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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Yeah there's a fun science lesson in that, pertains to the loss of air speed and decreased volume due to not only bends in the line but also drag coefficient of the sidewall of the hose. Applies to exhaust systems as well.

If you wanna nerd it out, let me know
 
Today I made the first step to converting this thing to a 4wd. When I installed 52's in the front of the General, I fabbed my own body mount brackets with hangers. This time around I decided to get the B52 brackets from DIY4x.

Kurt warned me the holes wouldn't line up much on a 2wd truck. I was hoping it would be a little closer than it ended up being. I think I still saved a little time over fabricating my own brackets. Regardless, the brackets themselves are very nice.

First thing we did was pull the front bumper and the grill. This is what the factory brackets for the core support body mounts look like:

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For reference this is what factory 4wd brackets look like with the spring hanger.

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I unbolted the body mounts and used a couple of 2x4's to hold the core support up a little. I'm fortunate enough to a oxy-acetylene torch to use for cutting off rivet heads. The only thing you have to careful of is to not burn through the frame. If you cut the heads off on the bracket side the brackets will make it easier to keep the torch from damaging the frame. I'm still always careful not to go too deep. Here's how it looks with the brackets removed.

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Unfortunately in my case really only 1 hole out of the 6 I needed lined up. In the picture below you can see the bolt in the 1 hole and if you look closely you can see the 2 holes on the bottom that are just a little off.

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The brackets are set up for 2 options for location. The bolts are supposed to go in every other hole. As I mentioned there are 2 other holes that are close but the one furthest right is 2 holes away instead of just 1. You will notice in the picture above with no bracket there are already quite a few holes/slots and I didn't want to add anymore.

I ended up cutting the third nut off the backing strap so that I could drill out and use the 2 holes that were close. The top 3 holes had to be drilled out from scratch.

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You can see in that picture above, the 2 existing top holes line up correctly except that they are too low. I had to drill 5 new holes in both sides. Also the top holes were close enough to the frame that I had to trim down the backing strap.

Before:
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After:
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The other side worked out the same way.

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And here they are all installed.

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Hopefully next weekend I can get the rear hanger installed in the frame. Should be a little easier than the front. My son has basketball games on Saturdays for the next month so I'm only working on Sundays. Planning to do things in single steps so I can get the axle installed in one weekend.

Here are a few good pics from 54inches that show the difference in mounting holes.

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I know I'm way late in the game here but not sure if you are familiar with a scarfing Tip for your torch, might help in the future for cutting rivit heads to minimize damage to your brackets


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I know I'm way late in the game here but not sure if you are familiar with a scarfing Tip for your torch, might help in the future for cutting rivit heads to minimize damage to your brackets
Indirectly yes I knew those tips existed but not what they're called. I should just get one and be done with it. I'd also like a rose bud tip (I think that's what it's called).
 
The purpose of a rosebud is heating your material they work well if you want to get a piece of iron cherry red and don't want to risk cutting the steel like you might with a regular torch head, defiantly can be handy at times
 
That would be great. Takes forever to heat metal with regular tip we use.
 
Stepping up on the front bumper this evening and it moved, a lot. All the bolts on the driver side are missing! :doah:

I think in hindsight I may have only put "temporary" bolts and nuts on thinking I was going to be finishing the top and never did. I noticed the bolts and nuts still on the bumper were not my usual metal pinch nuts.:dunno:
 
I did notice last time I drove the truck the grill guard was moving a lot. I thought was odd because it looked like I practically had death wobble but there was nothing wrong with the steering. Now I know why.

I got the air lines and solenoid all setup for the ARB.

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The yellow arrow points to the braided steel running from the air tank to the solenoid manifold. It's a 20ft -4 AN line intended for nitrous.

The orange arrow indicates the standard ARB blue line from the solenoid to the HD airline kit that ORD included with the ARB.

The white arrow points to the HD airline itself. I'll get pics of its routing once the locker is installed.
 
Christ, I need to clean up my big cable wiring. I added everything a little bit at a time over the last 3 years and now it looks like a spaghetti mess!

On another note I scored an awesome deals on 4 tires. 37" Nitto Terra Grapplers with about 1000 miles on them. Guy had them listed on craigslist for $900 which I thought was a good price but I didn't have the money what with the ARB install. Then a week later I see he dropped them to $600 and I had to figure out a way to come up with the money. Luckily the other buyers flaked so they were still available when I had the money together.

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This is by far my best tire deal. New these would have been almost $1600.
 
Damn! Sweet deal! I want those tires on my '12. But obviously in a smaller size! Lol
We had Terra Grapplers on a Super Duty a few years ago and they seemed like good tires.

I'm thinking about finding another set of 17" wheels and mounting the new tires on them. Then swap out tires depending on what I'm going to be doing. At least do that until I figure out if I have the alignment issue fixed so I don't trash another pair of tires.
 
ARB is installed! Can you see it?

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I had a shop do it so no pictures of the guts unfortunately.

Here's how the air line is routed to the housing:

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The green dots follow the air line. The penetration into the diff housing is behind the vent tube so as to not get hit by the assist cylinder. It curves back and up to a clamp (zip tie right now) on the engine crossmember. I need to RTI ramp it and check that I have enough line, there's a little more slack I can feed through the clamp if needed.

Having the big air tank to supply it makes actuating the locker a little anti-climatic. Most others I've seen on the trail have the little compressor so that when they actuate the locker you can hear the compressor run for a couple seconds. With my set up there's nothing, just the click of the switch; no fan fair. When you disengage you do get the hiss of air escaping at least.

I told my wife the ironic thing for my needs, the biggest feature I like about the ARB is NOT using it. I spent a lot of money to not use something! :haha::doah:
 
I told my wife the ironic thing for my needs, the biggest feature I like about the ARB is NOT using it. I spent a lot of money to not use something!:haha::doah:

Haha. This is awesome. I totally feel the same about my arb.
 
I just noticed the second picture shows real well the places I missed with paint on the tie rod & draglink.
 
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