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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
If it's not too late make the middle seat pin in or make a seperate frame thing for it so you can remove it and install a cooler or something like that in it's place.

My next rig will have quick pins for all the seats, pull 4 pins and remove seat, 2 minutes or less.
 
That's a good idea; I was discussing something similar with Nicole. It definitely needs to be pins because wrenching in between there is a pain in the arse. Another thing I don't like about that old seat is the mounting flat is horizontal under the seat instead of vertical tabs. I was thinking it would work if could set it up with studs/pins that either stay on the seat or on the frame.

We're also thinking about doing a little raised platform at the front of the bed for a cooler to ride on so the boys could get drinks out of it through the sliding rear window (that's not installed yet). We'd like to do one of those DC powered coolers to help keep it cool.
 
Replaced the fuel pump in the one operating fuel tank. Thanks to the advice from some members here.

I test drove the truck and it ran great. Drove it to the shop and parked it. Drove it around town a couple more times and it ran crappy. I filled it up with gas and drove it around a lot and it ran great again. Then driving it back to the shop it started running crappy again. Noticed the tank was down to 1/4 full so I thought I would try filling it up and sure enough it started running good again.

After posting up about it in the FI section, I got some advice that the little rubber line out of pump was probably cracked. I think this picture explains it best:

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That little hose connects the pump to the fuel sender. Here's the sender assembly with the pump removed:

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And the new pump:

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The odd thing is the tank has been dropped before. I know this because they did the usual previous owner (PO) craptastic work and only reinstalled 5 of the original bracket bolts, they didn't re-install the plastic tank cover/skid, and they put a butt splice connector in the ground wire from the sender. I don't know what work was performed. If they replaced the pump, I don't think they replaced that hose. Or the work was done a long time ago I guess. The part number on the pump I removed seems to cross to an AC Delco replacement pump.

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I went with Bosch because I found some complaints that AC Delco pumps seem to be going downhill. The Advance Auto website had a lot of negative reviews for the Delco pump. The Bosch pump had good reviews and a lifetime guarantee.

I also took the advice of sweetK30 when I mentioned I have a forklift. This made the whole process a lot easier. :D

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Didn't have to worry about leaving 1/4 tank of fuel in there.

Also replace the inline filter while I was at it.
 
Finished up the front seats as well.

I had actually started on the seats several months ago, but they needed a few final changes. I know that's an odd starting point, but to be honest the interior had a bit of a funk. I had no interest in driving the truck around in the funky (as in body funk) stock bench seats.

I stripped out the bench seats, rubber floor mats, and insulation. There was nothing really terrible except along the passenger side, dirt had caked in along with sunflower seed shells to create a 1/2" crust of dirt I had to chip out with a screw driver.

I built a frame with 1" square tube welded to the factory bench seat mounts/brackets.

Now I must confess, I was obviously out of practice with fabricating and I made a few errors building the frame. Keeping in mind this was the first fab project I did on the crew cab. I hadn't had to fabricate anything major on the General in a couple of years.

The first mistake I made was to make the frame too narrow front to back to fit the factory seat seat mounts. You'll notice in the picture the little pieces of angle iron at the front; those were used to make up the difference. I also used them to put some recline on the seats (which gets changed later).

I have sliders for the suspension seats and I mounted those to the frame.

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The sliders have factory installed bolts for mounting to the frame I built and they couldn't be easily replaced. They aren't long enough to extend through the 1" tube. So I drilled larger holes on the bottom to allow access for a socket.

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I also feel it makes a cleaner look.

You can see the brackets to bolt the seats to the sliders are nice and tight to the frame:

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Here it is bolted in the cab:

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This is when I discovered my second fabrication error. I measured the width of the mounting tabs on the seats to get my spacing for the seat frame I fabricated. However I failed to realize the obvious, that the mounting bolts for the sliders are going to be narrower than the tabs on the seats. The difference was 1". I added a second runner for each seat that was 1" closer to the outside of the frame. I left the original, incorrectly located, pieces because I may find use for them in mounting other things to the frame.

Once I bolted the seat to the slider it turned out the brackets are too tight to the frame. The problem is that the mounting tabs on the seats stick down past the brackets and hit the frame.

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The brackets can be flipped over to raise the seat up.

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The problem was this raised the seat too high and my legs were in the steering wheel. I ended up adding a 1/4" thick strap under the sliders to raise them up enough to clear.

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I like this best because I think the overall install is cleaner with the brackets flipped down to cover the sliders.

Here are both seats in the cab.

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I decided I wanted a driver seat with lower side supports to get in and out easier. The passenger seat is a Daily Driver version from PRP, but mine with the yellow piping is a competition high back. I was able to sell my seat and get a Beard seat like I wanted all for the same price.

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All I did yesterday was drop the front of the seats down 1" and move them forward on the frame 3". They had too much recline and they slid too far back almost hitting the new rear seats. Too much recline angle on the seat made it hard to run the clutch pedal.
 
Geeze! Forgot to subscribe way back at page 4! You have been BUSY Scott! Lookin' good, love that you admit mistakes in your build thread. Great write-ups, learning what I'm gonna run into when I do the 4X swap on my C30....
 
Thanks. I was looking through the thread for something the other day and thought the same thing!

And it's still not truly 4wd yet! :doah:
 
Long weekend so I had a second day to work on the truck. The power steering system the truck came with didn't function well, so I decided to get all of my components swapped over. Ended up being much more work than I anticipated. It was all the little things that took up time.

I wasn't able to completely finish, but I did get the truck drive-able.

I will say it is easier to get to the steering box bolts on the 2wd frame. The frame is also stamped differently from what I remember the frame on the K5 being.

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Instead of the mounting holes being embossed out, the area between the bolt holes is stamped in on this frame.

The more stuff I do on this truck, the more crap work I find. I just hope there wasn't much more work done on this truck, because it will have been done poorly.

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Found that little gem when I removed the steering box. I'm guessing at some point someone cut the pitman arm off. I'm glad I wasn't planning to use it.

The steering box brace, bolt-in type, for the 2wd trucks is much simpler also. This came from Offroad Design. I was impressed with the precision; when I had the mounting bolts torqued down this is how close the hole on the crossmember lined up with the brace:

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The bolt dropped right in. Completed install:

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I installed the PSC pump I was running in the General. Had to swap the pump mounted reservoir can because it wouldn't fit on the brackets in the '89. One of those "little" things that took longer than planned.

Another of those craptastic, past repair jobs on of the mounting brackets for the pump was missing. It bolts to the bottom of the pump to the engine block. Gonna have to see if I can source that from the junkyard.

Didn't get many more pics after that as the night drew on and I just wanted to get the truck driving again.

I ended the night by just vice clamping the reservoir in place.

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I should have planned ahead and had things set up I didn't need to get the truck out of the shop that night.

Still need to mount and plumb in the cooler. Also the mounting bracket for the reservoir. Oh, and of course the steering ram. :doah:
 
Yay, new windshield!

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Also had them install a rear sliding window I pulled from the pick-n-pull.

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Yeah. I've loved bigfoot stories since I was a kid. My sister got that for me a couple a weeks ago when she visited Oregon.
 
glad the fork truck helped on the tank job.

and fyi you can thank me again for your seat idea.

I made my bench/bucket just like that over 6-7 years ago on my ugly plow truck . :whistle:

and both my buckets slide also and whole thing just as oem also .

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Hey Scott!
I just took a few minutes to glance over your build thread. Looks cool man, I've always liked the long trucks like that ;)

Did you ever get your rear shock mounts figured out? I've built mounts before for the bottom of coilovers (very much the same as your DT's) that allowed the bolt to be perpendicular to the axle tube for massive articulation that still protected everything and didn't hang way down. I could pretty easily build you something for your shocks if you wanted.

I still need to swing by your place and meet you in person one of these days. Is your rig at your shop? I'd like to take a look at it too :)

-Darren
 
I think I have the rear shock mounts figured out. It was partly a malfunction between the ears, well that may have been most of the problem really. :doah: I haven't fab'd them yet. Just enjoying the rough-ass, bouncy ride for now. :haha: If my plan doesn't work out I'll hit you up for some help.

It is here most of the time. If it's not here, then I'm probably not either. Although I think the wife is going to take it home early tomorrow so we can get loaded up to go camping for the weekend. Taking it up for the first trip in the mountains.
 
I know Martin is going to be disappointed, but this weekend I pulled the 465 and installed the 700 from the General. After driving the truck with my axles and the 465 for a couple of months, I decided the combo is just not right. If I was going to keep the 465, I'd need to re-gear the axles to 4.56. I did the 5.13 gears because of having the OD.

My brother-in-law helped me bolt the trans and tcase in. Luckily my father-in-law has one of these:

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Made the job super easy and we could keep the trans & tcase bolted together. It was pretty straight forward and even with the tcase half-clocked, I have just enough floor clearance. From what I understand, if this had been an automatic trans in the 2wd the tunnel wouldn't have been as accommodating.

I fabricated a new crossmember but I was able to utilize existing holes in the frame.

Started out with 3/16" plate to make brackets notched out for the round tube.

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I used a hole saw to cut radius holes in a piece of 6" channel to serve as the mounting platform from the trans mount.

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Here it is finished up and bolted in the truck.

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I didn't paint it yet. Some point in the near future I'm going to make a skid plate so I need to weld mounting tabs to the crossmember. I'll support the other end of the skid plate with a second crossmember.

I still have a list of things to finish up the project.
  • Rear driveshaft shortened with 1410 yoke added
  • exhaust
  • tcase shifter
  • longer speedometer cable
  • skid plate
 
What did you do with the hydraulic clutch setup?

Martin

I think my buddy wants me to put it in his truck. He has a 79 K3500 that I take care of for him while he's working as a foreign service officer. It's got a 465/205.

Otherwise I won't get rid of it without dropping you a note first.
 
I'm running 5.13s, 465 and 38s.... I like the combo!

Yeah but I want to drive long distances at 70mph+. It would be good if this was a trailered rig. "Granny-low" & 5.13 is a killer low range. I drove my dad's 87 K5 with 465/208 and 4.88 in the axles on 37's at Blazer Bash in '08 and it was much easier to drive than I expected. At least it was until the steering box started to part ways with the frame. :doah:
 
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