I suppose I should try that first. It's probably just plugged with dirt.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
We ran the truck up the RTI ramp today to test things out.
Didn't max it out but the wife doesn't like the RTI ramp. It took her about 30 minutes to work her nerve up to get that far an inch at a time... LOL! I exaggerate a little. I would also like to get bump stops in before I push the suspension much further.
For comparison, this is what it looked like the day we drove it "home".
Here we are today.
I have a little more work to do with the steering. I should have known while it was still in the shop from looking at the clearance between the tie-rod end on the pitman arm and the tie-rod I was going to have trouble. It wasn't until we started up the RTI ramp that I realized the issue.
This is all the further we could make it up the ramp. Pretty disappointing.
I guess I'm back to looking at either swapping the pitman arm or moving the entire box forward. I guess another option would be to move the axle back but I really like where it's setting now.
Seems like moving the box forward would be a lot of work but I have a feeling it might be the best option?
Didn't max it out but the wife doesn't like the RTI ramp. It took her about 30 minutes to work her nerve up to get that far an inch at a time... LOL! I exaggerate a little. I would also like to get bump stops in before I push the suspension much further.
For comparison, this is what it looked like the day we drove it "home".
Here we are today.
I have a little more work to do with the steering. I should have known while it was still in the shop from looking at the clearance between the tie-rod end on the pitman arm and the tie-rod I was going to have trouble. It wasn't until we started up the RTI ramp that I realized the issue.
This is all the further we could make it up the ramp. Pretty disappointing.
I guess I'm back to looking at either swapping the pitman arm or moving the entire box forward. I guess another option would be to move the axle back but I really like where it's setting now.
Seems like moving the box forward would be a lot of work but I have a feeling it might be the best option?
Scott I moved the box forward on one of my old blazers. its a ridiculous amount of work and best done with the fender completely removed.
The biggest problem is running into radiator. I moved my up and forward because just moving it forward would have put it too low. Although I moved it quite a ways and it looks like you might be able to just go an inch or so.
The biggest problem is running into radiator. I moved my up and forward because just moving it forward would have put it too low. Although I moved it quite a ways and it looks like you might be able to just go an inch or so.
So your wife can drive the manual? That's handy.
Martin
Martin
I'm wondering if I should just switch to ORD's 1.5" drop pitman. I'm going to have to stare at it a bit. I actually found some pictures you posted of your setup.
We bought a new TDI Jetta for her to drive last year and it's a 6spd manual.
What part # is your bleeder? I've been looking at getting one for awhile now - just not sure which one is correct for my 1973's rectangular master.
Truck looks great!
Oh, it shouldn't be a big deal, but it seems like too many women are not even willing to learn.
Martin
I already had the bottle so I just needed the adapter. This would be the correct kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0115/overview/ Unfortunately it's just about the most expensive one.
Mine was hitting more than yours, I am guessing my axle was about 3/4 of an inch further forward then yours.
I honestly don't remember how far forward it really was.
It was worth the effort though. That truck had 40s too much lift and a way soft suspension, went down the road good. Articulated like crazy and steering good everywhere I went ( except for the lack of hydro assist). I never had to worry about my steering and despite the fact my springs were 60" long in the front, I had as good of an approach angle as my 56"s that are in Horton now. Mainly because of the offset of the spring pin.
I really liked those springs in that truck.
I honestly don't remember how far forward it really was.
It was worth the effort though. That truck had 40s too much lift and a way soft suspension, went down the road good. Articulated like crazy and steering good everywhere I went ( except for the lack of hydro assist). I never had to worry about my steering and despite the fact my springs were 60" long in the front, I had as good of an approach angle as my 56"s that are in Horton now. Mainly because of the offset of the spring pin.
I really liked those springs in that truck.
I have a friend's truck I take care of and it has the same steering with the axle moved 1" forward. Looking at his I'm guessing mine is 1.25" to 1.5" forward.
It really looks like moving the steering box is what I need to do. The only other thought I've had is to drill out the steering arm, get an adapter for the TRE taper so I can mount the TRE on top of the pitman arm.
I need to figure out how to go about moving the box. I'll feel better about if I have a plan.
It really looks like moving the steering box is what I need to do. The only other thought I've had is to drill out the steering arm, get an adapter for the TRE taper so I can mount the TRE on top of the pitman arm.
I need to figure out how to go about moving the box. I'll feel better about if I have a plan.
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
Are you going to rock crawl this or DD it? Putting the tie rod in the stock location would seem like a good idea. Seems like reverse high steer would be a handy option too. Unless I missed something here. 
Or you could put some bends in the tie rod similar (or different) to what ORD does with their drag links, just on both ends. Oh man... the work that is involved with changing a steering box location just does not seem worth it to me.
How big is the diameter on the tie rod anyways? It looks monstrous.
Or you could put some bends in the tie rod similar (or different) to what ORD does with their drag links, just on both ends. Oh man... the work that is involved with changing a steering box location just does not seem worth it to me.
How big is the diameter on the tie rod anyways? It looks monstrous.
I have thought about stock location but I already have the ram setup for high steer. I'd have to get a new one as it would be to short.
I had behind the axle tie rod on the K5 and it won't clear the arch on the springs.
I do agree it seems like a lot of work. This truck will see trail time. Not quite the kind of stuff I did with the K5 but some difficult trails around Colorado & Moab.
The tie-rod is 1.5" by 1/4" wall tube I had left from another project. Welded threaded tube adapters onto it.
I had behind the axle tie rod on the K5 and it won't clear the arch on the springs.
I do agree it seems like a lot of work. This truck will see trail time. Not quite the kind of stuff I did with the K5 but some difficult trails around Colorado & Moab.
The tie-rod is 1.5" by 1/4" wall tube I had left from another project. Welded threaded tube adapters onto it.
I'm irritated that after all the test fitting I did before hanging out under the truck I still missed this clearance issue. 
CUCV2
5/4 ton fun
I had a similar issue with my off-road rig after pushing the front axle forward about 3" ended up going with a custom heim joint steering set-up but I don't think that would help your set-up. I think the best way to fix this is by doing something different with that tie rod. Sucks to redo the hydro assist but is still way better than redoing the steering box. Here's a pic of my steering on the off-road rig just to generated some ideas maybe.
The biggest issue with moving it Scott is the radiator clearance. I moved my box up you can see it in this pic
I moved the box up and forward that drop pitman arm is the superlift one that everyone uses part #1104 I think? 4" drop arm for a bronco.
It looks like you could go about an inch and have gobs of clearance. My box was butted up against the body mount. Could not have gotten it more forward without moving the body mount. You can also see where I cut the frame for pitman arm clearance
I moved the box up and forward that drop pitman arm is the superlift one that everyone uses part #1104 I think? 4" drop arm for a bronco.
It looks like you could go about an inch and have gobs of clearance. My box was butted up against the body mount. Could not have gotten it more forward without moving the body mount. You can also see where I cut the frame for pitman arm clearance
Thanks for the pictures; they are handy for thinking things over. I can see where heim joints could help me gain some clearance without changing anything else. But I've never been sure how good they are on a street rig. I did have them on the tie-rod on my K5 but it was trailered a lot.
I believe it is the Superlift arm. I got it seven years ago with a NWF crossover kit.
If I move the box I'd like to move it 2" and I could ditch the offset TRE. I think there's room for that if I nestle the box into the B-52 bracket. Although it occurs to me I need room for the 90° fitting that feeds the ram.
Eric, did you move yours up in addition to forward so the angle of the draglink was right?
I was looking at the truck more this morning and it seems like flipping the TRE around so it's on top of the pitman arm might yield the results I need. There is room to clear the frame. I have a draglink with more drop.
The end of the pitman arm would clear the tie-rod; I used a straightedge to check.
The only thing unknown is if the castle nut would hit. I'm thinking that I might cure with grinding and attempt to get the nut to a final position with a flat side parallel to the tie-rod.
I thought about a couple things like that. The problem being that the clearances are so tight and when they hit they tend to break stuff. Like steering box bolts, and steering boxes, and frames. You know just those trivial things you don't really use much
yah mine got moved up and forward, I really don't remember how far but the top of the frame is basically stock and everything but the cutout on the lower part of the frame is in the stock place plus the body mount is in the stock location. I pretty much put it up on the frame after we got done boxing it in. When everything lines up all good to go I clamped it in and marked holes.
Frame was boxed in then i drilled through the frame to allow a sleeve then welded the sleeve in, the sleeves were ground flush on the back side to allow for as much surface area for a bolt. I drilled and tapped my box to the next bigger size bolt, I also used nuts on the back side of those bolts.
In this pic you can see I took out the crossmember that the brake thingy bolts too. I did put a brace back in there but way smaller and more out of the way. Might give you a better idea of where it is all at. Remember the top of the frame is pretty much stock. I plated it with 3/16 on top
yah mine got moved up and forward, I really don't remember how far but the top of the frame is basically stock and everything but the cutout on the lower part of the frame is in the stock place plus the body mount is in the stock location. I pretty much put it up on the frame after we got done boxing it in. When everything lines up all good to go I clamped it in and marked holes.
Frame was boxed in then i drilled through the frame to allow a sleeve then welded the sleeve in, the sleeves were ground flush on the back side to allow for as much surface area for a bolt. I drilled and tapped my box to the next bigger size bolt, I also used nuts on the back side of those bolts.
In this pic you can see I took out the crossmember that the brake thingy bolts too. I did put a brace back in there but way smaller and more out of the way. Might give you a better idea of where it is all at. Remember the top of the frame is pretty much stock. I plated it with 3/16 on top
I was thinking I could cut some 1/4" or 3/8" thick pieces of steel to weld to the frame in the 4 places where the steering box mounting holes will be and drill through for mounting bolts. Those pieces of steel would act like the embossed areas of the factory frame. Seems like that would be simple, but I suppose I'm not doing anything to really improve the strength of the frame there.
I have plated the back of the frame with something thicker and then just drilled the stock holes through it.
Problem with that is if it ever gets loose then it can easily wallow out the hole. Not really likely but it could happen.
I had so many issues with the steering box I wanted to literally never even think about it ever ever again.
And I didn't
Problem with that is if it ever gets loose then it can easily wallow out the hole. Not really likely but it could happen.
I had so many issues with the steering box I wanted to literally never even think about it ever ever again.
And I didn't
