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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
in my old build STUBBY i did the bob mod for a 4ft bed behind the cab and flipped the 56" springs end for end to get the hangers 4" further under the cab and rear hangers shorter off the end of the frame . i would up at 133" wb and looked good for cab clearance on 38" tires . lots of pics if you need ideas for yours or wana see one cut before you do yours .
 
I've been wanting to build a bed for quite a while now. Originally I was going to keep the wheel base the same so I had more bed space, but now that I have the C10 I don't need the bed in the crew cab as much. The saddle tanks have gotten so beat up I have no idea how much fuel I have in them except for right after I fill them. After the Steel Bender exit last year, I can only use about 13 gallons of the driver side tank. Plus after bending up the slider on the driver side, I've really been wanting to be able to brace those up better but the saddle tanks are in the way.

I am concerned about the bracing you mentioned; good to hear confirmation I need to follow thru with my concerns. One of the things I was looking at yesterday is using the factory cross brace that runs between the front hangers. You can actually see it sitting on top of the frame in front of the tank in my picture with the notes. I wanted to make sure it didn't force the fuel tank back too far. The only catch is the frame is actually 1/2" taller where I'm moving the front hangers to. If you look closely where the hanger is now, you can see the frame bumps up ahead of the hanger. In order to use the factory brace, I will need to add a 1/2" spacer either at the bottom or the top. So I might have to fab something. I'm also planning to use that brace to help with the fuel tank mounting straps.
Funny you mention that cross brace by the front hangers. On Larry's short box the factory brace was just behind the front hangers. He added a second brace he harvested from another 1/2 ton frame and added it in right in line with the front hangers.

He also added a 1/4" plate to the outside of the frame that extended ahead and behind the hanger. On the inside he had cut apart another frame and sectioned the "c" to fit inside his frame and bolted the inner and outer braces to the frame. It's a frame repair directly out of the book from International truck.

There is more than one way to get it done but that's what he did.
 
The biggest issue I'm seeing with that tank location is clearance for the rear axle. Once you push it forward, the housing is going to be getting intimate with your new fuel tank location.

Adding a link setup as shown above makes even more things in the way. This is why the S-10 tank is behind the axle.
 
Wow. Major changes. Should be a new learning curve driving off road.

Only suggestion I could add is to reinforce the frame behind the cab where your front spring hanger is going to land. That's exactly where Larry's frame cracked last year. Between the wheeling and towing that area is going to be stressed to the max. (It is on any truck for that matter) On a spaghetti frame squarebody it's best to beef it up now while you move stuff around so you can incorporate the added structure into your mounts.

While I will always agree to add more reinforcement (and nobody take this as me saying don't reinforce more) but I thought it was worth mentioning that there is a pretty big difference in frame strength/thickness between a K10 shortbed and a K30 longbed. K10 truck frames are notorious for flexing even more than their counterpart K5 frames. But the overall size of the frame in the location of where his front spring hangers will land after he moves them is really thick and LOTS stronger than on a K10 short bed right behind the cab. Added to, if he does do some sort of tube fabricated bed in the rear and is attached at multiple spots, than I bet he wont' have a problem whatsoever. Again, adding more reinforcement is never a bad idea though, IMO.

Just my $0.02, and from my experience since he's seems to be going the exact route I did for my wheelbase shortening on my green K30
 
While I will always agree to add more reinforcement (and nobody take this as me saying don't reinforce more) but I thought it was worth mentioning that there is a pretty big difference in frame strength/thickness between a K10 shortbed and a K30 longbed. K10 truck frames are notorious for flexing even more than their counterpart K5 frames. But the overall size of the frame in the location of where his front spring hangers will land after he moves them is really thick and LOTS stronger than on a K10 short bed right behind the cab. Added to, if he does do some sort of tube fabricated bed in the rear and is attached at multiple spots, than I bet he wont' have a problem whatsoever. Again, adding more reinforcement is never a bad idea though, IMO.

Just my $0.02, and from my experience since he's seems to be going the exact route I did for my wheelbase shortening on my green K30
That is a key difference in the section height and thickness of the frames for sure. There were countless discussions on that subject, up to finding a K30 frame and swapping it under his truck after it was shortened to the proper length. That idea was squashed due to the fact it would require a complete teardown to the frame to facilitate the swap. While the K30 frame would have been an improvement since it still would have been cut and spliced in the same exact space his broke we'd still have to make the same type of repair. So he went on the beefy side adding inner and outer supports with the added crossmember.

Since the intended plans for @mrk5 's K30 are not going to be cut in that zone and spliced I'd bet a single plate on the inside of the frame backing up the new location of the spring hanger wouldn't hurt.
 
in my old build STUBBY i did the bob mod for a 4ft bed behind the cab and flipped the 56" springs end for end to get the hangers 4" further under the cab and rear hangers shorter off the end of the frame . i would up at 133" wb and looked good for cab clearance on 38" tires . lots of pics if you need ideas for yours or wana see one cut before you do yours .
I'll have to think about the idea of running the 56" springs backwards. :thinking: That's actually how I ran them in my K5 to push the axle back. My end goal isn't to really shorten the wheel base but the truck as a whole. What really got me motivated on this is realizing I could make the overall length the same as my C10 which means it will easily fit in the garage so I can work on it at home instead of always having to come down to the company shop. I don't need to be at work every day of the week.

I wouldn't move the hangers any further under the cab tho. My aim is for a 5.5ft bed. My rationale is that I already was losing 40" of bed space for the spare tire so if I put the tank in the bed, I will just mount the spare tire above it and I'm not losing any additional space. Then I want about 24" of actual open space to haul things like coolers and BBQ grills or sand weight in the winter. With the tool box and spare tire in the 8' bed, I was only using about 2' of space as it was.


Funny you mention that cross brace by the front hangers. On Larry's short box the factory brace was just behind the front hangers. He added a second brace he harvested from another 1/2 ton frame and added it in right in line with the front hangers.

He also added a 1/4" plate to the outside of the frame that extended ahead and behind the hanger. On the inside he had cut apart another frame and sectioned the "c" to fit inside his frame and bolted the inner and outer braces to the frame. It's a frame repair directly out of the book from International truck.

There is more than one way to get it done but that's what he did.
On mine the brace/crossmember is right in line with the hangers. The bottom brackets of the crossmember share bolts with the spring hangers on the bottom of the frame. DIY4x used pieces of metal to tie the nuts together on the back side so it does have a little extra bracing in that regard too.

I had thought some about skipping the cross brace so I'm glad you brought it up and I'm definitely going to include it. I'm also thinking I will beef it up a little.

I can't even afford to buy new leaf springs let alone coil over shocks. I'm thinking once I have everything all settled out, I may do custom ORD leafs. I knew a guy that was going to help me build a cool trailing arm set up, but I waited too long and he moved away. :(

I'm trying to do this on a budget. Really the most expensive thing is probably going to be the driveshaft work. At least it always seems like it costs me a fortune every time it needs re-tubed.


You are keeping bedsides, right?

Martin
Yes, it's going to have bed sides. The design I have in mind is similar to the M101 military trailers.

M101-Trailer-3.jpg

The biggest issue I'm seeing with that tank location is clearance for the rear axle. Once you push it forward, the housing is going to be getting intimate with your new fuel tank location.

Adding a link setup as shown above makes even more things in the way. This is why the S-10 tank is behind the axle.
I had toyed with moving the tank down further so I took some measurements to see if I could. I have 5" of clearance from the top of the truss to the bottom of the frame. I decided I'm going to raise the tank UP about 1.5" off the bottom of the frame which will account for the loss of clearance when I have weight back on the rear springs. This truck is way taller than I ever planned, but I guess running about 7" of lift does have some advantages.

Plus I could take the truss off. It's just the remnants of an old DIY4x anti-wrap set up I had on the K5. That would gain nearly 2" of additional clearance over the rear axle. I had left it on because it's not harming anything and might give some very small measure of benefit.


Is he going to change the thread title to "Bob the crew cab"?
Nope

Squatty Scotty?
Hard NOPE! No Cali lean here.

Bob the Bro Dozer.
If anything it would be the ANTI-Bro Dozer. I can tell you driving a big pickup that's taller than most of those guys, I have a lot of fun getting them all riled up. It just takes a little bit of accelerating from a stoplight and just kinda driving next to them like maybe I want to race. They think it's ON and start huffing and puffing black smoke all over the place blasting down the road with me hoping maybe there's a traffic cop sitting down the road. It makes me chuckle.
 
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I can't even afford to buy new leaf springs let alone coil over shocks. I'm thinking once I have everything all settled out, I may do custom ORD leafs. I knew a guy that was going to help me build a cool trailing arm set up, but I waited too long and he moved away. :(
So, it is all my fault?
 
I did think some about cutting down some factory bed sides, but I'm really most looking forward to getting to create something from scratch. It's been fun going over ideas in my head and on paper. It's also nice to be able to rub the bed on trees and stuff and not worry about it causing damage.

It's a real challenge coming up with a design that won't be heavier than the factory bed. They weigh a lot less than I thought. Most estimates I found on the interwebs is about 450 pounds. I would say judging from pulling mine, that's gotta be pretty close to accurate. It certainly wasn't any heavier than a 350 or 454 which I've also lifted with the forklift.

Funny about the wasted vs waisted; I saw someone do the exact same thing just in the last few days. It's pretty obvious in instances like that autocorrect took over. When my phone does that I'm like why are you replacing a correctly spelled word? Sometimes it even substitutes some obscure word and I wonder who even uses that word!
 
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