Hey, there's a new excuse! I can't do 4-link because it adds too much weight. 
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CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
That’s why I have Autocorrect off. It doesn’t speak truck, gun, or warehouse management.
few pics of beds i saved for when i was going to do my stubby crew cab . i realy liked the 2nd one on the trailer . it was for sale a few hr's from me and i almost went and purchased it .
I thought about building off an already made flatbed but people are real proud of any decent ones.
I want a little more length than like Moulding's rig.
I'm really liking @sweetk30 idea about flipping the springs around. Then I would be at 144" wheel base and have 4" improvement for the departure angle.
I want a little more length than like Moulding's rig.
I'm really liking @sweetk30 idea about flipping the springs around. Then I would be at 144" wheel base and have 4" improvement for the departure angle.
I do like the idea of truck box bedsides. Lots of storage space premade.
my super sealer trailer build in the TOW & TRAILER section i have utilized a few truck tool box's on it . and my pickup trailer builds get a toolbox up in front of the box .
i am always on the lookout for toolbox's cheep or free just for these reuse needs.
i am always on the lookout for toolbox's cheep or free just for these reuse needs.
I have a newer Holmes tow bed that was cut up that has some side boxes and some other truck side boxes if you decide you might need them.
I've been thinking about utilizing some small underbody tool boxes. Below is a rough sketch out of my thoughts with the blue boxes being the underbody tool boxes. But I know things will evolve as I go.
Step side bed for the WIN!
I saw this on pirate and thought of your truck. Just in case you need more inspiration.
Edit: Actually, it looks very similar to the rendering you already posted.
Edit: Actually, it looks very similar to the rendering you already posted.
Nice! I can't imagine my crewcab being that short. 
In regards to suspension.
In regards to suspension.
Working moving the suspension/axle forward. It's a lot of holes to drill. Also had a lot of rivets to remove; (2) bump stop brackets, (2) upper shock mounts, bracket for rear brake line, and the rivet on each side in the body mount bracket I'm using for the top front hole of the front hanger.
I painted the inside of the brackets before install. Gonna repaint the outside of the brackets in place.
I wanted to come up with a way to space the brackets correctly and I figured a 2x4 would be the about the best and easiest. Plus we have a bunch of crating lumber laying around.
Maybe it shouldn't be a surprise, but the spacing is 56" just like the spring length.
You might notice the bushing there is shot. It's the only one that's completely wasted, but it looks like I'll be replacing all of them. Maybe I should just try to come up with the money for new springs....
I painted the inside of the brackets before install. Gonna repaint the outside of the brackets in place.
I wanted to come up with a way to space the brackets correctly and I figured a 2x4 would be the about the best and easiest. Plus we have a bunch of crating lumber laying around.
Maybe it shouldn't be a surprise, but the spacing is 56" just like the spring length.
You might notice the bushing there is shot. It's the only one that's completely wasted, but it looks like I'll be replacing all of them. Maybe I should just try to come up with the money for new springs....
This is going to be so neat. The proportions on the 3+3 really favor the shorter bed.
David
David
Thinking more about my hanger spacing.
I'm going to end up going from 2.5" flip with 4.5" shackle to 4" flip with 6" shackle. This is to account for the 2-1/4" rise in the frame. I'm wondering if I need to consider a little different spacing, mostly due to the longer shackle. The tricky thing is I can't think of a good way to put about 500 pounds of weight on the rear suspension right now.
I'm going to end up going from 2.5" flip with 4.5" shackle to 4" flip with 6" shackle. This is to account for the 2-1/4" rise in the frame. I'm wondering if I need to consider a little different spacing, mostly due to the longer shackle. The tricky thing is I can't think of a good way to put about 500 pounds of weight on the rear suspension right now.
if you need shackles longer hit me up . i got some 5" and 6" DIY4X units . maybe do some parts swapping .
The 2x4 idea looks great! I never would have thought of that. Of course, I'm not rich so can't afford current lumber prices.Working moving the suspension/axle forward. It's a lot of holes to drill. Also had a lot of rivets to remove; (2) bump stop brackets, (2) upper shock mounts, bracket for rear brake line, and the rivet on each side in the body mount bracket I'm using for the top front hole of the front hanger.
View attachment 376769
View attachment 376768
I painted the inside of the brackets before install. Gonna repaint the outside of the brackets in place.
I wanted to come up with a way to space the brackets correctly and I figured a 2x4 would be the about the best and easiest. Plus we have a bunch of crating lumber laying around.
View attachment 376767
Maybe it shouldn't be a surprise, but the spacing is 56" just like the spring length.
You might notice the bushing there is shot. It's the only one that's completely wasted, but it looks like I'll be replacing all of them. Maybe I should just try to come up with the money for new springs....
Haha! I actually thought about that when I started cutting it down. But it has a bunch of staples in it.The 2x4 idea looks great! I never would have thought of that. Of course, I'm not rich so can't afford current lumber prices.
Scrap metal is up in price . . . Just sayin
I figured out a way to put 400 pounds on the rear suspension. The ammo boxes are each full of 120 pounds of sand; I use them for weight in the snow. The rest of the weight came from my youngest son who broke his arm on Friday doing a sack race at school.
I'm happy with the 4" flip and 6" shackle. The bed and gear will weigh more than my test above but I figure having the weight further out helped compensate. There's about an inch the rear can settle down further.
I installed the flip brackets on the opposite side from typical so that the short side is to the rear giving me a couple more inches I could cut off the frame.
Then it was time to cut some frame off. I had to include this one because it looks so dumb with the extra frame sticking out there.
Have to include this one as my son said it was his artistic picture with all the sky and dark rain clouds in the distance.
This isn't the final axle location. I need to flip the springs which will move the axle back 4". Personally I think that will look better.
I drilled 30 holes in the frame for the spring hangers and flip brackets. The burb tank is feeding the truck but It's still plumbed and wired thru the tank selector valve. I need to get that bypassed but I haven't decided I'm going to run the fuel lines; basically whether to keep the existing hard lines or replace them. Currently the hard lines end with factory crimped short pieces of rubber hose that's connected to the tank selector valve. If I'm going to use the hardlines, I'll probably have to cut the factory rubber off. Or add another fitting.
I'm happy with the 4" flip and 6" shackle. The bed and gear will weigh more than my test above but I figure having the weight further out helped compensate. There's about an inch the rear can settle down further.
I installed the flip brackets on the opposite side from typical so that the short side is to the rear giving me a couple more inches I could cut off the frame.
Then it was time to cut some frame off. I had to include this one because it looks so dumb with the extra frame sticking out there.
Have to include this one as my son said it was his artistic picture with all the sky and dark rain clouds in the distance.
This isn't the final axle location. I need to flip the springs which will move the axle back 4". Personally I think that will look better.
I drilled 30 holes in the frame for the spring hangers and flip brackets. The burb tank is feeding the truck but It's still plumbed and wired thru the tank selector valve. I need to get that bypassed but I haven't decided I'm going to run the fuel lines; basically whether to keep the existing hard lines or replace them. Currently the hard lines end with factory crimped short pieces of rubber hose that's connected to the tank selector valve. If I'm going to use the hardlines, I'll probably have to cut the factory rubber off. Or add another fitting.
