CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I knew someone would toss that out there. 
I ran my 383/465/205 combo for years with 4.56's and 37's, I definitely would not recommend deeper axle gears than that with that tire size and no overdrive for extended highway time. It was fine, actually did pretty well, but 3000 RPM at 70 RPM is plenty.
For anyone searching this later, the mountain passes in CO are about as bad as it gets for altitude/necessity for deep gearing, I'd definitely want something higher (numerically lower) for straight highway driving. That, or an overdrive.
For anyone searching this later, the mountain passes in CO are about as bad as it gets for altitude/necessity for deep gearing, I'd definitely want something higher (numerically lower) for straight highway driving. That, or an overdrive.
x2!
All I was able to get done this weekend was the exhaust. Had to take care of 2 things with it. Of course we broke 2 of the studs that bolt the pipe flanges to the exhaust manifold. 2 more spun out of the exhaust manifold so I replaced those as well. The other issue was making clearance for the front driveshaft.
I don't know if I chose the easiest/best method for replace the broken studs. I was leery of pulling the exhaust manifold for fear of more broken bolts in that process. I drilled out the broken studs to 5/16" so I could re-cut the threads with a tap. It was a big pain in the ass tapping the holes but it worked. The entire time I was worried about breaking the tap, but luckily it held up.
In the end I had to buy 5 exhaust flange bolts after I f'd up one of them during the install. I found Advance Auto Parts had the 3/8"-16 x 3.5" studs I needed with spring and nut. The O'Reilly only had the sets with both 3.5" and 4.5" studs in the same package. The Auto Zone nearest me didn't have any of the SAE stuff, all metric.
I was able to modify the exhaust in the truck to clear the front drive shaft. I cut out the 90° elbow on passenger side.
I welded on those 2 small square-tube pieces on so I didn't loose the correct location to bolt up to the exhaust manifold. Made sure to put good solid tacks on. Also just hold the support pieces in place to where they are just touching. If you try to force them in place or clamp them at an odd angle the pieces are going to move when the old stuff is cut out. Here's the final product:
Cutting the corner at a 45° angle gave me just enough additional clearance for the driveshaft up-travel without getting too close to the transmission.
I don't know if I chose the easiest/best method for replace the broken studs. I was leery of pulling the exhaust manifold for fear of more broken bolts in that process. I drilled out the broken studs to 5/16" so I could re-cut the threads with a tap. It was a big pain in the ass tapping the holes but it worked. The entire time I was worried about breaking the tap, but luckily it held up.
In the end I had to buy 5 exhaust flange bolts after I f'd up one of them during the install. I found Advance Auto Parts had the 3/8"-16 x 3.5" studs I needed with spring and nut. The O'Reilly only had the sets with both 3.5" and 4.5" studs in the same package. The Auto Zone nearest me didn't have any of the SAE stuff, all metric.
I was able to modify the exhaust in the truck to clear the front drive shaft. I cut out the 90° elbow on passenger side.
I welded on those 2 small square-tube pieces on so I didn't loose the correct location to bolt up to the exhaust manifold. Made sure to put good solid tacks on. Also just hold the support pieces in place to where they are just touching. If you try to force them in place or clamp them at an odd angle the pieces are going to move when the old stuff is cut out. Here's the final product:
Cutting the corner at a 45° angle gave me just enough additional clearance for the driveshaft up-travel without getting too close to the transmission.
I also put on my good bowtie for the grill. I had this on the General; it was an ebay purchase.
I'm not sure what vehicle it is off of, but it's much bigger than the factory emblem would have been for this truck. I also think it looks nicer. Here's an angle you can see the mounting surface for the original bowtie and how much bigger this one is.
It's probably 1/2" bigger all the way around. Here's a comparison pic I found
Subtle difference but now to me that original bowtie just looks too small.
I'm not sure what vehicle it is off of, but it's much bigger than the factory emblem would have been for this truck. I also think it looks nicer. Here's an angle you can see the mounting surface for the original bowtie and how much bigger this one is.
It's probably 1/2" bigger all the way around. Here's a comparison pic I found
Subtle difference but now to me that original bowtie just looks too small.
Probably off of a Top Kick...
Funny thing is I don't even remember why I decided to buy it. I think it was one of those things where I was searching around ebay looking for whatever, it was cheap and I thought it would be cool. 
Funny thing is I don't even remember why I decided to buy it. I think it was one of those things where I was searching around ebay looking for whatever, it was cheap and I thought it would be cool.
Reason enough, in my opinion!
Funny thing is I don't even remember why I decided to buy it. I think it was one of those things where I was searching around ebay looking for whatever, it was cheap and I thought it would be cool.
It's the small things that make the difference on these rigs
. When I painted my rig the flat black, I think I spent about 35 min's just tapping off the chevy emblem on my grill 
. But I think it makes a huge difference. I think yours looks way cool too. Like I said....it's the little things!
I told my wife that you have to do some things just because it's fun or the whole project becomes too much like work.
Amen to that!
Forgot to post the patch job I did on the exhaust where the some one had done a crap-ass job welding the exhaust together. It was a pile of chicken ****. I tried to grid it down and plug weld the holes but there wasn't enough metal left.
Wish I'd have gotten "before" pictures. It was just another example of previous owner crap work.
Wish I'd have gotten "before" pictures. It was just another example of previous owner crap work.
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Okay, I think I have my steering issues licked. The problem I had was that the drag link end on the pitman arm was hitting the high steer tie rod after just a couple inches of suspension compression.
To solve it, I got one of these taper inserts from PolyPerformance.com
I drilled out the drag link end's hole in the pitman arm with a 13/16" drill bit as instructed. The interesting/annoying thing was that they designed it for a "sloppy" hole assuming it was going to drilled in-place in a vehicle with a standard handheld drill. The adapter was developed for use on a Jeep steering knuckle to allow the drag link to be moved to the top of the knuckle. They assume the person isn't going to remove the knuckle to drill the hole.
I on the other hand was able to clamp the pitman arm in a drill press to drill the hole.
This resulted in a nearly perfect hole which turned out to be too small for the adapter. They want the hole to be in the range of 0.845"-0.875" ideally, but not more than 0.88". The bit was a 13/16" which is 0.8125" and the hold I drilled calipered out at about 0.82".
I was able to get the adapter in with a press, but the tie rod end (TRE) wouldn't seat deep enough into the pitman arm. I could only get about half of the castle nut threaded on, and nowhere near close enough to put the cotter pin in.
I tried to use a dremmel to clear out more diameter in the hole. This would allow the adapter to spread out a little which in turn will let the TRE seat deeper into the hole. The dremmel bit wasn't working nearly fast enough so I decided to re-drill the hole with a 7/8" bit since that is slightly less than 0.88". The hole ended up right at the 0.88" they listed as the maximum. I installed the TRE and torqued it to 60ft-lbs and it seated perfectly.
Still need to get the cotter pin in, but I'm very happy with how it turned out. I have just enough clearance to the frame and now the TRE on the pitman arm is nowhere near the tie rod.
Feels really good to have the steering where I want it.
To solve it, I got one of these taper inserts from PolyPerformance.com
I drilled out the drag link end's hole in the pitman arm with a 13/16" drill bit as instructed. The interesting/annoying thing was that they designed it for a "sloppy" hole assuming it was going to drilled in-place in a vehicle with a standard handheld drill. The adapter was developed for use on a Jeep steering knuckle to allow the drag link to be moved to the top of the knuckle. They assume the person isn't going to remove the knuckle to drill the hole.
I on the other hand was able to clamp the pitman arm in a drill press to drill the hole.
This resulted in a nearly perfect hole which turned out to be too small for the adapter. They want the hole to be in the range of 0.845"-0.875" ideally, but not more than 0.88". The bit was a 13/16" which is 0.8125" and the hold I drilled calipered out at about 0.82".
I was able to get the adapter in with a press, but the tie rod end (TRE) wouldn't seat deep enough into the pitman arm. I could only get about half of the castle nut threaded on, and nowhere near close enough to put the cotter pin in.
I tried to use a dremmel to clear out more diameter in the hole. This would allow the adapter to spread out a little which in turn will let the TRE seat deeper into the hole. The dremmel bit wasn't working nearly fast enough so I decided to re-drill the hole with a 7/8" bit since that is slightly less than 0.88". The hole ended up right at the 0.88" they listed as the maximum. I installed the TRE and torqued it to 60ft-lbs and it seated perfectly.
Still need to get the cotter pin in, but I'm very happy with how it turned out. I have just enough clearance to the frame and now the TRE on the pitman arm is nowhere near the tie rod.
Feels really good to have the steering where I want it.
Doesn't look like you could have gotten it any better. Easy enough solution.
Forgot to post the patch job I did on the exhaust where the some one had done a crap-ass job welding the exhaust together. It was a pile of chicken ****. I tried to grid it down and plug weld the holes but there wasn't enough metal left.
Wish I'd have gotten "before" pictures. It was just another example of previous owner crap work.
That sounds like what was on my Tracker when I got it. Previous owner wanted a louder exhaust so someone at a "race shop" hacked off the resonator and stock muffler along with half the stock hangars. It was replaced with a cheapo turbo muffler, no hangars, what may have been electrical conduit pipe, and lots of ****ty, hole filled, crappy welding that didn't go all the way around the pipe.
The whole tailpipe fell off an hour into a road trip and the shop I limped to was aghast.
Ended up replacing the whole assembly.
Yes, I'm glad it all worked out. And that I happened to have a "taller" draglink from a previous setup.
You could tell they were trying to weld the top of the pipe from underneath with it still in the truck. And it was all trying to fill a large gap. I figured that out when I tried my spot welds to plug holes and after grinding some of the chicken poop down there wasn't really anything left to weld to and I was just making bigger holes.
So I'll sign you up for one of my "Previous Owner Seeking Missiles" after desertrat67 and I start production.
Sign me up!
I just keep hoping the bad karma catches up to him.
I just keep hoping the bad karma catches up to him.
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