CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Reminds me of something I saw a few years back.
His are actually mounted forward of the stock placement. They do overlap the glass but there are no attaching points above the door skin / belt moulding.
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Yeah, I thought the same about being tighter to the body. The other mirrors sucked for towing anyway. I need to get one of those mirrors that attach to the end of the regular mirrors.
They do have a rod that I assume ties to bottom bolt across to the inner skin of the door like the original mirrors did. @nvrenuf included those but I haven't put them in. Wanted to make sure I really wanted to keep them before I put that much effort into it. I can see where they would help because they do vibrate a little. Not enough to bother me tho. I'm really curious how they'll hold up to some tree impacts.
Do you think the stock mounting point is in between the top to original holes? I really wanted to use at least one of the original holes and I felt like the forward most top hole worked fine so I didn't try the rear most top hole.
Also a note about not using the powered function of these mirrors. I was afraid it would make them hard to move but actually they move quite smoothly. They're still stiff enough they're not going to move around either.
Ultimately I need to figure out something to do with the bottom stud for the original mirror mount. I kinda hate to cut it off so that I couldn't use it if I decided to go back to the original type mirrors. I need to think of something creative to bolt on there or something.
So this is my next approach to the cooling system.
The big one is the Lincoln Mark VIII fan. It's about 18.5" diameter. The other fan is a 16" Volvo fan. Both are 2 speed. I hacked up the factory plastic shroud of the Lincoln fan to make a mounting flange of sorts. The Volvo fan comes factory as a bolt-in with a flange but I had to trim some of the flange off. You can see it also overhangs the shroud about 1". I think this is about as big as I can go with electric fans.
I will get the relays wired up and it should be ready to drop in when I have some free time.
I was really leaning towards the factory mechanical fan, but I would need to buy more stuff than I need to upsize the electric fans. I only needed the Lincoln fan which can be found pretty cheap. If these don't work, I'll be looking at doing the mechanical fan.
The big one is the Lincoln Mark VIII fan. It's about 18.5" diameter. The other fan is a 16" Volvo fan. Both are 2 speed. I hacked up the factory plastic shroud of the Lincoln fan to make a mounting flange of sorts. The Volvo fan comes factory as a bolt-in with a flange but I had to trim some of the flange off. You can see it also overhangs the shroud about 1". I think this is about as big as I can go with electric fans.
I will get the relays wired up and it should be ready to drop in when I have some free time.
I was really leaning towards the factory mechanical fan, but I would need to buy more stuff than I need to upsize the electric fans. I only needed the Lincoln fan which can be found pretty cheap. If these don't work, I'll be looking at doing the mechanical fan.
Go to a steel recycling place.Imagine how much heavier it would have been!
You get paid for weighing the truck
See, and everyone laughed at me at my first BB for having newer elephant mirrors. Their nice huh Scott. Smack them on anything, so what, fold them back out.
and yeah, maybe I didn't have a CB my first year, but the mirrors were more important at the time
and yeah, maybe I didn't have a CB my first year, but the mirrors were more important at the time
I was just looking around the yard for some scrap to haul. Unfortunately we just cleaned everything out a couple weeks ago. I might have to wait a couple more weeks to get another pile going.
I would think about trying to get a set like yours on the truck but I'd have to find them at the junkyard; they're pricey new. Plus I think they are probably easier to mount on tube doors than factory doors.See, and everyone laughed at me at my first BB for having newer elephant mirrors. Their nice huh Scott. Smack them on anything, so what, fold them back out.
and yeah, maybe I didn't have a CB my first year, but the mirrors were more important at the time
I'd love to mount a pair on my full doors, but yeah, you'll end up giving up the wing window for a piece of steel. Plus my truck hasn't seen those doors in years lol
I think I got mine from Ebay for $90, aftermarket but new. Excellent quality. Can't find the seller though, too long ago to come up in the history.
I think I got mine from Ebay for $90, aftermarket but new. Excellent quality. Can't find the seller though, too long ago to come up in the history.
I should look harder because I do need one for the company truck.
Interesting thing is the driver wing window doesn't really work anyway because it was missing when we got it and I just slapped a piece of clear acrylic in there. I often forget about doing that. I just worry that moving it too much will break the acrylic.
Interesting thing is the driver wing window doesn't really work anyway because it was missing when we got it and I just slapped a piece of clear acrylic in there. I often forget about doing that. I just worry that moving it too much will break the acrylic.
My ford has dodge tow mirrors mounted to acrylic wing windows with some additional braces inside. I need to redo it and do either the newer chevy mirrors or something different. I'd love to put some newer style mirrors on my K5.
I'm trying to be a good little gearhead and solder my wires together, but it's making me want to hulk-out and throw shit. 
Use a torch
If your soldering iron isn't heating fast enough, or hot enough, you will be frustrated as fork!!I'm trying to be a good little gearhead and solder my wires together, but it's making me want to hulk-out and throw shit.
But I can tell you that after doing repairs to the electrical on mixer trucks, I don't feel the need to solder every connection on my personal stuff. At work, I have seen so many wires fail from vibration, and quite often just 1/2" from a connection or farther. The connector held, but not the insulation and wire. Now I will concede that the water, cement, and acid cleaning don't help...
So I look at what circuit and where the wires run, then decide.
Little late to the mirror debate but I get all mine off of 1A auto. Had a set on my 2500HD for 5 of the years I owned it and have a set on my ‘92 Right now. Good quality and prices
I thought about that, but I'm thrilled about learning a new technique.
These are 10ga wires and I was trying to use the pencil iron with the pointy tip. After posting I did some searching and found I should at least be using a wedge tip - which I don't have. I went ahead and bought a Weller soldering gun that does 100W/140W. I also bought some .060" solder because I was trying to use .030" which I was thinking didn't help on the big wire.
I do think I was trying to use the iron too cold. I was in a hurry thinking I could solder the wires quick on my little break away from the computer. Problem was I had to hold the iron on the wires so long I was getting the entire length hot and softening the insulation. Then I think because the iron was too small I was only getting good solder on one side. When I tried to do the other side the solder started to release. My clamping device is broken so I was trying to do this all without holding my work securely.
So it was really all my fault but still frustrating.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Moving from a plug in pencil iron to a temperature controlled weller iron is like going from a small block Chevy to an LS. Night and day difference.
