plastic region causing elongation of the shaft? The magnet looks like a metallic marvel. Or bent crosspin? Going to dig further.....

332266-ded56f68876b5cb34ae9397bc313ebfc.jpg
Click to expand...
I know everytime I talk about this people seem to think it's insignificant but reality is a single u joint on a steering axle is not sustainable, it doesn't matter how bigger strong the parts are, if you turn and hit the gas you are twisting the ears on the shafts and at the same time with lockers, on rocks, you are putting a rotational stress on the shafts, you know because of the difference in distance travelled between sides.
I believe it is worth putting a cv shaft on the front and for the torsional stress maybe softer tires compound that is weaker than the shafts.
 
imiceman44 said:
I know everytime I talk about this people seem to think it's insignificant but reality is a single u joint on a steering axle is not sustainable, it doesn't matter how bigger strong the parts are, if you turn and hit the gas you are twisting the ears on the shafts and at the same time with lockers, on rocks, you are putting a rotational stress on the shafts, you know because of the difference in distance travelled between sides.
I believe it is worth putting a cv shaft on the front and for the torsional stress maybe softer tires compound that is weaker than the shafts.
Click to expand...

This is on the rear, but you are right in that it is not an insignificant amount of force. The force gets much much worse though when moving through terrain. Tire contact pressure differences due to hitting obstacles etc.. Idiots with 42's bashing rocks.
With that said, talking about the front, my CTM's have held up great.

The locking collar issue is definitely due to a combination of things. First is just standard wear, second is me activating and deactivating them under movement on the trails is my guess. Activating them in a manner when the tires are not moving at the same rate, at more than a tiny crawl, will cause undue wear. But screw that, I'm gonna keep on doing it and hope to get another 7 years out of the new one. It doesn't owe me a thing and this ARB rocked it out.
 
Yes, but he’s not going to cv the rear axle. In theory he’s unlocking it when turning and not in use

Pretty sure it rolled the edge over due to locking it hot
 
I've wondered about locking the ARB while moving. I tend to do it when stopped because I wasn't sure it was a good idea.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom